The next day, it being our intention to reach Villa Rica before night, we set out at an early hour, notwithstanding the cold cloudy weather and the heavy dew which prevailed. We passed through a bare and uneven tract of country, presenting similar characteristics to those above described. Near a place called Capão, I rode down a hill covered with rich iron ore in such profusion, that tons might have been gathered from the surface. Proceeding a short distance farther, we arrived at a house, the owner of which, we afterwards understood, possessed a topaz-mine in the neighbourhood. The mention of a mine of topazes excited my curiosity, as it gave me the idea of a vein worked under-ground, and containing those substances in the matrix as originally formed. On expressing to the owner my desire to see the works, he kindly undertook to accompany me to the spot. After walking about half a mile up the mountain just mentioned, I was shown two breaks or slips, in which my guide informed me were the topaz-mines. We entered one of them, which was in extent little short of two acres; the argillaceous schistus, which formed the upper stratum, appeared in a variety of stages, the greater part migrating into micaceous schistus. In one part I observed two negroes poking in the little soft veins, which the slips disclosed, with a piece of rusty iron, probably part of an old hoop; and on enquiring what they were about, I was informed they were the miners, searching for topazes. I took one of their instruments, and on using it as they did, found these veins to contain a very minute micaceous substance approaching to earthy talc, also some quartz, and large crystals of specular iron ore. I had the good fortune to find two or three topazes, which, as they had only one pyramid each, and appeared fractured, I judged to be out of their original place. It had hitherto been my opinion, that all the topazes which I had seen at Rio de Janeiro, or elsewhere, and which were of similar form to these, had been broken from the matrix by the miners; I now, therefore, fully expected to meet with some having double pyramids, but, to my great disappointment, all that I found were entirely detached. From a great quantity (at least a cart-load) of inferior topazes, which were afterwards shown to me in the owner’s house, (and any number of which I might have taken away), I could not select one with a double pyramid. They informed me that sometimes, but very rarely, topazes had been found attached to quartz, but even in these instances the quartz was fractured and out of its original place[36]. The topazes which were shewn me, were very imperfect, and full of flaws. The negroes employed in these works were superintended by two Creolians, who received what they found.
After I had collected a variety of specimens, we returned to our mules, continued our journey over bleak and sterile mountains, through roads covered with dust, and arrived about three o’clock in sight of Villa Rica. Though the town stands on an eminence rather steep and lofty, the approach to it is not noble or striking, neither is there any thing in a near view of it, which, to the eye of a traveller, corresponds with the grandeur of its name. The environs, unlike those of opulent towns in general, exhibited few signs of cultivation; not an acre of good pasture was any where to be seen, nor an inclosure of any kind. We arrived a little after four, and alighted at one of the first houses to the left, on entering the town; it had been recommended to us as one of the best inns, but we found, that, in point of cleanliness and accommodation, report greatly overrated it. The owner, being a priest, entrusted the entire management to a mulatto, who acted as if he was seldom under the eye of his master. Having ordered dinner, we walked into the town for about a mile; the streets were very irregular, and so badly paved as to give us no favorable idea of the opulence of the inhabitants. As night was coming on, and we felt fatigued, we postponed delivering our letters until next day, and returned to our inn. Our dinner, which was served up in as slovenly a manner as we had ever witnessed, even in the poorest rancho on the road, consisted of some stewed beef and a fowl. The bread was tolerable, but dear. Being little inclined to sit up after our repast, we retired early to rest; our rooms, though destitute of almost every appropriate convenience, were better than those to which we had of late been accustomed.
Notwithstanding the fatigue of the journey, which heartily disposed me to sleep, my mind was for some time occupied in reflecting on the place at which we had now arrived, and which had long been the theme of our wonder and conjecture. Villa Rica—the rich village! The capital of the province of Minas Geraes, and the seat of its government; a place which had for many years been reputed the richest in Brazil, as to it was brought all the gold found in the vast district around. Impatient to see some vestiges of that splendor which its name implies, I slept but little, and rose at an early hour. We, with difficulty, obtained our breakfast, consisting of coffee and eggs, with bread and English butter, after which we dressed and went to deliver our letters.
Our arrival being announced, we were directed to present ourselves at the audience-chambers, which form part of a large edifice, containing also the post-office and other public rooms for the transaction of Government business. We were introduced to the General of the Forces, and to Dr. Lucas Antonio Monteiro de Barras, Judge of the Supreme Court; the latter held the principal authority in the absence of the Viceroy, who was gone to Rio de Janeiro, another from Goyazes being expected shortly to succeed him. We were honored with a most handsome reception, and various houses were put in our choice, with a kind invitation to make use of any of them during our stay, but we preferred taking lodgings in the centre of the town, within three minutes’ walk of the Palace, in Rua Dereita, the very Bond Street of Villa Rica.
After our interview with the Judge, we devoted some hours to a perambulation of the town, and returned much fatigued to dine at our inn. In the evening I paid a visit to the vicar, who gave me a hearty welcome, and in the usual style of Portuguese compliment, told me his house was mine. The saying, had it been verified, would have put me in possession of one of the best mansions in Villa Rica. At tea the worthy pastor introduced me to several officers, among whom was the late governor of the Diamond district, who gave me much information concerning it, and shewed me an aqua-marina, which had been found in one of the washings. It was a perfect hexagonal prism, full seven inches in length, and three quarters of an inch in diameter, clear and free from flaws. After some hours of very agreeable conversation, the party broke up, and it being dark, I was conducted to my inn by a servant of the vicar’s, with his lantern. At the corners of the streets, along which we passed, there were groups of the lower order of people offering their prayers; in a niche above them was a figure of the Virgin, with tapers burning before it. A voice in a low solemn tone uttered the vespers, the responses were made by the multitude. I took off my hat as I passed, knowing that such a token of reverence is always expected.
The next day was occupied chiefly in removing our equipage to our new lodgings in Rua Dereita; to this service our soldiers were particularly attentive, and left us nothing to do which they could do for us. On the day following we were honored with visits from the judge, the general, the vicar, and many of the principal inhabitants, all of whom testified their respect for us in the most polite manner. Many of them afterwards sent me presents of fine sugar, coffee, sweetmeats, cheese, and some good bread. One gentleman, to give me a proof of the richness of the soil and salubrity of the climate, sent me a cabbage, full fourteen inches in diameter, when stripped of its outside leaves; a finer vegetable never was produced.
When our leisure permitted, we took excursions to view the town and its vicinity, sometimes on horseback and sometimes on foot, generally going and returning in a different direction. It is situated on the side of a large mountain, connected with others forming an immense chain, of which it is one of the highest. Most of the streets range, in steps, as it were, from the base to the summit, and are crossed by others which lead up the acclivity. It is most admirably supplied with water, which is conducted into almost every house in a most convenient and pleasant manner. In the streets are many fountains, which, though not to be compared with those of Italy in architectural taste, are well constructed. One cistern in particular contained water which tasted strongly of sulphate of iron; the natives consider it serviceable in the cure of cutaneous diseases, and frequently bathe in it. The town is divided into two parishes, and contains a population of about twenty thousand inhabitants, of whom there are more whites than blacks. The climate is delightful, and perhaps equal to that of Naples. Though the latitude of the place is only 20° south, yet owing to its elevated site, the temperature of the air is generally moderate. The thermometer never exceeds 82° in the shade and rarely below 48°, but its usual range is from 64° to 80° in summer, and from 48° to 70° in winter. The greatest heats prevail in January. Owing to its great elevation various changes from heat to cold prevail in the same day, and there are frequent showers of rain. Thunder-storms are common, but by no means violent. The sun is sometimes clouded by dews and mist so dense as not to subside until the forenoon is far advanced.
The gardens here are laid out with great taste, and from the peculiarity of their construction present a curious spectacle. As there is scarcely a piece of level ground, even ten yards square, on the whole side of the mountain, the defect has been remedied by cutting spaces one above another at regular distances, and supporting them by low walls, the top of one being on a level with the base of that next above it. An easy flight of steps leads from one level to the other. These terraces seemed to me to be the very kingdom of Flora, for never did I before see such a profusion of delicate flowers. Here were also excellent vegetables of every kind, such as artichokes, asparagus, spinach, cabbage, kidney-beans, and potatoes. There are many indigenous fruits which might be much improved by a better system of horticulture. The peach appears to be the only exotic fruit which has been hitherto introduced; it florishes amazingly. I have frequently seen the branches of the trees so loaded as to require perpendicular support.
The town is of considerable extent, but by no means so well peopled as when the mines were rich. Few of the inhabitants have any employment except the shopkeepers, who are indeed a numerous class. English woollens were by no means dear, superfine cloth being at 30s. to 35s. per yard; coatings, &c. nearly as cheap as in England; common cotton prints at 1s. 6d. to 2s. per yard; hats, handkerchiefs, kerseymeres, and Manchester piece goods in great plenty. There seemed, indeed, to be a glut of English merchandise and produce of all sorts, except earthenware, hams, porter, and butter, which were dear on account of the risk of carriage. Common Figueira wine was 3s. 6d. the bottle. The shops that sold the produce of the country were few in number and very indifferent. There were a great many tailors, shoe-makers, tin-workers, and venders of hardware, some smiths, and no inconsiderable number of saddlers. In a country where every one is a horseman, this trade must, one would imagine, take the lead of most others. The saddles that were shewn me here, were of a much superior make to those which I saw in Rio de Janeiro. I was surprised to find no workers in gold in a place so renowned for the production of that precious metal, but I was informed that the trade was prohibited by law, to prevent the gold from being worked before it was permuted.
The market of Villa Rica was but ill supplied, notwithstanding the fertility of the district around it. Pulse and vegetables for the table were scarce, even grass was an article in great demand[37], and milk was as dear as it is in London. Poultry sold at from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. per couple. Beef of a tolerable kind, but by no means good, might be had at 1-1/2d. per pound. Pork was very fine: mutton was utterly unknown. Tallow was exceedingly dear, and candles were more than double the price at which they sell in this country.