After touching at Swan River (where, finding His Excellency the Governor still absent, an account of our cruise was left with the Surveyor-General) we reached Koombanah Bay on the 27th. Mr. Forsyth, whom I had sent overland, had completed the survey of this anchorage, and Leschenault Inlet, which it joins in the south corner by a narrow boat channel. The wreck of a large whale ship in the head of the bay shows the folly of attempting to ride out the winter gales to which it is exposed; but this may be remedied by a breakwater thrown out from Point Casuarina, of which nature has laid the foundation in the reef that extends out across the bay in the desired direction. The strong outset from the estuary during the rainy season materially lessens the strain upon the cables of ships caught there by a gale. The peculiarity in the formation of this neighbourhood consists in some basaltic columns on the coast close to Point Casuarina.
We devoted the 28th to making observations,* etc.; and I was surprised to find that this part of the coast was laid down four miles too much to the northward.
(*Footnote. These observations were made on the beach, midway between Point Casuarina and the mouth of the estuary, which spot they place in latitude 33 degrees 19 minutes 10 seconds South and longitude 0 degrees 7 minutes 00 seconds West of Swan River. From a sandhill, 190 feet high, bearing South 11 degrees West, six-tenths of a mile from that spot, I found that the highest part of the Darling Range, Mount William, bore North 40 degrees 6 minutes East thirty-three miles, and was in height 1720 feet; and that Mount Leonard, another excrescence on this range bore South 81 degrees 44 minutes East distant thirteen miles and seven-tenths, and was of an elevation of 1270 feet; whilst the summit of Cape Naturaliste bore South 65 degrees West and the visible extreme South 66 degrees 50 minutes West which confirmed the error I had before remarked in the position assigned it in the chart, being four miles too far north. All the above bearings are true. The rise of the tide, and the time of high-water, are the same as at Swan River.
ARRIVE AT SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
Daylight, on the 29th, found us outside Koombanah Bay, running to the westward before a light land breeze. From the offing, this part of the western shore of the continent was much more prepossessing than any we had before seen. The outline of the Darling Range, here approaching within fourteen miles of the sea, and broken only by Mount Leonard and the gorge of the Harvey, was sharply pencilled against the eastern sky that glowed with the pure light of morning; whilst the country between was clothed with trees of such magnitude that their verdant summits could be seen, over the coast sandhills, stretching away in one sea of foliage as far as the eye could reach.
The course we held led us within five miles of the north side of Naturaliste Reef,* in 29 fathoms; the depth we found sixteen miles west of it was 60 fathoms, and half a mile south of it 26 fathoms. It partakes of the error in latitude previously discovered in Cape Naturaliste, which is distant sixteen miles, and bears, when over the centre of it, South 2 1/2 degrees West (true).
(*Footnote. A circular patch of breakers half a mile in extent, with, according to report, six and nine feet water on it.)
Being desirous of confirming our meridian distances along the south coast, we visited for the purpose King George's Sound and South Australia, at which latter place we arrived on the morning of January 26th, 1842. Since our former visit, a change had taken place in the governorship of the colony; and though it was with great regret that we learnt Colonel Gawler had left for England, we were glad he had found a worthy successor in our brother explorer Captain Grey.
His Excellency and the merchants expressing a wish that the Beagle should visit the port, no man of war having yet done so; and being anxious myself to examine the capabilities of the place, as well as to complete our survey of twenty-three miles of the eastern shore of Spencer's Gulf, on the afternoon of the 29th the Beagle was running into Port Adelaide.* The ladies of the Governor, the Surveyor-General, and others, honoured us with their presence on the passage round.**
(*Footnote. Besides the light vessel off the bar at Port Adelaide, a flagstaff close to the southward at the pilot station serves to point out the entrance to strangers.)