The result of 115 tidal observations, taken three miles within the entrance, gives 12 hours 06 minutes for the time of high-water on the full and change day. The rise of tide was irregular, the least being 4, and the greatest 10 feet. The highest noticed in the Beagle was during the neaps, caused by a strong North-West gale forcing the water into the river. The tides flow 5 hours 50 minutes, and ebb 6 hours 25 minutes, with a velocity varying from two to five miles an hour, according as the river is confined or open. The ebb-stream setting round Low Head into the bay to the eastward, is apt to drift vessels in that direction. Three miles in the offing the flood-stream runs from one to two knots to the West-North-West.
The position of the lighthouse on Low Head is as follows: latitude 41 degrees 03 minutes 26 seconds South, longitude 4 degrees 25 minutes 44 seconds West, of Sydney; or 146 degrees 50 minutes 16 seconds East of Greenwich, variation 10 degrees 05 minutes easterly. The light is elevated 140 feet above the sea-level, and may be seen, in clear weather, sixteen miles from the decks of small vessels, revolving once in fifty seconds.)
THE GLENNIE ISLES.
On December 19th both vessels left the Tamar; the Vansittart for Flinders Island, to land the unfortunate natives; whilst the Beagle crossed the strait to Wilson's Promontory, anchoring behind an island two miles long, trending north and south, with a hollow in the centre, forming a saddle, the highest part being 450 feet high. It is the northernmost of a group called the Glennie Islands, fronting the south-western face of the Promontory; and is strewn over with blocks of granite, which give it a castellated appearance. We did not find this anchorage very good, the depth being 20 fathoms, and the bottom sand over rock. Three small islets lie close to the south-west point, and a reef extends a cable's length off the northern. There is a passage nearly four miles wide, and 23 fathoms deep, between this part of Glennie's Group and the Promontory. The singular break in the high land on the latter, bearing East 1/2 North is a distant guide to the anchorage, in which the flood-tide sets to the northward, and when aided by the current, attains a strength of a knot and a half; the time of high-water, is a quarter of an hour later than at Refuge Cove.
We found on this, the largest of the group, a small black dog, that had been left behind by some visitor, recently I should say, from his anxiety to be taken on board, which was done. It was, also, on this island that the intrepid Bass met a number of runaway convicts, who had been treacherously left by their companions one night when asleep, the party being too large for the boat they had run away with from Sydney, with the intention of plundering the wreck of the Sydney Cove, at Preservation Island in Banks Strait. Thus they were actually the first to traverse this part of the Strait, which has received its name from the enterprising Mr. Bass.
CAPE LIPTRAP.
Leaving the Glennie Isles we examined the coast beyond Cape Liptrap;* and from thence made the best of our way to Western Port. There I availed myself of the kind offer of Mr. Anderson--a settler on the Bass River, who was going to Cape Patterson, to shoot wild cattle, the produce of the stock left behind when the old settlement was abandoned--to give Mr. Fitzmaurice, and a small party, conveyance in his bullock dray to that projection, for the purpose of determining its position. A party was also landed on the eastern entrance of Grant Island, to collect tidal observations.
(*Footnote. The next headland to Wilson's Promontory, from the extreme of which it bears North-West by West, twenty-four miles; the shore between recedes, forming a bay nine miles deep. The Cape lies in latitude 38 degrees 55 minutes South, longitude 5 degrees 17 minutes West of Sydney, 145 degrees 57 minutes East, and is the extreme of a tableland three hundred and fifty feet high. A small islet lies close to the shore, about two miles northward from the extreme, where there is a boat cove. Where the rocky coast ceases to the eastward, the shore falls back, affording shelter for vessels in north-west winds; a rock lies off the southern point of this anchorage.)
CORIO HARBOUR.
Having made these arrangements, we left for Port Phillip, where, after landing another party at Shortland's Bluff, also to make tidal observations, we pursued our course round Indented Head towards Corio Harbour, anchoring off Point Henry--where no less than four vessels were lading with wool for England--early on the morning of the 27th. We devoted the remainder of this day and the next to making a plan of the harbour; and from the result of our survey I feel more than ever convinced that the bar (through the northern part of which a channel winds for vessels of eight feet at low-water) might be removed, and the entrance rendered fit for vessels of any draught. There is deep water in the south-western part, close to the northern side of Geelong, where, by erecting wharfs, large ships might discharge alongside, an advantage which can never be obtained at Melbourne,* and of so great importance that I am induced to believe Geelong will ultimately be the capital of Australia Felix. In this event communication will be held with Melbourne by railroad, for which the country intervening is admirably adapted, being a complete level the entire way. At present a steamer plies daily between the two places; and when we consider that on our last visit, only two years before, Geelong consisted of a few sheds at its north end only, and now stretched across from Corio Harbour to the River Barwon, a space of more than a mile, the belief seems warranted that at no distant period the line of rail I allude to must be laid down. The township is now divided into North and South Geelong; the latter lies on a slope, reaching the river's edge.