4. Inoculating or grafting in the budde is another manner of grafting, which is the taking of a budde from one tree, and putting it into the barke of another tree, to the end, that thereby you may haue of the same kinde of fruit the tree bare from whence the budde was taken; and although it bee sufficiently knowne in many places of this Land, yet as I vnderstand, good Gardiners in the North parts, and likewise in some other places, can scarce tell what it meaneth, or at the least how to doe it well. It is performed after a different fashion from the former, although they all tend vnto one end, which is the propagating of trees. You must for this purpose obserue, that for those trees you would graft, either with, or vpon, you choose a fit time in Summer, when the sappe is well risen, and your graft well shot, that the barke will rise easily and cleanly, both of stocke and graft, which time I cannot appoint, because both the years doe differ in earlinesse, and the seuerall parts or countries of this Land likewise one from another, but most vsually in these Southerne parts, from the beginning of Iune vnto the end of it, or to the middle of Iuly, or either somewhat before or after. First (as I said) hauing taken the fitted time of the yeare, you must take especiall care, that your grafts be well growne, and of the same yeares shoote, and also that the buds or eyes haue but single leaues at them, as neere as you can: for I would vtterly refuse those buds that haue aboue two leaues as vnprofitable, either in Peaches or any other fruit; and therefore see that your grafts or cyons bee taken from the chiefest place of the tree, that is, either from the toppe, or from a sunnie side thereof, and not from the contrarie side if you may otherwise, nor from any vnder-boughes; for seeing your graft is so small a thing, you had neede take the more care that it be the best and fairest. You must to take off this eye or budde from the sprigge, haue a small sharpe pen-knife, the end of the haft being made flat and thinne, like a chessell or wedge, the figure whereof is set forth at the letter B, and a pen or goose quill cut, to be lesse then halfe round, and to be broad at the end, but not sharpe pointed like a penne, or else such a peece of bone or Iuorie made in that fashion as the quill is, to bee thinne, hollow, or halfe round, the figures of both which are marked with the letters C, D, with your knife cut the barke of the bud (hauing first cut off the leafe, leauing onely the short foote-stalke thereof at the bud) about a strawes breadth aboue the eye thereof halfe round, and then from that round or ouerthwart cut, with your knife cut it downe on both sides of the eye, close to the bud slopewise about an inch long or thereabouts, that it bee broad at the head aboue the eye, and pointing at the end like a sheild or scutcheon; and then cutting away the rest of the barke from about it, with the thinne flat end of the haft of your knife raise vp both sides of your bud a little, and with your quill or bone put vnder the barke, raise your budde, and thrust it quite off, beginning at the toppe or head of your eye; but see that you thrust it off close to the wood of the branch or sprigge, and that you doe not leaue the eye of the budde behinde sticking vpon the branch; for if that eye be left or lost, your bud is worth nothing; you must cast it away, and cut another that may haue that eye abiding within the budde on the inside: you may perceiue if that eye be wanting, if you see an emptie hole in the place where the eye should be, to fill it vp on the inside thereof; thus hauing taken off your bud well and cleanly, which is set forth vnto you at the figures, 3 and 4. presently set it on the tree you would graft (for your small budde can abide no delay, lest by taking the ayre too long it become dry, and nothing worth) in this manner: Cut the barke of your tree you would graft in a smooth place, at what height you please, first aboue or ouerthwart, and then downe right in the middle thereof, more then an inch long, the figure whereof you shall haue at the figure 1. and then raise vp both sides of the barke, first one, and then another, with the flat and thinne haft end of your knife, a prettie way inwards (for if the barke will not rise easily, the stocke is not then fit to graft vpon) put in your budde into the cleft with the point downewards, holding the stalke of the leafe that is with the budde betweene your fingers of the one hand, and opening the cleft with the flat end of your knife with the other hand, that the head of your bud may be put close vnder the ouerthwart cut in the stocke or tree (which must not be raised or stirred as the sides are) & the eye of the bud stand iust in the middle of the slit that is downeright, and then closing the barke of the stocke or tree softly vnto the bud thus put in with your fingers, let it be bound gently with a small long peece of baste, or other such like soft thing, first aboue the eye, & then compassing it belowe as close as you can, but not too hard in any case, vntil you haue bound it all ouer the slit you made, especially the lower end, lest any winde get in to dry and spoile it; and hauing tyed both ends thereof fast, leaue it so for a fortnight or somewhat more, in which space it will take and hold, if it be well done, which you shall perceiue, if the bud abide green, and turne not blacke, when you haue vnloosed the tying; for if it hold fast to the tree, and be fresh and good, tye it vp gently againe, and so leaue it for a fortnight longer, or a moneth if you will, and then you may take away your binding cleane: this budde will (if no other mischance happen vnto it) spring and shoote forth the next yeare, (and sometimes the same yeare, but that is seldome) and therefore in the beginning of the yeare, cut off the head of the grafted tree about an handfull aboue the grafted place, vntill the graft be growne strong, and then cut it off close, that the head may be couered with the graft, and doe not suffer any buds to sprout besides the graft, either aboue or belowe it. If you graft diuers buds vpon one stocke (which is the best way) let that onely remaine and abide that shooteth best forth, and rubbe off, or take away the other: the seuerall parts of this grafting I haue caused to be expressed for your further information.

5. Grafting in the scutcheon is accounted another kinde of grafting, and differeth verie little from grafting in the budde: the difference chiefly consisteth in this, that in stead of the downe right slit, and that aboue ouerthwart, they take away iust so much barke of the great tree, as your budde is in bignesse, which vsually is a little larger then the former, and placing it therein, they binde it as formerly is said: some vse for this purpose a paire of compasses, to giue the true measure both of bud and stocke; this manner of grafting is most vsed vpon greater trees, whose young branches are too high to graft vpon in the former maner, and whose tops they cut off (for the most part) at the latter end of the next yeare after the bud is taken: both these waies were inuented to saue the losse of trees, which are more endangered by grafting in the stocke, then any of these waies; and besides, by these waies you may graft at a farre greater height without losse.


Chap. V.
Of the manner of grafting and propagating all sorts of Roses.

Hauing now spoken of the grafting of trees, let mee adioyne the properties of Roses, which although they better fit a Garden then an Orchard, yet I could not in a fitter place expresse them then here, both for the name and affinity of grafting, & because I do not expresse it in the first part. All sorts of Roses may be grafted (although all sorts are not, some seruing rather for stockes for others to be grafted on) as easily as any other tree, & is only performed, by inoculating in the same maner I haue set downe in the [former Chapter] of grafting trees in the bud; for both stocke and budde must bee dealt with after the same fashion. And although some haue boasted of grafting Roses by dicing or whipping, as they call it, or in the stocke, after the first manner, set downe in the former Chapter, yet I thinke it rather a bragge, not hauing seene or heard any true effect proceede from that relation. The sweete Briar or Eglantine, the white and the Damaske Roses, are the chiefest stockes to graft vpon. And if you graft lowe or neare the ground, you may by laying downe that graft within the ground, after it hath bin shot out well, and of a years growth, by pinning it fast downe with short stickes, a thwart or acrosse, cause that grafted branch, by taking roote, to become a naturall Rose, such as the graft was, which being separated and transplanted after it hath taken root wel, will prosper as well as any naturall sucker. And in this maner, by laying downe branches at length into the ground, if they be full of spreading small branches, you may increase all sorts of Roses quickly and plentifully; for they will shoote forth rootes at the ioynts of euery branch: But as for the manner of grafting white Roses or Damaske vpon Broome stalkes or Barbary bushes, to cause them to bring forth double yellow Roses, or vpon a Willowe, to beare greene Roses, they are all idle conceits, as impossible to be effected, as other things, whereof I haue spoken in the [ninth Chapter of my first part], concerning a Garden of flowers, vnto which I referre you to be satisfied with the reasons there alledged. And it is the more needlesse, because we haue a naturall double yellow Rose of it owne growing. The sowing of the seedes of Roses (which are sometimes found vpon most sorts of Roses, although not euery yeare, and in euerie place) hath bin formerly much vsed; but now the laying downe of the young shootes is a way for increase so much vsed, being safe and verie speedie to take, especially for those Roses that are not so apt to giue suckers, that it hath almost taken quite away the vse of sowing of the seedes of Roses, which yet if anie one be disposed to make the triall, they must gather the seede out of the round heads, from amongst the doune, wherein they lye verie like vnto the berries of the Eglantine or sweete Briar bush, and especially of those Roses that bee of the more single kindes, which are more apt to giue berries for seed then the more double, although sometimes the double Roses yeeld the like heads or berries. Their time of sowing is in the end of September (yet some reserue them vntill February) and their manner of noursing is to bee transplanted, after the first or second yeares growth, and tended carefully, that while they are young they be not lost for want of moisture in the dry time of Summer.


Chap. VI.
Certaine rules and obseruations in and after grafting, not remembred in the former Chapter.

The time of some manners of grafting being not mentioned before, must here be spoken of. For the grafting of all sorts of trees in the stocke, the most vsuall time is from the middle of February vntill the middle of March, as the yeare and the countrie is more forward or backward, with vs about London wee neuer passe midde March: but because the May Cherrie is first ripe, and therefore of a very forward nature, it doth require to be grafted somewhat sooner then others. The time of gathering likewise, or cutting your grafts for grafting in the stocke, is to be obserued, that they bee not long gathered before they bee grafted, for feare of being too dry, which I commend, howsoeuer diuers say, if they be long kept they are not the worse; and therefore if you be forced to haue your grafts from farre, or by some other chance to keepe them long, be carefull to keepe them moist, by keeping their ends stucke in moist clay; but if neare hand, neglect no time I say after the cutting of them for their grafting, but either the same, or the next day, or verie speedily after, in the meane time being put into the ground to keepe them fresh. The grafts taken from old trees, because they are stronger, and shoote forth sooner, are to bee sooner grafted then those that are taken from younger trees: of a good branch may bee made two, and sometimes three grafts sufficient for anie reasonable stocke. For whipping, the time is somewhat later then grafting in the stocke, because it is performed on younger trees, which (as I said before) doe not so early bud or shoote forth as the elder. Inarching likewise is performed much about the later end of the grafting time in the stocke; for being both kindes thereof they require the same time of the yeare. The times of the other manners of graftings are before expressed, to bee when they haue shot forth young branches, from whence your buds must be taken; and therefore need not here againe to be repeated. If a graft in the stocke doth happen not to shoote forth when others do (so as it holdeth green) it may perchance shoot out a moneth or two after, & do well, or else after Midsummer, when a second time of shooting, or the after Spring appeareth: but haue an especiall care, that you take not such a graft that shal haue nothing but buds for flowers vpon it, and not an eye or bud for leaues (which you must be carefull to distinguish) for such a graft after it hath shot out the flowers must of necessitie dye, not hauing wherewith to maintaine it selfe. Also if your good graft doe misse, and not take, it doth hazzard your stocke at the first time, yet manie stockes doe recouer to be grafted the second time; but twice to faile is deadly, which is not so in the inoculating of buds in the greene tree: for if you faile there in three, or three times three, yet euerie wound being small, and the tree still growing greene, will quickly recouer it, and not be afterwards seen. Some vse to graft in the stocke the same yeare they remoue the stocke, to saue time, & a second checke by grafting; but I like better both in grafting in the stocke, and in the bud also, that your trees might be planted in the places where you would haue them growe, for a yeare or two at the least before you graft them, that after grafting there should be no remouall, I neede not be tedious, nor yet I hope verie sollicitous to remember many other triuiall, or at the least common knowne things in this matter. First, for the time to remoue trees, young or old, grafted or vngrafted, to be from a fortnight after Michaelmas vntill Candlemas, or if neede be, somewhat after, yet the sooner your remoue is, the better your trees will thriue, except it be in a very moist ground. For the manner or way to set them: viz. in the high and dry grounds set them deeper, both to haue the more moisture, and to be the better defended from windes; and in the lower and moister grounds Shallower, and that the earth be mellow, well turned vp, and that the finer earth bee put among the small rootes, wherein they may spread, and afterwards gently troden downe, that no hollownesse remaine among the rootes: as also that after setting (if the time be not ouermoist) there may be some water powred to the rootes, to moisten and fasten them the better; and in the dry time of Summer, after the setting, let them not want moisture, if you will haue them thriue and prosper; for the want thereof at that time, hath often killed manie a likely tree. To stake and fence them also if neede bee after they are new set, and so to continue for two or three yeares after, is verie expedient, lest windes or other casualties spoile your paines, and ouerthrow your hopes. And likewise to defend your grafts from birds lighting on them, to breake or displace them, to sticke some prickes or sharpe pointed stickes longer then your graft into your clay, that so they may be a sure defence of it: As also to tye some woollen cloathes about the lower end of your stockes, or thrust in some thornes into the ground about the rootes, to defend them from hauing their barkes eaten by Conies, or hurt by some other noisome vermine.