(*Footnote. My observations refer to this gentleman's new house, which they place in latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds South and longitude 9 degrees 36 minutes 22 seconds West of Sydney, by satisfactory meridian distances to the latter place, and from South Australia. Preferring Mr. Tyers' difference of longitude by triangulation to the east entrance point of the Glenelg River, 37 minutes 29 seconds, which is 1 minute 27 seconds more than his chronometric measurement; the mouth of the Glenelg will be 10 degrees 13 minutes 51 seconds West of Sydney. By Mr. Tyers' triangulation, calculated by Captain Owen Stanley from Port Phillip, Batman's Hill, with my longitude of the latter 6 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds West of Sydney, the Glenelg is West of Sydney 10 degrees 14 minutes 02 seconds, which is 57 seconds less than Mr. Tyers' calculation. The longitude of Sydney, by different observers, ranges between 151 degrees 12 minutes 0 seconds and 151 degrees 17 minutes 0 seconds; but, as I myself believe 151 degrees 16 minutes to be within a minute of the truth, the Glenelg will, accordingly, by my observations be in 141 degrees 02 minutes 09 seconds East and therefore within the New South Wales territory, the limit of which it had been supposed to mark. If the 141st degree had been selected as the boundary of the colony, with reference to the longitude of Sydney, there would not be much difficulty attending its determination.)
(**Footnote. The squatter, who often at great risk locates himself in a remote spot, and renders such essential service to the mother country by finding new lands, yea new homes, for the surplus population, merits much greater encouragement than he receives, particularly in instances similar to that of Mr. Henty, whose station at Portland was, for years, hundreds of miles removed from other occupied parts. This gentleman's case makes it clear at once that something ought to be done for the squatter. His comfortable house and garden he was obliged to leave to make room for a street of the new township; but this would not have been very hard had he been given an allotment in lieu; which, however, as I have stated, was not done; and he was compelled to witness the labour of his hands entirely swept away, and found himself, after years of toil, placed exactly in the same position with those who came to enjoy the fruits of his enterprise.
But the greatest hardship sustained by the squatter is the Special Survey system, according to which, anyone desirous to become a purchaser to the extent of twenty thousand acres may choose his land where he pleases. A party clubs together and finds out spots, that have been improved by squatters, with a view of purchasing them when able; many of these are often included in one special survey block: and even if the squatter is able to purchase the rich and hardly-won small patch he occupies, the special survey party, generally a knot of jobbers, have the preference. This is apparently for the benefit of the crown, twenty thousand pounds being thus added to the revenue under the pound per acre system; but it is certainly not advantageous to the country, as the large purchasers seldom buy for occupation, but for sale; and the smallholder, the squatter, is driven from the land in distress. I have seen instances of persons being utterly ruined in this way. My own opinion is, that the squatter ought to be allowed to purchase the land he occupies by private contract from government; or that an allowance should be made him, equivalent to his improvements.)
The detention we had experienced afforded me an opportunity of visiting the country; and having just seen between two and three hundred miles of the Province of South Australia, I was glad of the chance of comparing these two parts of the continent. Accordingly, after making a series of magnetical observations, and others for the errors of the chronometers, I left Portland one morning in company with Mr. Tyers. Taking Mr. Henty's road to the northward we soon passed the rich land surrounding Portland, and entered a stringybark forest, eight miles in extent. Then crossing a heathy tract we came to the Fitzroy, distant fifteen miles from Portland. Here, as elsewhere, the presence of water improves the soil, for along the banks of the river there was some good land. This was also the case near a hill just beyond it, called Mount Eckersley. where I saw Sir Thomas Mitchell's initials cut in a tree at the time when he explored this country, and found to his surprise that Mr. Henty had a station in Portland Bay.
EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR.
With the exception of the flats near the Crawford, twenty miles from the Fitzroy, the road lies through a poor country, until it approaches Mr. J. Henty's station, fifteen miles further. Here we appeared to have turned our backs on the bad land; and entered a tract of country in which the herbage is so excellent that an acre is capable of feeding one sheep, whereas in other parts three or four are required.
From a pointed hill, called the Sugarloaf, fifty-eight miles from Portland, I had an extensive view of this fertile district: the outlines of those magnificent mountains, the Victoria and Grampian ranges, that completed the distant part of the landscape, to the eastward, were distinctly defined against the clear morning sky; whilst, in the foreground, grassy round-topped hills, rose on either side of wide valleys sparingly dotted with trees, marking the course of the streams that meander through them, and the margin of the singular circular waterholes, with sides so steep as to render it necessary to cut through them to enable the cattle to drink, that were distributed around as if formed by art, rather than by nature. Westward, I saw the winding course of the Glenelg, and was told that some of the squatters had located themselves on its banks, and that others were even talking of stations (which they have since made) as far as the volcanic mountains, Schanck and Gambier, where there is some rich country, recently visited from Adelaide, by Governor Grey, who has discovered that the barrier of desert between New South Wales and South Australia, is less marked than was supposed; there being patches of good land intervening, so that at no very distant day, we may hope to see the whole of the coast, from Port Phillip to Spencer's Gulf, supporting a scattered white population.
I noticed that there was a vast superiority in the soil on the north-west side of the hills; but saw none equal in richness to the five-mile patch at Mount Eckersley.
The steep sides of a part of the valley of the Wannon, however, a few miles to the eastward of the Sugarloaf, are very fertile, and being clothed with patches of woodland, form extremely pretty scenery. The rocks of this part of the country are chiefly trappean; in the immediate neighbourhood of Portland, they consist of limestone, ferruginous sandstone, and trap.
CAPE BRIDGEWATER.