On one side of the valley, opposite to the Glaciers, stands Breven, a mountain whose ridge is 5300 English feet higher than the valley. Many travellers who have more curiosity, and who think less of fatigue than we, take their first view of the Glaciers from the top of mount Breven. As there is only the narrow valley between that and the Glaciers, all of which it overlooks, and every other object around, except Mont Blanc, the view from it must be very advantageous and magnificent.
We determined to begin with Montanvert, from which we could walk to the Glaciers, reserving Mount Breven for another day’s work, if we should find ourselves so inclined. After an hour’s refreshment at our quarters, Mr. K—— and I took a walk through the valley.
The chapter of Priests and Canons of Sallenche have the lordship of Chamouni, and draw a revenue from the poor inhabitants; the highest mountains of the Alps, with all their ice and snow, not being sufficient to defend them from rapacity and extortion.
The priest’s house is beyond comparison the best in the whole valley. Looking at it, I asked a young man who stood near me, if the priest was rich?
Oui, Monsieur, horriblement,—replied he,—et aussi il mange presque tout notre blé.
I then asked, if the people of Chamouni wished to get rid of him?
Oui, bien de celui-ci—mais il faut avoir un autre.
I do not see the absolute necessity of that, said I.—Consider, if you had no priest, you would have more to eat.
The lad stared—then answered with great naïveté—Ah, Monsieur, dans ce pays-ci les prêtres sont tout aussi nécessaires que le manger.