Wind as usual for the last few mornings—northerly; heavy dew but a beautiful morning. The natives were busy grass-burning south-south-east of this in the valley last afternoon. It was observed too late or I would have gone down to them and might have got some information from them as regards the courses of the different creeks, etc. etc., and probably the whereabouts of the nearest station on the Burdekin or one of its tributaries, so that we might be enabled to get a supply of food by the time this is exhausted. The horse turned out for us about seventy pounds of nearly dry meat which I trust will last us till we get to where there is beef or mutton. Started at 8.30 a.m., first on bearing of 119 degrees for a saddle in a low ridge between this and the large range for two and a half miles, then drainage to this point southerly; then bearing of 110 degrees for five and a half to six miles farther, drainage for two-thirds of this distance to the northward; at the end of the distance arrived at a nice brook running to southward close under the range. Got to a peak in the pass at two miles farther on last bearing (110 degrees) then bearing of 101 degrees, firstly over rather rough granite country, latterly over good pastoral, and latterly to a reedy swamp with small water-creeks coming in from right and left. Followed on the south-eastern side of the swamp for some little distance and camped at two and a half miles further. The whole country today is I may say composed of granite, and sound country well-grassed and watered. Distance travelled about ten and three-quarters to eleven miles. After getting to camp went and ascended one of the highest hills near to get a view of the country ahead; had a very extensive view from it, apparently comparatively level country from 62 1/2 to 103 1/2 degrees for some distance, with a sudden dip at about twelve to eighteen miles distant, heavy ranges in the distance beyond, and as seen from this hill very rugged and mountainous country from 62 1/2 degrees by north round considerably to east of south. On a bearing of about 140 degrees under the range I am now on there appears to be a considerable tract of openly timbered and level country, but which way the drainage goes is difficult to determine from top of hill. The swamp and creek we are encamped on and after passing this appears to flow about north, or a little to west of that, but from the top of the hill could see no break in the main ranges to allow of its passing through to either northward or westward.
Saturday, June 28.
Camp 24. Course 90 degrees, heavy dew, beautiful morning. The water although running strong here is of a milky appearance. Started at 8.10 a.m. over granite ridge and crossed swamp and water-creek to north. At two and a quarter miles boulders of lava on the eastern side; at two and three-quarter miles crossed large creek with plenty of water, which I have called Frank's Creek after F. Marchant, Esquire, of Arkaba north of Adelaide. It comes from southward. At four and a half miles crossed small running rivulet from south; at five miles crossed a larger one from same direction; at six and three-quarter miles crossed a running creek in a swamp from south also; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed a splendid creek with oaks, etc., quantity of swampy ground on either side flowing same as last, which I have called the George after George Marchant, Esquire, of Wilpena north of Adelaide. At ten and a quarter miles crossed rivulet running to south; at ten and three-quarter miles examined boggy swamp with plenty of water, drainage to south. At eleven miles on top of small rocky range. Most extensive view ahead of level-looking country. At twelve and a half miles boggy swamp, went round the south end of it, its drainage is northward; at fifteen miles crossed a good-sized creek with sandy bed, some oaks, the water merely trickling through the sand but sufficient for all our wants; good timber. Camped here. Two of the horses nearly knocked up. Creek flows east on passing this.
Sunday, June 29.
Camp 25. Maitland very unwell, Kirby only so-so. There is also water in a small creek close by to south which joins this creek close by; ranges visible within a few miles to south of south-west; wind from southward chiefly but variable; I have called the creek we encamped on last night Burt's Creek after G. Burt, Esquire, of Adelaide. Started at 8.18 a.m. on course of 90 degrees; at half a mile crossed large rocky creek from the south with boulders of lava in its bed; there was lava also at starting; a continuation of rough lava country for three miles; bad travelling. At three and three-quarter miles crossed strong running river or creek, granite bed; fish; with oaks, current to northward. At six miles crossed small dry sandy creek to east-north-east; top of granite ridge at six and one third of a mile: spelled nineteen minutes for a view; bearing of 84 1/2 degrees for a distant knoll in what appears a leading range, and a possibility of getting easily over it. At one mile crossed a small dry creek to east-north-east; at two miles crossed dry sandy creek to east-north-east; at two and three-quarter miles crossed oak creek (dry) to east-north-east; at five and two-third miles crossed large oak creek (dry) to east by north; at one and three-quarter miles further came to lagoon, not very large but suits our purpose for a camp as one of the horses can't be persuaded to come on. I expect I will have to kill him to live upon for a few days whilst the other horses spell; some of them are very weak but the feed is too dry to kill him here; distance travelled about thirteen and three-quarter miles. Saw three emus today and a few turkeys; kangaroos were also seen for the last two days; the strong running river that we crossed at three and three-quarter miles from camp this morning I have called the McKay after G. McKay, Esquire, of Mellia, William's River, New South Wales. The latter part of today the feed has been very dry but generally speaking it is an excellent country for any kind of stock; the only impediment to sheep is the very abrupt banks of the creeks for drays for the cartage of wool, but that would be got over with well searching; saw a native but he made off at full speed when he observed us.
Monday, June 30.
Camp 26. A good deal of box and apple-tree about here; our chief timber of late has been ironbark and other very useful trees, with gums always about the creeks and swamps. Saw yesterday on the way a few of that ornamental fruit-tree of Cooper's Creek, which I have not seen for some time, but it was of small growth; the soil I suppose not being suitable. Will go on for some distance on same bearing as yesterday, to see if I meet better and more green feed accompanied with water to spell the horses. Although I am quite satisfied that I am close upon the Burdekin still I may not be close upon any of the stations. Little dew last night, wind light, and latterly a little inclined to be cloudy; sun rose 58 degrees east of north. Started at 8.3 a.m. At three-quarters of a mile crossed a creek from the east-south-east, deep and dry; rather thickly timbered country and not so rich. Gradual ascent to top of ridge; division of waters about three-quarters of a mile west of the mound or peak I was steering for at four miles. Abreast of peak at four and three-quarter miles; went to top of it; it was very steep and composed of very rough sandstone, granite, and decaying slaty stones. Had a pretty extensive view from it; but my view north, of 62 1/2 degrees, was intercepted by rough ranges. The drainage from this tier of ranges, eastern side, appears in the first instance to go to east-south-east or even south of that; and afterwards when all the watercourses unite in the flat some distance off to go to north and east. Started from this peak on bearing of 62 1/2 degrees for a break I observed in the distant range; at one mile crossed an oak creek (dry) to east-south-east; at three and a half miles crossed another oak creek (dry) lots of kangaroo about, and no doubt there is water although we did not see it in our course; at four and a quarter miles came to and crossed a swamp and creek with water in one hole that will be sufficient for us and camp. Maitland so ill he can hardly hang on the horse's back and the horse Jack knocked up; killed him during the afternoon; although a bag of bones he will make soup for a few days and give Maitland a chance of recruiting, and will be a means of refreshing the horses and camels. Journey today about nine miles, the latter part very ridgy and rather rough although well-grassed; but indifferent travelling on account of the watercourses down the slopes being rather deep and steep on both sides. Kirby still keeps about the same thing; he is a mere bag of bones compared to what he used to be. Palmer has been complaining for some time and gets little better or worse; a violent headache generally seizing him about noon every day. Hodgkinson is also generally complaining. Wind afternoon from north.
Tuesday, July 1.
Camp 27, or Jack's Swamp after our unfortunate horse; poor old fellow, many a score miles he carried me till some time ago he got a little lame and has never done so well since. No dew last night. Bell is, as he has always been, a day complaining and a day well; Davis something similar; Middleton has now got quite well and the rest of us are all pretty right but would be all the better of a change of food for the better; none of us appear very energetic on horse-food; unfortunately maggots got into it and did not improve it either in appearance or quality, but we are not over nice now. Plenty of splendid timber in this part of the country. Wind rather strong from north and continues steady in that quarter. Trying today to jerk a portion of the horse to cause what we have got to spin out. A good many fleecy clouds flying about early part of afternoon and the wind has changed a little to the west of north. In our present state we don't want to see any rain till we get into the stations, as now we are tentless and of course have nothing to cover the sick in case of wet. Late in the afternoon wind considerably to the west, at sunset quite a calm, very cloudy and every appearance of rain, trust that it will blow off. A great number of large-sized kangaroos here but rather shy. Although there is abundance of grass of different kinds here the camels eat but little of it and do very badly; about the lakes north-east of Lake Torrens is the place for them; they eat nearly everything in the shape of grass and shrubs that grow there, but here it is quite different; but few acacias here of which they are very fond.
Wednesday, July 2.