Perhaps its leading characteristic is the frequent contrasts it exhibits between barren, often precipitous, rocks and mountains on the one hand, and calm lochs, smiling woods, or richly-coloured moors on the other. The unconscious, or unanalysed, impressions of these contrasts produce the most pleasing effects on the spectator's mind and feelings.
The Rev. Mr Small refers to the charms of contrast, exemplified in the scenery of Loch Maree, thus:—
"In rugged grandeur by the placid lake,
Rise the bold mountain cliffs, sublimely rude;
A pleasing contrast, each with each, they make,
And when in such harmonious union viewed,
Each with more powerful charms appears imbued.
Even thus it is, methinks, with mingling hearts,
Though different far in nature and in mood,
A blessed influence each to each imparts,
Which softens and subdues, yet weakens not, nor thwarts."
The derivation of the name Maree from St Maelrubha is discussed and conclusively established by Dr Mitchell ([Part II., chap. xi].). Other references to the loch incidentally occur in several parts of this book.
At Tollie pier (erected 1883) we step on board the little steamer, and commence the tour of the loch. It will be more convenient to describe the left or north-east shore on our way up the loch, and the other side on the return voyage. As the steamer leaves Tollie pier the Fox Point (Gallicé, Rudha mhadaidh ruaidh) is seen on the left. It is a low and small promontory, terminating in grey-white rocks, deriving its name from some story of a fox closely pursued by dogs taking to the water here, or from some fox of unusual size being killed at the place.
Observe the extreme clearness of the water of Loch Maree. Owing to the rocky and gravelly nature of the bed and shores of the loch, its waters never acquire that dark peaty tinge which characterises the water of Loch Katrine. The Fox Point has long been the resort of persons suffering from various ailments, who have come to drink of the marvellously pure water of the loch, which is, or was, believed to possess valuable health-restoring qualities ([Part II., chap. xiii.]). The traveller casually tasting Loch Maree water, especially in the summer when it is slightly warmed by the sun, may be disappointed with its flavour, or rather want of flavour, and may think it lacking in freshness. Remember that the fresh sparkle of much spring water, so agreeable to the palate, is due to a certain amount of mineral or other impurity.
Behind, or to the north of, the Fox Point the River Ewe leaves Loch Maree. Here are Inveran House and Inveran farm (Miss Maclennan), situated on the estate of Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, to whom both sides of the River Ewe and, as we shall see, most of the shores of Loch Maree belong, as well as all its islands and the sole right to the salmon and sea-trout fishings, not only of the loch but also of the river and contiguous sea.
This end of Loch Maree has its Ossianic legend ([Part I., chap. i.]). "The sweetheart's stepping-stones" are said to have been placed in their present position in the water near the Fox Point by Fingal himself; they render the navigation difficult to those ignorant of their localities.
