The chief Towns and Places which the Spaniards inhabit here, are 1. Panama, the chief City of the Province, being also a Bishop’s See, which is Suffragan to the Arch-bishop of Lima, and the ordinary Residence of the Governor and Courts of Justice for these Parts; It is seated likewise upon the South Sea, and so near, that at High-water the Ships are said to Ride even under the Walls. Through this Town the Wealth both of Peru and Spain passeth once every Year; from Spain by Nombre de Dios and Porto Bello, from whence whatsoever Merchandise or other Commodities come from Spain, are Transported to Panama by Land, and from thence by Sea to all the Parts of Peru; and by Panama whatsoever comes from Peru, is sent into Spain: It hath commonly a strong Garrison of Soldiers in it, and is doubtless a Place otherwise well fortifi’d, being of so great importance. From the Haven Pericos three Ways lead to Panama, the first along a Bridge over a River, whose Banks are great Fortifications to the City, the rather because the River is deep, and next to it a Pool over-grown with Weeds. The Way from Nombre de Dios plain and without Woods, is wash’d by the Brook Levendero. The third runs along over a Stone Bridge and Champain Grounds, that extend from the Haven Pericos to the City. Eastward from Panama appear seven Royal Houses on a Rock, wherein the Courts of Judicature are kept. Five hundred Rods into the Sea lies an Island resembling a Half-Moon, and the Haven wherein the Ships when they unlade cast Anchor, there being else not Water enough for laden Barques, and all lie dry, the Tide being out: At the Mouth thereof stands a woodden Sconce. The Places Venta de Cruze, Chagre, Quebrada, and Ballano, are also fortifi’d against any Invasion, where else an Enemy might easily Land: But the strictest Watch is kept at the River Chagre, which Westward below Nombre de Dios falling into the Northern Ocean, brings the Ships up to Venta de Cruze, from whence a Way scarce five Leagues long leads to Panama. The Spanish Commodities consisting most in Meal, Oyl, Biskets, Cloth and Silk, are all brought from Nombre de Dios along the same Way; or else in Winter when they cannot stem the Current of the River Chagre, then they bring their Goods by Land, not without great danger of being taken by the run-away Negro’s, who set upon them out of the Woods with poyson’d Darts and Arrows; and as many Spaniards as they take, so many several ways they put them to death, because they formerly in the time of their Servitude were us’d with all imaginable Cruelties. The Provisions sold here at a reasonable Rate are Maiz, Peruan-Meal, Poultrey, Honey, Cattel, Swine, Oranges, Lemmons, Cabbage, and all manner of Garden Herbs or Plants. Round about the fore-mention’d Royal Houses lie Bulwarks, with a strong Castle on one side. A fair Cathedral denotes the Place to be a Bishop’s See: And the Franciscans, Dominicans, and Monks of the Order De la Merced, inhabit several fair Cloysters here. Two Leagues Westward is the Haven Pericos, which being secur’d from all Winds by three high Isles that lie before it, is the chief Harbor in which the Peruan Plate-Fleet (consisting most in small Barques) comes to an Anchor before they touch at Panama. The Countrey is for the most part Mountainous, and in many places sends forth stinking Damps out of muddy Pools; yet in some places are Savanna Grounds for Cattel to Graze in. The Air would also be more unhealthful, if it were not clear’d by the Winds which blow from the Sea. From July to October there fall continual Rains, mix’d with terrible claps of Thunder. The Inhabitants often recreate themselves in Hunting wild Hogs, with Nets made of the Brambles call’d Nequen or Henachen, and that after a strange manner: for they set on fire the Bushes all about the place where they suppose the Game to lie, which to shun the fire runs into their Nets; so that the same Bushes are both their shelter and destruction, as affording Material to make the Nets wherein they are taken. Besides other Birds the Woods also abound with Pheasants and Turtle-Doves; and amongst Beasts, those that carry their Young about them in a Bag, as also wildcats. The Sea abounds with Fish, and produces Crocodiles of a large size, by the Spaniards call’d Lagartos. The Trees are seldom without Leaves, but bear little or no Fruit.
2. Nombre de Dios, which hath broad Streets, high woodden Houses, and a fair Church: It extends from East to West along the Northern Ocean, in the middle of a great Wood on Moorish Ground, having a great Fen on the West; being situate under an unwholsom Climate, it hath occasion’d the death of many People. The Merchants which dwelt here had also Habitations in Panama, (the rest of the Houses being most of them Inns for Strangers) from whence as soon as they had gotten an Estate they went to Spain. The Countrey round about lies under Water in many places. The Oranges, Cassada-Roots, and the like, which grow here, occasion many Distempers to those that eat of them. In the Harbor, which hath on each side a Ridge of Rocks, on which lies decay’d Forts, the Sea is often-times so turbulent, that the Ships are forc’d to Ride at six Anchors apiece. Eastward from the City a fresh-Water River falls into the Haven, on whose Banks stand several Garden-Houses and Orchards. Anno 1595. Sir Francis Drake arriving here, found a Mill beyond the City; not far from which on a Hill stood a Watch-house, of which having made himself Master, he set fire on the Town Nombre de Dios, as also on all the Vessels that were in the Harbor. The original of the Name Nombre de Dios was on this occasion, viz. Diego Niquesa setting Sail with three Ships out of the Haven Carthagena to the Golden Countrey Veragua, was surpris’d by a violent Storm, in which two Ketches, Commanded by Lupus de Olano and Peter Umbria were driven out of sight, whilest he suffer’d shipwrack, and getting ashore, rang’d up and down in a desolate Countrey, where he found no other Food but Roots, till at last he met with Olano; when the Famine began to increase amongst them in such a nature, that being scarce able to carry their Arms, many of them were kill’d by the Inhabitants with poyson’d Arrows, insomuch that of seven hundred there remain’d scarce ninety: Niquesa shipp’d as many of them in a new Vessel which they had made as it could possibly carry, and promis’d to fetch the rest off from Veragua as soon as he had discover’d a Place fit to be inhabited: The first Place he Landed at was Puerto Bello; from whence being necessitated by the Indians who gather’d together to Retreat Aboard, not without the loss of several Men, he set Sail to the Promontory Mormor, beyond which he Anchor’d in a secure Haven; where, as he was going ashore he call’d to his Men, saying, Saltiamo in tierra al Nombre de Dios, that is, Let us Land in the Name of God, and calling up a Fort against the Assaults of the Natives, call’d it Nombre de Dios.
3. St. Philip, or Puerto Bello, so denominated by Christopher Columbus from its Haven lying along the North Sea, wonderful convenient and secure, by reason of the good Ground for Anchoring, and a Creek in the same, defended from all sorts of Winds; and which being surrounded with Woods, hath much over-flow’d Land about it, as also abundance of good Gravel for Ballast; for which and several other Reasons, the famous Architect Baptista Antonelli advis’d the Spanish King, to build this City for a Staple of Trade (in stead of Nombre de Dios, which was found unhealthy) having pitch’d upon an excellent Situation for it, viz. on a Plain at the Foot of a Hill, where there are three fresh Rivulets, meeting with a fruitful and hot Countrey: wherefore his Advice being taken, they first built a Fort at the Mouth of the Haven, put five Guns into the same to defend the new City, and on the Shore a strong Tower with eight Drakes: Moreover, the Rocks along the Shore, and close Woods about the Haven prevent the Landing of an Enemy: But at the very time that this City was just begun to be built, Sir Francis Drake having burnt Nombre de Dios, ran into the Haven Puerto Bello, where he found ten Houses, besides the Governors Palace, and a Castle whose Breast-works which the Spaniards had lately rais’d of Timber, Stone, and Earth, were all demolish’d by the English: But the Spaniards have since re-built the same, and fortifi’d the Haven, with two strong Castles, notwithstanding in the Year 1661. it was surpriz’d and taken by the English under the Command of Captain Parker, and the Governor Petro Melendez taken Prisoner.
4. Nata, commonly call’d St. Jago de Nata, situated on the West side of this Province, upon Mare del Zur, or The South Sea, about thirty Leagues distant from Panama, towards the Borders of Veragua.
5. Acla, a Town upon the same Coast, but lying South-East of Nombre de Dios: It was at first onely a Fort built by Peter de Arias, but afterwards grew up into a small City, of which at present there is nothing remaining but the remembrance of the famous Vasquez Nunnez, Beheaded by his Father-in-law Arias.
6. Lastly, La Crux Real, a few Leagues distant from Panama, for the most part inhabited by a sort of Negro’s call’d Simmerones.
Along the North Coast of Panama are two small woody Islands call’d Cattiva and Comagre, lying low in the Water; also the Isle De Pines, which rises high out of the Sea near the Main Land.
The Isles of Pearls.
On the Southern Coast are Isole de las Perlas, or The Isles of Pearls, about twenty five in number, but indeed rather Rocks than Islands, excepting two, viz. Tararequi and Del Rios where in former times the Indians took great store of Pearls, by diving for them to the bottom of the Sea; and they were esteem’d of greater value and excellence than those of Cubagua, and great profit was made of them by the Spaniards, till by their Cruelties exercis’d upon the Natives through excessive greediness, they depopulated the Islands, and lost that altogether of which before they were so insatiable: they are now onely inhabited by a few Moors and other Slaves, who keep Cattel there for their Masters.
Captain Oxenham’s Expedition.