Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory of the Earth

by John Playfair

[196] The instance mentioned in the Geological Essays, from the travels of the Abbé Fortis, concerning urns thrown into the Adriatic, upwards of 1400 years ago, and not yet covered with mud, must be explained from peculiar circumstances, or local causes, with which we are unacquainted, as it makes against the deposition of earth near the shore, and in narrow seas; a general fact which, I think, every body admits.

379. A remark which Major Rennell has made concerning the mouths of rivers, in his Geography of Herodotus, deserves Mr Kirwan's attention, though perhaps he may not be able to put on it an interpretation quite so favourable to his system. The remark is, that the mouths of great rivers are often formed on principles quite opposite to one another, so that some of them have a real delta or triangle of flat land at their mouths, while others have an estuary, or what may not improperly be called a negative delta. Of the latter kind are some of the greatest rivers in the world, the Plata, the Oroonoko and the Maranon, and by far the greatest number of our European rivers. Nobody can doubt, that the three rivers just named carry with them as much earth as the Nile, or the Euphrates, or any other river in the world. All this they have deposited in the sea, and committed to the currents, which sweep along the shore of the American continent, and by these they have been spread out over the unlimited tracts of the ocean.

Indeed, nothing can be more just than Dr Hutton's observation, that where low land is formed at the mouths of rivers, there the rivers bring down more than the sea is able to carry away; but that where such land is not formed, it is because the sea is able to carry off immediately all the deposit which it receives.

380. Mr Kirwan has denied on another principle the power of the sea to carry to a distance the materials delivered into it: "Notwithstanding," says he, "many particles of earth are by rivers conduced to the sea, yet none are conveyed in any distance, but are either deposited at their mouths, or rejected by currents or by tides; and the reason is, because the tide of flood is always more impetuous and forcible than the tide of ebb, the advancing waves being pressed forward by the countless number behind them, whereas the retreating are pressed backward by a far smaller number, as must be evident to an attentive spectator; and hence it is that all floating things cast into the sea, are at last thrown on shore, and not conveyed into the mid regions of the sea, as they should be if the reciprocal undulations of the tides were equally powerful "[197]

[197] Kirwan's Geol. Essays, p. 439.

381. But if the attentive spectator, instead of trusting to a vague impression, or listening to some crude theory of undulations, reflects on one of the most simple facts respecting the ebbing and flowing of the tides, he will be very little disposed to acquiesce in the above conclusion. He has only to consider, that the flowing of the tide requires just six hours, and the ebbing of it likewise six hours; so that the same body of water flows in upon the shore, and retreats from it, in the same time. The quantity of matter moved, therefore, and the velocity with which it is moved, are in both cases the same; and it remains for Mr Kirwan to show in what the difference of their force can possibly consist.

The force with which the waves usually break upon our shores, does not arise from the velocity of the tide being greater in one direction than in another. In the main ocean, the waves have no progressive motion, and the columns of water alternately rise and fall, without any other than a reciprocating motion: a kind of equilibrium takes place among the undulations, and each wave being equally acted upon by those on opposite sides, remains fixed in its place. Near the shore this cannot happen; the water on the land side from its shallowness being incapable of rising to the height necessary to balance the great undulations which are without. The water runs, therefore, as it were, from a higher to a lower level, spreading itself towards the land side. This produces the breakers on our shores, and the surf of the tropical seas. A rock or a sandbank coming within a certain distance of the surface, is sufficient, in any part of the ocean, to obstruct the natural succession of undulations; and, by destroying the mutual reaction of the waves, to give them a progressive instead of a reciprocating motion.

382. It is, however, but from a small distance, that the waves are impelled against the shore with a progressive motion. The border of breakers that surrounds any coast is narrow, compared with the distance to which the detritus from the land is confessedly carried; the water, while it advances at the surface, flows back at the bottom; and these contrary motions are so nearly equal, that it is but a very momentary accumulation of the water that is ever produced on any shore.

If it were otherwise, and if it were true that the sea throws out every thing, and carries away nothing, we should have a constant accumulation of earth and sand along all shores whatsoever, at least wherever a stream ran into the sea. This, as is abundantly evident, is quite contrary to the fact.

So, also, the bars formed at the mouths of rivers, after having attained a certain magnitude, increase no farther, not because they cease to receive augmentations from the land, but because their diminution from the sea, increasing with their magnitude, becomes at length so great, as completely to balance those augmentations. When properly examined, therefore, the phenomena, which have been proposed as most inconsistent with the indefinite transportation of stony bodies, afford very satisfactory proofs of that operation.