I continued my former route, visiting the same friends who had received me on my journey to Tejuco, until I arrived at Cocaes. In the vicinity of this place are found fine amethysts and crystals, through which titanium is interspersed. Proceeding from hence, I took a more easterly route to Bromada, distant about five leagues. A great part of the road was covered with rich iron ore. I passed through the village of St. John, and entered a fine valley, through which ran a little rivulet, called St. Antonio;—a more delightful place cannot be imagined: the grounds, which lay in gentle elevations, were capable of every kind of cultivation, and appeared calculated amply to repay the farmer for any labor he might bestow on them. In addition to these advantages, and that of a fine climate, this vicinity yet contains some places extremely rich in gold. At the end of this valley we crossed the rivulet over a good stone bridge, and passed through a pretty hamlet called Barra; proceeding a league further, we arrived at the house of Captain José Alvarez, who received me with great kindness. This being Sunday, many of the neighbours were on a visit to his house; a sumptuous dinner had been provided, and the evening passed in very interesting conversation relative to the mode of mining in that neighbourhood. Next day I went to visit the gold-works belonging to this gentleman, the principal of which was situated near the summit of a mountain of decomposed granite, one part of which seemed to have slipped from the other, leaving a cleft of twenty feet perpendicular. The face of this cleft appeared of different colors, some more red or brown than others; the parts esteemed most rich in gold had the appearance of irregular cavities, filled by a stalactitic substance in decomposition. This mountain has produced a great quantity of gold, and continues yet rich: it may be truly called auriferous; for I directed negroes to bring me specimens of earth from every part of the cleft, from the roots of the grass to the bottom, all of which I found to contain gold. At this place stamps are used to reduce the more indurated substances, but they are so ill constructed as to produce but little effect. After a most pressing invitation to stay, and advantageous offers of land to a considerable extent, which I found it expedient to decline, I took leave of the owner of this establishment, and passed a very large house belonging to Capitao Mor Penha, a very opulent miner, who has a large establishment of negroes, and extensive lands. I continued my route five leagues through an auriferous country, passed the village of St. Barbara, and arrived at Cantas Altas. From hence I proceeded to Villa Rica, without observing any thing worth notice.
I was here received with the same attention and respect which I had experienced on my first visit. Finding it necessary to remain a few days to recruit my health, I examined a variety of substances that had been collected for me during my absence, but was not fortunate enough to meet with any thing very interesting. The theatre being open, I passed two evenings there, and was much gratified to find that the rational amusement of the drama had superseded savage bullfights. The theatre and decorations were neat, and the performances tolerable; were they better encouraged, the public would receive greater gratification. They have ever been under the control of the governor, and are generally so fettered as to be obliged to perform such pieces only as his caprice may dictate.
Leaving Villa Rica, I continued my journey to the capital, where I arrived about the middle of February 1810, in a most exhausted state, from the combined effects of fatigue and an indisposition which continual exertion and want of rest had increased in a considerable degree. I informed His Excellency the Conde de Linhares of my arrival, and, in a few days afterwards, had the honor of presenting to him a report, stating the particulars of my journey. I was afterwards introduced to the Prince, who did me the honor to express his approbation of my account of the country through which I had travelled, and requested me to publish it. He was graciously pleased to make both my attendants inferior officers, in reward for their good conduct; and when I expressed my thanks for this mark of his attention, he replied, that it was too trivial to notice, and desired me to name in what manner he could testify the sense he entertained of my services. At this moment my health was so extremely precarious, that I could not think of remaining in Rio de Janeiro, where I found myself daily getting worse; otherwise I have not the smallest doubt that the generosity of the Prince would have amply repaid me for the fatigues I had encountered.
[CHAP. XVI.]
General View of Minas Geraes.
THE capitania of Minas Geraes extends from 600 to 700 miles from north to south, and about the same distance from east to west. It is bounded on the north by the capitania of Bahia; on the west by that of Goyaz; on the south by the river Paraibuna, which divides it from the capitania of Rio de Janeiro. It is separated from the capitania of Espirito Santo and the coast by an immense chain of mountains, which country, being inhabited by the Aborigenes, is of course very little known.
This capitania is estimated to contain three hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, of whom two hundred thousand are negroes, or their immediate offspring. The population of Indians is not included in this estimate, nor can it be ascertained; they are considered as by no means numerous, as they never make any opposition against an armed force, however small. In the course of my journey I did not see one, except the child at the village of Conceição, nor did I ever hear of one of the race of the Buticudos becoming civilized, or living in any of the villages with the settled inhabitants[58].
The regular military establishment of the capitania is very respectable, and consists of 1400 cavalry, which number is prescribed by law. Their principal station is at Villa Rica, where the general resides, who, jointly with the governor, issues all orders respecting them. They form a disposeable force for the general service of the capitania; they are appointed to guard certain places known to contain valuable products; also to receive tolls, collect tythes, patrol the roads, and search suspicious persons, for which purposes parties of them are stationed at the various guard-houses and registers. They go in quest of felons, guard the prisons, and likewise execute orders to impress men levied for service in Rio de Janeiro. They are employed exclusively in the mining country, which they never quit, except when they escort diamonds and treasure to the capital, or are dispatched on any particular service. The regiment is a very fine one, and enjoys so high a reputation, that numbers are continually offering to enlist in it. While I was at Villa Rica, nearly two hundred volunteers were serving, without any remuneration whatever, waiting to be placed on the establishment according to their seniority, as vacancies should occur. This affords the general an opportunity of choosing the most soldier-like men, and those of best character; in which respects it is asserted, and I believe with great truth, that the corps is unrivalled. The officers enter very young, and serve as cadets for a certain period, during which they perform the duty and receive the pay of privates, from whom they are distinguished by a star on the right shoulder, and generally exercise together. They are promoted according to seniority.
Besides this force, there is a militia, in which all the male inhabitants of the capitania are enrolled, and are liable to be called out when occasions require. It is a part of the present policy of the Prince’s ministers to stimulate the Creolians to active occupations, by obliging them either to till their grounds, or to enter the ranks and become soldiers.