The thirteenth, I reached the first Spring of Pemæoncock, having crossed the River four times that day, by reason of its many windings; but the water was so shallow, that it hardly wet my horses pasterns. Here a little under the surface of the earth, I found flat pieces of petrified matter, of one side solid Stone, but on the other side Isinglas, which I easily peeled off in flakes about four inches square: several of these pieces, with a transparent Stone like Crystal that cut Glass, and a white Marchasite that I purchased of the Indians, I presented to Sir Wiliam Berkley Governour of Virginia.
The fourteenth of March, from the top of an eminent hill, I first descried the Apalatæan Mountains, bearing due West to the place I stood upon: their distance from me was so great, that I could hardly discern whether they were Mountains or Clouds, until my Indian fellow travellers prostrating themselves in Adoration, howled out after a barbarous manner, Okée pœze, i. e. God is nigh.
The fifteenth of March, not far from this hill, passing over the South-branch of Rappahanock-river, I was almost swallowed in a Quicksand. Great herds of Red and Fallow Deer I daily saw feeding; and on the hill-sides, Bears crashing Mast like Swine. Small Leopards I have seen in the Woods, but never any Lions, though their skins are much worn by the Indians. The Wolves in these parts are so ravenous, that I often in the night feared my horse would be devoured by them, they would gather up and howl so close round about him, though Tether’d to the same tree at whose foot I my self and the Indians lay: but the Fires which we made, I suppose, scared them from worrying us all. Beaver and Otter I met with at every River that I passed; and the Woods are full of Grey Foxes.
Thus I travelled all the sixteenth; and on the seventeenth of March I reached the Apalatæi. The Air here is very thick and chill; and the waters issuing from the Mountain-sides, of a Blue colour, and Allumish taste.
The eighteenth of March, after I had in vain assayed to ride up, I alighted, and left my horse with one of the Indians, whilst with the other two I climbed up the Rocks, which were so incumbred with bushes and brambles, that the ascent proved very difficult: besides, the first precipice was so steep, that if I lookt down, I was immediately taken with a swimming in my head; though afterwards the way was more easie. The height of this Mountain was very extraordinary: for notwithstanding I set out with the first appearance of light, it was late in the evening before I gained the top, from whence the next morning I had a beautiful prospect of the Atlantick-Ocean washing the Virginian-shore; but to the North and West, my sight was suddenly bounded by Mountains higher than that I stood upon. Here did I wander in Snow, for the most part, till the Four and twentieth day of March, hoping to finde some passage through the Mountains; but the coldness of the Air and Earth together, seizing my Hands and Feet with numbness, put me to a ne plus ultra; and therefore having found my Indian at the foot of the Mountain with my Horse, I returned back by the same way that I went.
The Second Expedition,
From the Falls of Powhatan, aliàs James-River, in Virginia, to Mahock in the Apalatæan Mountains.
The twentieth of May 1670, one Major Harris and my self, with twenty Christian Horse, and five Indians, marched from the Falls of James-River, in Virginia, towards the Monakins; and on the Two and twentieth were welcomed by them with Volleys of Shot. Near this Village we observed a Pyramid of stones piled up together, which their Priests told us, was the Number of an Indian Colony drawn out by Lot from a Neighbour-Countrey over-peopled, and led hither by one Monack, from whom they take the Name of Monakin. Here enquiring the way to the Mountains, an ancient Man described with a staffe two paths on the ground; one pointing to the Mahocks, and the other to the Nahyssans; but my English Companions slighting the Indians direction, shaped their course by the Compass due West, and therefore it fell out with us, as it does with those Land-Crabs, that crawling backwards in a direct line, avoid not the Trees that stand in their way, but climbing over their very tops, come down again on the other side, and so after a days labour gain not above two foot of ground. Thus we obstinately pursuing a due West course, rode over steep and craggy Cliffs, which beat our Horses quite off the hoof. In these Mountains we wandred from the Twenty fifth of May till the Third of June, finding very little sustenance for Man or Horse; for these places are destitute both of Grain and Herbage.
The third of June we came to the South-branch of James-River, which Major Harris observing to run Northward, vainly imagined to be an Arm of the Lake of Canada; and was so transported with this Fancy, that he would have raised a Pillar to the Discovery, if the fear of the Mahock Indian, and want of food, had permitted him to stay. Here I moved to cross the River and march on; but the rest of the Company were so weary of the enterprize, that crying out, One and All, they had offered violence to me, had I not been provided with a private Commission from the Governour of Virginia to proceed, though the rest of the company should abandon me; the sight of which laid their fury.
The lesser Hills, or Akontshuck, are here unpassable, being both steep and craggy: the Rocks seemed to me at a distance to resemble Eggs set up an end.