Of walks and strolls there are many. Rambles on the west shore of Loch Ewe, or about the township of Londubh, or to Inveran farm and bridge, or to the splendid points of view of Loch Maree above Tollie, are all replete with interest. The old track continued from Tollie pier along the south-west side of Loch Maree is well worth following for a mile or more. Expeditions for angling purposes to any lochs which are open to those staying at Poolewe Inn furnish additional walks. There is a walk from Poolewe Inn to Craig Bhan which I particularly recommend. Cross Poolewe bridge; turn to the right, and follow the Inveran road (as if you were going to Fionn Loch). It is about a mile to the first small detached strip of natural birch wood just opposite the house (on the other side of the river) furthest away from Poolewe. Craig Bhan is the low hill that rises close above the road on the side you are on. Near the top, about one hundred and fifty yards from the road, you will find on the one hand a magnificent view of Loch Maree, and in the other direction of Loch Ewe. I know no finer point of view in the district. One of the brochs, or Pictish round houses ([Part I., chap. xxi.]), is to be seen on Craig Bhan.
Chapter XII.
Excursions from Aultbea.
Three drives are recommended to be taken from Aultbea.
1. To Mellon Charles.—After leaving Aultbea Inn the road crosses the burn, which gives its name to the place, and after passing the post-office, and further on the Free church and its manse, reaches Aird House, on the promontory which forms the bay and is called Aird Point. The tiny hamlet below Aird is called Cuilchonich. Further on the village of Buaile na luib is reached, with its board school. The road now becomes rough, and the rest of the journey may perhaps be better accomplished on foot. The first village after leaving Buaile na luib is called Ormiscaig, and then the township of Mellon Charles is entered, with its sandy beach. It is an interesting Highland place, and, like Cove on the opposite side of Loch Ewe, gives one the idea of being near the end of the world. There are fairy stories connected with this neighbourhood (see [Part II., chap. xiii.]). Above the village rises Craig an Fhithich Mhor, or "the great raven's crag," 395 feet in height. The rocky coast on either side of Mellon Charles contains some fine caves inhabited by blue-rock pigeons. This excursion may perhaps be better made on foot.
2. To Mellon Udrigil.—Take the road leading north-east from Aultbea. On the left is Tighnafaolinn, a straggling township on the hillside. On the right, after crossing the burn, is the hamlet of Badfearn. The road ascends for about a mile and a half. On both sides are rough moorland, with moraines of ancient glaciers. Soon after passing the brow of the hill the road descends to Laide House, a small but neat dwelling, with a few trees about it, noticeable more for their present rarity in this part of the country than for any merits of their own. The straggling village of Laide, or more fully the Laide of Udrigil, is now entered. The first building, on the left, was used as a place of worship some few years ago, but has been lately unroofed. A little distance from the road, to the right, is the board school. At the merchant's shop turn to the left, leaving the ruin of the ancient chapel to the right below. The road is rather rough, but quite passable. For about a mile it runs along the top of low cliffs; the picturesque salmon station of Mr Hogarth, of Aberdeen, is seen on a small promontory. The curious red cliffs (the only trias hereabouts, [Part III., chap. ix.]), the picturesque ridges of rock jutting into the sea, and the salmon station itself, are well worth an exploration on foot. The road descends as it passes round the base of the hill called Meallan Udrigil (298 feet), and then ascends, passing Udrigil House, a little way above which is the hamlet of Achagarve. The road now strikes somewhat inland, behind the hill called Meall nam Meallan (478 feet). On the left is the Loch of the Beast, the haunt of the celebrated water-kelpie ([Part II., chap. xiii.]). A mile further, through a narrow pass, we enter the little village of Mellon Udrigil, with its board school, which, though small, is sufficient for the place. An examination of the village, and a stroll on the sands, will be found interesting. Meall nam Meallan forms a series of fine cliffs along the coast to the south of Mellon Udrigil. During the whole of the drive from Laide there have been magnificent views of the hills and islands around and within the bay of Gruinard. On a fine day, at any time of the year, these views are enchanting. It was from Mellon Udrigil that the vision of the great fleet, with boats manned by red-jackets, was seen ([Part II., chap. xv.]). The bay of Gruinard, or Loch Gruinard, is described in a separate chapter by Mr Jolly.
