But as at Kenlochewe, so at Talladale, Loch Maree itself supplies the most charming expeditions. These may be taken either by the steamer or by hired boats.
The steamer is timed so as to give those staying at the Loch Maree Hotel, Talladale, the opportunity of visiting Tollie bay soon after breakfast. A short stay is permitted in the lovely nook where Tollie pier has been erected; and the return voyage to Talladale is accomplished by noon. The visitor on returning from Tollie may, instead of landing at Talladale, proceed at once to Ru Nohar, at the head of Loch Maree, and after spending an hour there may return by the steamer and be again landed at Talladale about or before three p.m.; or this excursion may be made apart from and on a different day to the voyage to Tollie and back. Either way luncheon should be taken to Ru Nohar, as there is scarcely time to visit the Kenlochewe Hotel for that purpose. This expedition is described in [Part IV., chap. xiii].
The boating excursions from the Loch Maree Hotel, Talladale, are almost endless. The shores of Loch Maree, within a distance of four or five miles from the hotel, may be best surveyed and examined from a boat. It is usually the angler who adopts this means of locomotion, but those who are sketching or seeking for fresh points of view will find a boat equally suitable.
Chapter X.
Excursions from Gairloch.
The following drives may be taken from the Gairloch Hotel.
1. To any of the places on the road on the south side of the Gairloch (see "[Tables of distances]"). Leaving the county road at the Kerry bridge, an estate road strikes off to the right, and passes picturesque natural birch woods, with a fine view of Bathais or Bus Bheinn over the moorland to the left. In the narrow ravine as we approach Shieldaig is an interesting "junction" of the Archæan gneiss and the Cambrian conglomerate. It is described in [Part III., chap. ix]. At Shieldaig is the pretty lodge leased by Mr J. Bateson, the Marquis of Bristol, and Mr A. Hamond. The garden is brilliant with choice flowers, even as seen from the road. Shieldaig is placed in a secluded little bay called Loch Shieldaig, in which are two islands. The road ascends, and a mile further the hamlet of Leac nan Saighead lies to the right. Close to the shore at Leac nan Saighead may still be seen the spot where Donald Odhar and his brother Iain Odhar concealed themselves and nearly four hundred yards away is Fraoch Eilean, or "the heather island," where so many of the M'Leods were slain by the arrows of those Macrae heroes ([Part I., chap. xii.]). Kenneth Fraser, who has probably as large a store of the old traditions and legends of Gairloch as any other inhabitant, lives at Leac nan Saighead. The road now strikes inland, and skirts Loch Badachro, at the north-western corner of which the rocky Badachro river leaves the loch for its short course to the sea. It is a remarkably picturesque little river, with its rocky bed and banks, and its overhanging trees. The fishing of the loch and river are let with Shieldaig. Passing the farmhouse of Badachro we soon come in sight of the village of Badachro, at the head of an almost landlocked bay shut in by islands, one of them the considerable Eilean Horisdale or Thorisdale, so called after the Norse god Thor. The Dry Island is joined to the mainland at low tide. Here are two fish-curing stations, Badachro being the centre of the important cod-fishery of Gairloch ([Part II., chap. ix.]). After leaving Badachro the road again strikes inland, and passes a loch, fully half a mile in length, called Loch Bad na h' Achlais. Another mile brings us to the straggling village of Port-Henderson; and again another mile over a rugged and boulder-bestrewed moor and we are on the sandy hill overlooking the pretty bay of Opinan, where there is a fine sandy beach. On the headland between Port-Henderson and Opinan is the Uamh nam Freiceadain (mentioned in [Part I., chaps. xii.] and [xxi].). A short distance to the north of this place there is on the seashore a large cave, which is worth a visit; it is called Uamh an Oir. It has a fine entrance; it branches off right and left; the branch to the left can be followed for about forty yards, that to the right is not so deep. In the village of Opinan are the board school and volunteer armoury, the latter an iron house. A little beyond the village, to the south, is the new Free church, which is a mission church or chapel-of-ease in connection with the parent Free church of Gairloch. It is a plain and substantial building of recent erection. You cannot drive further than South Erradale, but the road beyond is well worth exploration on foot. Some of the inhabitants can point out the green spot in a hollow where the two Macleod fratricides were slain and buried ([page 26]). The village of South Erradale, with its stream called the Red River, is about a mile beyond Opinan. Two of the dwelling-houses are built of turf. At the upper end of the crofts are the Garradh Iaruinn, or "iron dyke," and other evidences of bog iron (see [page 87]). About three miles further we come to the farm of Point, or Red Point, where is also much bog iron. Along all this route are magnificent views of the Torridon mountains, of the island of Rona, and of the shores and mountains of Skye, which last are much nearer and more plainly seen than from the Gairloch Hotel. The rocky coast, with the primitive houses of the people, the rough moorland, and the background of rugged mountains, give to this expedition the charm of great wildness. Your charioteer can rest his horses at Opinan or South Erradale whilst you walk further on.
2. To any of the places on the road running along the north side of the Gairloch (see "[Tables of distances]"). This expedition may be done by carriage as far as Melvaig. Leaving the Gairloch Hotel by the county road going in the direction of Poolewe we turn off to the left at Achtercairn. Passing the police-station and the board school on the right, we are quickly on the sea-shore. Turn to the right, and cross the curious narrow wooden bridge over the Achtercairn river or burn. To the right, a little way from the road, is the manse of Gairloch ([Part I., chap. xvi.]), and then the fishing village of Strath or Smithstown is entered, at the back of which there was formerly much bog iron. There are two good merchants' shops, a boat-building yard, several shoemakers' shops, and a meal-mill. The straggling village of Lonmor lies to the right of and above the road after we pass Strath. Here plenty of bog iron is still to be met with ([Part I. chap. xx.]). Except for the views of the Gairloch, with Skye in the distance, the road is now uninteresting for a mile or two. It bends to the north at Carn Dearg House (Mr Corson), which is a peculiar building, close to the road, with an enormous red-tiled roof. Below the house is a low rocky cliff, of a reddish colour. About a mile inland are the Sitheanan Dubha, or "fairies' hills."
A little beyond Carn Dearg is a fine sandy bay, and half a mile from the shore is the island of Longa. It is more than a mile in length; in ancient times it was a retreat of the Norse vikings ([Part I., chap. i.]). From Carn Dearg the road strikes inland due north, passing the farm of Little Sand on the left, and beyond that again around a large sandy bay the village called Big Sand. Among the first sandhills you come to on the farm of Little Sand may be seen some thin pans of bog iron ([Part I., chap. xx.]). More than a mile further on, close to the new board school, the road bends again towards the west. The hill to the right is Meall na Glaice Daraich (522 feet), and then further on, to the left between the road and the sea, lies the township of North Erradale. The building near the road, with its clump of trees, was formerly the schoolhouse; it is now used as a place of worship. Among the crofts of North Erradale some remains of bog iron pans are met with ([Part I., chap. xx.]). At the shore, below the village, is a rocky cove enclosing a shingly beach, where the people keep their boats.