After residing here five days, we visited a diamond work called Monteiro, about two miles up the river, and went a league further to a gold-work called Carrapato. The cascalho at this work was taken from a part of the river eight feet deep, which formed an eddy under a projecting point; I was shewn a heap of it, that was estimated to be worth £10,000. In removing this heap from its bed, four hundred negroes had been employed three months; and to wash it, would occupy one hundred men for three months more, the expense of both operations amounting to perhaps £1,500. We arrived at this place at eight o’clock in the morning; six negroes were employed four hours in washing two troughs, containing together about a ton of cascalho, when, to my great surprise, after the water ran clear, and the large stones were thrown out, the black oxide of iron, of which there was great abundance, was fringed with grains of gold, a novel and very agreeable sight to a stranger. The gold was taken out at three or four different times, and, when the washing was completed, was dried over a fire and weighed: it amounted to nearly twenty ounces Troy. This is esteemed a very rich place, and such circumstances are of rare occurrence. The whole neighbourhood is sterile, presenting the same characteristics as those before described. By proper cultivation the vallies might be rendered very productive; but, as the troops of negroes and their officers are continually changing, no agricultural establishments are formed.
This place probably derived its name from a most disagreeable insect, which infests the low brushwood in the neighbourhood. It is like a sheep-tick; and, on getting access to any part of the body, it fastens imperceptibly, buries its head under the skin, and draws blood until its body is swelled to the size of a bean. If forcibly removed, it leaves a very deep disagreeable hole, which is frequently difficult to heal. The best mode of getting rid of the animal is to anoint it with either laudanum or oil, and suffer it to remain until it dies, when it will drop off.
In the afternoon we returned to Tejuco by another route more mountainous than that by which we had come. Crossing a deep ravine, formerly very rich in diamonds, we rode up a mountain full a mile on the ascent, and passed several rivulets, which I was informed had produced many fine stones. These, and in fact all the best situations in the district, had been in the possession of the smugglers, and were explored by those enterprising men. In the course of our journey, I observed that whenever a traveller or a negro was seen by any of our party at a distance from the road, a soldier was instantly dispatched to bring him to the officers, before whom he underwent an examination.
In the evening we arrived at Tejuco, where I was desirous of remaining a week to recruit my strength. Dr. Camara ordered my baggage to his house, whither I removed in compliance with his pressing invitation: he was kind enough to give me his library as my private room; it was extensive and very select, consisting chiefly of English authors on science. Adjoining to it is a fine garden of nearly three acres in extent, planted chiefly with grass. It was formerly a gold-washing, and consequently presented a surface of only refuse stones; but the present proprietor levelled it, brought a little soil from various parts, and planted a peculiar variety of grass, which he keeps in cutting for his mules. This was the commencement of the fruit season; the peaches, with which the trees were loaded, were nearly ripe. The asparagus, and vegetables of every description, were very fine. The climate appeared to be mild and genial; the thermometer was generally at 62 degrees at sunrise, and at mid-day, in a room rather exposed to the sun, rose to 74 degrees.
Tejuco being situated in a sterile district, which produces nothing for the maintenance of its inhabitants, in number about six thousand, depends, for a supply of provisions, on farms situated several leagues distant. The bread of the country was at this time extremely dear; Indian corn, from which it is made, being from 5s. 6d. to 6s. the bushel; beans and other pulse in proportion. Beef was very indifferent, this being the dry season; pork and poultry were rather plentiful. At no place do I recollect to have seen a greater proportion of indigent people, particularly of females. Full a hundred and fifty of these unhappy persons come weekly to receive portions of flour which the governor was pleased to allow them. They are totally without occupation, here being neither agriculture nor manufactures to afford them any; yet both these main supports of the population might be introduced, if a proper spirit of industry prevailed among the inhabitants. The land would, with little trouble, yield excellent crops, were any kind of inclosures made, which, it must be allowed, is an undertaking attended with some difficulties, yet not of such magnitude as to render it hopeless. With respect to manufactures, a most valuable material is at hand, as cotton from Minas Novas, distant only from sixty to one hundred miles, passes through this place to the capital.
Yet, notwithstanding the idleness of the inhabitants, Tejuco may be called florishing, on account of the circulation of property created by the diamond works. The annual sum paid by Government for the hire of negroes, salaries of officers, and various necessaries, such as nitre and iron, does not amount to less than £35,000, and this, added to the demands of the inhabitants of the town and its vicinity, occasions a considerable trade. The shops are stocked with English cottons, baizes, and cloths, and other manufactured goods; also hams, cheese, butter, porter, and other articles of consumption. Mules from Bahia and Rio de Janeiro came loaded with them. Great complaints were made among the shopkeepers of the bad quality of the cotton goods, and of their losing their colors in washing. Some of the principal inhabitants exclaimed against the introduction of foreign luxuries, and rather wished that their trade with England should furnish them the means of working their iron mines, and enable them to defend themselves.
Tejuco, owing to its situation by the side of a hill, is very irregularly built; its streets are uneven, but the houses in general are well constructed and in good condition, compared with those of other towns in the interior. Its name, which, in the Portuguese language, signifies a muddy place, is derived from places of that description in its neighbourhood, which are rendered passable by being covered with large pieces of wood.
Through the kind care and attention of Dr. Camara and his excellent family, my health was in part re-established, and I was enabled to ride out daily, occupying myself in seeing all I could, and gaining the best information, in which I was assisted by my worthy host and all his friends. Our evenings were passed in a most agreeable manner, among the parties which regularly assembled at the Intendant’s house, consisting of some of the principal inhabitants of the town. In these parties the gentlemen engage at whist, and the ladies take tea and play round games, or enter into conversation on the passing occurrences of the day. In no part of Brazil did I meet with society so select and agreeable; this may certainly be called the court of the mining district. In their manners there was no ceremonious reserve or courtly refinement, but their whole demeanour was genteel and well-bred, enlivened by an ease and good humor which the affability of the chief and his amiable lady and daughters ever tended to promote. The company all dressed after the English mode, and in dresses of English manufacture: the gentlemen were almost all men of title, distinguished with stars, yet the constellation which they formed, was far inferior in brilliancy and elegance to that of the ladies.
I was invited to pay a visit to the treasury, which can only be viewed when a meeting of officers is called, as the treasure is kept in chests, under three distinct locks, the keys of which are entrusted to three several officers, who are all required to be present at the opening. They here showed me the diamonds taken from the tropeiro at Conceição, which were in general much better than those from the mines worked by Government. One about eleven carats was a very fine stone, perfectly crystallized, in the form of an octahedron. The unfortunate man from whom they were taken, I was informed, was very ill in prison. I was then shown about eight hundred carats found in the regular course of washing; they were in general very small, not one exceeding five carats. I observed several round and many inferior ones colored. Those with a dark green hue and rough exterior, were, they informed me, when cut, of the purest water, and from Rio Pardo.