Discoveries in Australia, Volume 1. / With an Account of the Coasts and Rivers Explored and Surveyed During / The Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in the Years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. / By Command of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. Also a Narrative / Of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits to the Islands in the Arafura Sea.

by John Lort Stokes

WANT OF WATER.

Our stock of water being now much reduced, it was necessary before proceeding further, that we should procure a supply. As it was a matter of no certainty that we should find sufficient on the coast to the westward, it was at first suggested that we should take the ship up the Adelaide and fill the tanks from alongside. This would have been a grand feat, having never before been accomplished in any river in Australia. Indeed it was the only one on the whole continent, which could carry up a vessel of the Beagle's draught into fresh water. An idea, the realization of which would so completely crown our exploration with success, naturally gave rise to a great degree of enthusiasm and excitement. Soon, however, more sober thoughts prevailed, when we reflected on the time this proceeding would consume, on account of the tortuous* course of the river: time which we could, with our scanty stock of provisions, ill spare. At Port Essington it was possible we should be able to get a supply of both, as a ship might have arrived during our absence. Moreover it was highly important, that we should make known without delay, the discovery of a river of such magnitude as the Adelaide, distant only seventy miles from the settlement.

(*Footnote. Nothing shows the flat nature of a country more than the tortuous course of a stream passing through it. It is a want of change in the level, which causes a river to twist and wind about in search, as it were, of the weakest spot for its exit.)

RETURN TOWARDS PORT ESSINGTON.

It was then finally resolved that we should return to Port Essington, and in the forenoon of the 17th, the Beagle was drifting along the western shore of Dundas Strait, out of Van Diemen's Gulf. The day happening, very remarkably for the locality at this season, to be calm throughout, the anchor was dropped at sunset in 22 fathoms; Cape Fleming the North-East point of Melville Island, bearing North-West 1/2 West eight miles. A deep sandy bay bore South-West five miles, which promised good anchorage. The appearance of the north-east part of Melville Island was still very triste, presenting to the eye nothing save patches of mangroves, behind which rose a range of ill-defined hills, 300 feet in elevation.

(*Footnote. The tide out of Van Diemen's Gulf takes a North-West direction, until coming in contact with Cape Keith, it branches off along the east and south side of Melville Island.)

We anchored to prevent being taken back through Dundas Strait by the return tide, which from 5 P.M., to midnight, set South-East by South from two to three knots an hour. High-water at Popham Bay on the east side of the Strait being at a quarter past eleven, we may conclude the North-West stream began at this anchorage three quarters of an hour after high-water. Weighing as soon as the tide made out of the strait, although there was still no wind, we were rather surprised at daylight to find how little the ship had drifted to the North-North-West. The only reason I can give in explanation is that the ebb or North-West stream out of the gulf joins with, and is thrown out of its course by the easterly or ebb stream setting past Cape Fleming.

ARRIVAL AT THE PORT.

A breeze springing up late in the morning, we beat along the north side of the Cobourg Peninsula, entering Port Essington at dusk. In working round Vashon Head, we found the water shoal very rapidly to 12, 9, and 7 fathoms on approaching it; on the bearing South 30 degrees West. This head is fronted by a reef of some extent, which similar to the other at the entrance of Port Essington, cannot be distinguished, owing to the muddy colour of the water; it is therefore necessary that the lead should be kept constantly going when in its vicinity. When daylight broke, we found no fresh arrival to greet our anxious gaze, the Britomart being still the only guardian of the port. Her solitary aspect at once destroyed our hopes of supplies, and on reaching the settlement our fears proved to have too much foundation. Hope, however, is the last feeling which leaves the human breast, and in this instance did not desert us; as there was still a chance of a vessel arriving, while we were engaged in watering the ship.

VICTORIA THEATRE.