Camp 58. Sultry, wind east. All the animals ready for a start and happy am I to turn my back on this camp which I call Rowdy Creek Falls Camp after the poor little bullock we killed here, which gave us about 70 pounds of such stuff as one could hardly imagine without seeing it—nothing like a particle of fat visible anywhere and excessively tasteless. It is fortunate our two remaining bullocks are in better condition or we would not be in the most enviable plight on our arrival at the settled districts, Queensland. Started on bearing of 335 1/2 degrees over good open country. At two and three-quarter miles came to and crossed a creek coming up from south-south-west; in that direction there are falls and sheets of rock quite across it and forming above and below them splendid reaches of deep water with numberless ducks, etc., and black macaws and gillates in thousands. Plenty of water in our course beyond the creek for half to three-quarters of a mile; then over plains intersected with thin belts of small trees, the river not far off on our right. At seven and a quarter miles changed course to 334 degrees, keeping a little farther from the river. At fifteen and three-quarter miles got to camp, found all right. Natives burning grass close upon our right on the way here to windward at a furious rate. What their particular object can be in burning so much of the country I cannot understand. No natives as yet have voluntarily shown themselves. I met the same lubra and child again near the same place that I before met her, but she did not this time attempt to fire the grass round me. A short way on further I met, or rather overtook, another lubra with two children; she tried at first to conceal herself but when she saw that she was observed she immediately set to work to burn the grass round us in all directions. However I got off the horse and walked towards her, holding out a fish-hook to her; she did not hesitate much but came forward and took it and I went on my way. Saw no natives since but look where you may, except north, and you will see fires raging. About two miles from this and on our left as we came along is a fine lagoon in the midst of timber. The tide it appears rises here now from six to ten feet. Not many fish caught.
Sunday, May 18.
Camp 59. Wind easterly; heavy bank of dark clouds to the west and the sun rose not so bright as usual. Over open plains, bad travelling; on bearing of 340 degrees at four and a quarter miles struck an immense lagoon (semicircular) and kept it on our right for nearly three-quarters of a mile, then still bore 340 degrees for one-seventh of a mile further; then changed course to 17 degrees; at half a mile struck and went through a swampy lagoon going east; at three and a quarter miles river close by on the right; at four and three-quarter miles came to large lagoons in our course; went a little to the left and passed between two, appears to be a very heavy one to the left close by. Still on bearing of 17 degrees; at one and a quarter miles further large lagoon close on right; a couple of hundred yards further on on the right is a fine creek with abundance of water and game; at eight miles crossed it still on bearing of 17 degrees; at two miles further on struck a fine large mangrove creek, a very pretty spot like an orange grove. Bearing of 321 1/2 degrees for two miles; then bearing of 35 degrees, crossed the sea running in through mangrove creeks into the flats like a sluice, and camped at a lagoon and couple of fresh water-holes close by the river at one mile. We are now perfectly surrounded by salt water, the river on one side and the mangrove creeks and salt flats on the other; I question much whether we shall be able to get to the beach with the horses. Since noon the wind changed to north-north-west; country very much burnt by the natives—it was dry enough as it was without the additional use of fire. Lots of the waterlily in bloom on all the deep waterholes and lagoons, and a very handsome tree with dark green foliage and a beautiful yellow blossom, and completely loaded with a round fruit of the size of a crab-apple, now green, and containing a number of large-sized seeds, some of which have been gathered, but I fancy they are too green to save the seed.
Monday, May 19.
Camp 60. In camp near the river where are caught occasionally by the party a few fish, amongst others a young shark which however was not eaten; started out this morning with the intention of going to the beach, taking with me Middleton, Poole, Wylde and Kirby, but was quite unsuccessful, being hindered by deep and broad mangrove creeks and boggy flats over which our horses could not travel. I consider we are now about four or five miles from the coast; there is a rise here in the river of six and two-thirds feet today but yesterday it was a foot higher; killed our three remaining sheep and will retrace our steps on 21st.
Tuesday, May 20.
Camp 60. Wind yesterday from north and north and east, at daylight this morning from north, and during the day pretty nearly from all quarters; afternoon kept more steady from east; sent Hodgkinson and Poole to the salt flats to collect what will be sufficient for our homeward rambles, or rather the Queensland settled districts, where we hope to arrive in due time, the state of the clothing of the party and want of various things—the principal thing, food, has prevented my directing the steps of the party to the settled districts of South Australia. A few natives came to the opposite side of the river this morning during flood-tide and got up in the trees, and I was a long time in getting any of them persuaded to cross; at length two of them and then another middle-aged man ventured on my displaying a tomahawk to them; they were of the ordinary stamp, and strange to say were neither circumcised nor had they any of their front teeth out, but were marked down the upper part of the arm and on the breast and back; after making them a few presents they recrossed; no information from them, but perhaps we may see something more of them on a future day. Hodgkinson and Poole returned with from forty to fifty pounds of good salt, sufficient for our purpose, and we start in the morning to proceed as far as the Falls, and cross the river there in the event of not finding a crossing earlier, which I don't expect. The camels I am sorry to say are getting lame by the burnt stumps of reeds and strong coarse grass entering the soles of their feet, I hope they will soon recover. If the bar at the mouth of the river will admit vessels to enter there is a sufficiency of water at all tides to ship horses or stock from alongside the banks without any wharf or anything else, and good country to depasture upon, but the grasses too strong generally for sheep.
Wednesday, May 21.
Camp 60. Commenced our journey for Port Denison, wind east-south-east. I forgot to mention before that, running parallel with the river between this camp and our last, are small ironstone and conglomerate ridges, with abundance of feed and good sound ground wooded with the silver leaf, dwarf gum-looking tree, and various others of no great growth but sightly, and in the ridges, which are of no height to speak of, there are splendid freshwater lagoons and creeks; came to a lagoon about two and a half miles south-south-west of our 59 camp on nearly our old tracks; splendid feed and water. Just as we had started in the morning the natives made their appearance on the trees on the opposite side of the river but did not attempt to cross. I suppose we will see enough of them on our eastern route; this part of the country is well watered and no end of feed; plenty of it higher than I am, and a considerable variety; the remainder of our sheep, even with their long journey, fell off but little.
Thursday, May 22.