Penrhyn Castle,
The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The present castle is said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog, prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in possession of the Welsh sovereigns. This ancient demesne has been a favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times.
Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme,
Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream,
And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest,
Shews on its wide domain a regal crest;
Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days,
And with maternal pride, the page displays—
Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace
From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.
The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married the present respected possessor. The lady with whose hand so wealthy a dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon. E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of the Duke and Duchess of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most complete edifices in the kingdom. It is erected in the boldest style of castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with angular turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also extremely elegant. The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and mountain scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the whole. A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high, and seven miles in circuit.
There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths. The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale. The building has a handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material. Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. The park is fenced with narrow upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.
In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing. It is a large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own name and family engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. In the royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the purpose of public or private libations. The first was y corn ydd yuo y brenin, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, corn cyweithas, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty; and third, corn y pencynydd, committed to the custody of the chief huntsman. On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of the sacred potion, similar to the wassail bowl, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a vessel, drinking a health, Deo et sancto Petro (to God and St. Peter). On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly drained.
The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and important. The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working population. About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows, well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated, neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods.
Slate Quarries.
The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. The rock has been opened at vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and enterprise. There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discovered so far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 the slates were all of one size, and very small. But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an iron railway from the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to have cost £170,000. The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in these quarries amount to about £1700.
On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing out the wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the intelligent and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he may have experienced in finding him.