Wednesday, 15th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 8.10 a.m.; went a mile west to clear the stones; changed course to 340 degrees. At 2.45 p.m. changed again to 45 degrees. Camped at 4.15. The first twelve miles is poor country, being on the top of stony rises, with eucalypti, grass, and scrubs. After descending from the rises, we crossed a wooded plain, subject to inundation; no water. The trees are very thick indeed—they are the eucalyptus, the Eucalyptus Dumosa, the small-leaved tree, another small-leaved tree much resembling the hawthorn, spreading out into many branches from the root; it rises to upwards of twenty feet in height. We have also seen three other new shrubs, but there were no seeds on them. After crossing the plain we got upon red sandy rises, very thick with scrub and trees of the same description. We continued on this course until 2.45 p.m.; then, as there is an open plain in sight, with rising ground upon it to north-east, and as this scrubby ridge seems to continue, without the least appearance of water, I have changed to north-east. Crossed the plain, which is alluvial soil, covered with grass, but very dry. At 4.15 camped on north-east side, without water. I would have gone on to the rise, but I feel so ill that I am unable to sit any longer in the saddle. I have been suffering for the last three days from a severe pain in the chest. Wind, east. Latitude, 17 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds.
Thursday, 16th May, Sturt Plains. Sent Thring to see if there is a creek or a sign of water under the rise. At 8.20 a.m. he returned, having found no water. It is a low sandy rise, covered with a dense scrub. Started at 8.20 a.m.; course, east. At three miles I was forced to return; the scrub is so dense that it is impossible to get through. Came back two miles; changed to 20 degrees west of south to get out of it. At two miles gained the plain, then changed to the east of south at 10.45. At 2 p.m. there is no hope of a creek or water. Changed to south-west. At two miles and a half struck our tracks and proceeded to Lawson Creek. We found the open parts of the plain black alluvial soil so rotten and cracked, that the horses were sinking over their knees; this continued for six miles. It is covered with long grass and polygonum; also a few eucalypti scattered over it. The scrub we were compelled to return from was the thickest I have ever had to contend with. The horses would not face it. They turned about in every direction, and we were in danger of losing them. In two or three yards they were quite out of sight. In the short distance we penetrated it has torn our hands, faces, clothes, and, what is of more consequence, our saddle-bags, all to pieces. It consists of scrub of every kind, which is as thick as a hedge. Had we gone further into it we should have lost everything off the horses. No signs of water. From south to west, north and north-east nothing visible but Sturt Plains, with a few sand rises having scrub on them, which terminate the spurs of the stony rises. They are a complete barrier between me and the Victoria. I should think that water could be easily obtained at a moderate depth in many places on the plains. If I had plenty of provisions I would try to make it by that way. The only course that I can now try is to the north-east or east, to round the dense scrub and plains. At sundown arrived at Lawson Creek. The horses, owing to the dryness of the grass, drank a great quantity of water; they are falling off very much. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 17th May, Sturt Plains. I must remain here to-day to mend saddle-bags, etc. I have sent Thring to north-east to see if the stony rises continue in that direction. He has returned and gives a very poor account of the country. He crossed them in about six miles, and again came upon the plain that we were on yesterday, extending from north-east to south. Nothing but plains. To the north is the dense scrub, thus forming a complete stop to further progress. From here I fear it is a hopeless case either to reach Victoria or the Gulf. The plains and forest are as great a barrier as if there had been an inland sea or a wall built round. I shall rest the horses till Monday, and will then try a course to the north-west, and another to north-east. I have not the least hope of succeeding without wells, and I have not sufficient provisions to enable me to remain and dig them. It is a great disappointment to be so near, and yet through want of water to be unable to attain the desired end. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 18th May, Lawson Creek. Resting horses, etc. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 19th May, Lawson Creek. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 20th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 7.25 a.m., course 45 degrees, with Thring, Woodforde, and seven horses. The first four miles was over the stony rises; the next three, sandy table-land, with spinifex, eucalyptus, and scrub. Crossed part of Sturt Plains, open and covered with grass. Five miles of it were very heavy travelling-ground, very rotten, and full of holes and cracks. At about thirty miles camped on the plains. We have seen no birds, nor any living thing, except kites and numerous grasshoppers, which are in myriads on the plains. From this place to the east, and as far as south-south-west, there is no rising ground within range of vision—nothing but an immense open grassy plain. The absence of birds proclaims it to be destitute of water. We have not seen a drop, not a creek, nor a watercourse during the whole day's journey. To-morrow I shall again try to get through the scrub. On leaving the camp this morning, I instructed Kekwick to move the party about three miles down the creek to another water hole, the feed not being good. Wind, east.
Tuesday, 21st May, Sturt Plains, East. Started at 7.10 a.m. Passed through a very thick scrub seven miles in extent. We again entered on another portion of the open plains at ten miles from our last night's camp. Nothing to be seen on the horizon all round but plains. Changed to 300 degrees, to where I saw some pigeons fly. At two miles came across their feeding-ground; skirted the scrub until we cut our tracks. No appearance of water. This is again a continuation of the open portion of Sturt Plains; they appear to be of immense extent, with occasional strips of dense forest and scrub. We had seven miles of it this morning as thick as ever I went through; it has scratched and torn us all to pieces. At my furthest on the open plain. I saw that it was hopeless to proceed, for from the west to north, and round to south-south-west, there is nothing to be seen but immense open plains covered with grass, subject to inundation, having an occasional low bush upon them. I think with the aid of the telescope I must have seen at least sixty miles; there is not the least appearance of rising ground, watercourse, or smoke of natives in any direction. The sun is extremely hot on the plain. Having no hope of finding water this morning, I left Woodforde with the pack and spare horses where we camped last night, as the heat and rough journey of yesterday have tired them a great deal; so much so, that I fear some of them will not be able to get back to water. Returned to where I had left him, and followed our tracks back to the open plain. After sundown camped among some scrub. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 22nd May, Sturt Plains. After sunset we saw a number of turkeys flying towards the stony rises where our main camp is; they appear to come from the north-west. Upwards of fifty passed over in twos and threes; and this morning we observed them going back again. Two of the horses which had been short hobbled walked off during the night, following our tracks. Saddled and followed, overtaking them in three miles and a half, standing under the shade of a tree. Unhobbled and drove them on before us. At 12 o'clock arrived at Lawson Creek. Had great difficulty in preventing the horses from drinking too much, and, as there are other holes down the creek, I gave them a little at a time at each. Found that Kekwick had moved with the party. Followed them, and at three miles and a half west-south-west arrived at their camp, and allowed the horses to drink as much as they chose. Poor brutes! they have had very hard work, eighty miles over the heaviest country, under a burning sun, without a drop of water. Three of them were those I had on my former journeys; I could depend upon them; the rest were the best I could pick from the other lot. They have all stood the journey very well, but could not have done another day without water. Natives seem to have been about this water lately, but we have not seen one since leaving our spitting friend on the Hugh. Wind, east.
Thursday, 23rd May, Lawson Creek. Started 7.45 a.m., course 315 degrees, with Thring, Woodforde, and seven fresh horses. At fourteen miles came across a splendid reach of water, about one hundred and fifty yards wide, but how long I do not know, as we could not see the end of it. It is a splendid sheet of water, and is certainly the gem of Sturt Plains. I have decided at once on returning, and bringing the party up to it, as it must be carefully examined, for it may be the source of the Camfield, or some river that may lead me through. On approaching it I saw a large flock of pelicans, which leads me to think that there may be a lake in its vicinity. There are mussels and periwinkles in it, and, judging from the shells on the banks, the natives must consume a large quantity. The gum-trees round it are not very large. The first ten miles of that part of the plain travelled over to-day is full of large deep holes and cracks, black alluvial soil covered with grass, with young gum-trees thicker as we approached the water. This I have named Newcastle Water, after his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, Secretary for the Colonies. Duck, native companion, white crane, and sacred ibis abound here. Returned to bring the party up to-morrow. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 24th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 8 a.m. for Newcastle Water; arrived at noon. Camped. Sent Kekwick to north-east and Thring to west to see the length of it; I have had the depth tried. It is about six feet deep ten yards from the bank, and in the middle seventeen feet. I should say it was permanent. Thring found it still the same at three miles west. Kekwick returned after following it for four miles. At two miles there is a break in it. At four miles it is more of a creek coming from north-east. Gum-trees much larger. Woodforde succeeded in catching four fish about ten inches long, something resembling the whiting. I had one cooked for tea; the skin was as tough as a piece of leather, but the inside was really good, as fine a fish as I have ever eaten. To-morrow I shall follow the water to the west; its bed is limestone. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 17 degrees 36 minutes 40 seconds.