The landlords build the farm houses at their own expense. They are generally mean, low huts, into which a person must enter in a bending posture; and if he have not a guide (unless he be acquainted with the windings of the fabric,) he will scarcely find the apartment occupied by the family, they and their cattle being, for the most part, inhabitants of the same building[7]. They have the fire in the middle of the house. The beds are commonly like those of ships, with sliding doors. A table, a pot, and some stools, are the principal furniture to be seen.
Whether there were any chests, presses, cupboards, &c. in any of the huts which I visited, the continual smoke would not admit being ascertained. It is evident, however, that they are exempt from the window tax, as they have only a small hole besides that of the chimney, on which is a door to shut and open occasionally.
The office-houses (where there are any) are truly despicable. These the tenants build at their own expense, and in the cheapest manner they can, on account of the uncertainty of their tenure.
Here are few inclosures, so that the land lies almost wholly in open fields; and by this breach of agricultural economy their crops are exposed to the ravages of the numerous sheep, cattle, &c. which feed on the commons without herdsmen.
These islanders trade chiefly to Leith, London, and Hamburgh; and with Dutch fishermen, and such ships as visit their coasts. The chief exports are linen and woollen yarn, rugs, stockings, butter, dried fish, herrings, oil, feathers, skins of various kinds, and kelp; the manufacture of which was first commenced in 1780. The commodities imported are corn, oatmeal, spirits, tobacco, lines and hooks, salt, &c.
Here the Greenland ships are frequently served with mittens, night-caps, comforters, wigs, &c.
The inhabitants are sure to come with their boats alongside such ships as happen to call in here. They bring with them fish, fowl, eggs, &c. for which they get beef, pork, flour, meal, or such provisions as they may wish to have. They choose rather to barter than sell for money, probably for this reason, that they generally get more than the value of their commodities; at least, they do not fail to ask plenty, and have cunning enough to lay down their case as very deplorable, which tends to excite in the breasts of commanders of vessels that sympathy which is so peculiar to sailors. The Shetlanders, by these means, find a very good market for such things as they have to dispose of, and generally get as much meat and drink as they can take while on board.
The Shetland Isles are divided into twelve parishes, in which are placed twelve ministers, the office of some of whom is very laborious, there being different small islands in one parish: besides, the paths are remarkably bad, and the people so wretchedly poor, that they cannot afford to accommodate their pastor in times of public examinations, visitations, &c. insomuch, that unless he carry with him, on those occasions, some store of viaticum, he must content himself with the soothing hope of a hearty meal on his return home.
These islands enjoy the advantage of parochial schoolmasters, having the salaries allowed on the Scottish establishment; by which means the inhabitants are all taught to read, write, and understand arithmetic; and among those of any rank, the Latin, Greek, and French languages are not unknown, as also the rudiments of the mathematics.