Dodsworth informs us that in the neighbourhood of Lytham there existed, in 1601, a village called Waddum Thorp, and that eleven years previously the Horsebank was a green pasture for cattle. Dr. Leigh affirms that the hamlet in question was peopled by some Saxon fishermen. The locality alluded to in the foundation document as Snartsalte is now denominated Saltcoats, and was, like several neighbouring places, the site of a salt manufactory in remote days. Geoffrey Gillet worked the Saltcoats manufactory. Cambden in describing the extractive process says:—“They pour water from time to time upon heaps of sand till it grows brackish, and then with a turf fire they boil it into a white salt.” Bowden wrote, in 1722, concerning the same subject:—“On many places on the coast the inhabitants gather heaps of sand together which, having lain some time, they put into troughs full of holes at the bottom, pour water upon them, and boil the lees into white salt.”
About 1800 the hamlet comprised several mud and thatch cottages, interspersed here and there with a fair number of habitations of recent origin, built with bricks and slated. There were also two inns in existence, the Wheat Sheaf and the Clifton Arms, besides two small licensed houses. The Wheat Sheaf was erected in Clifton Street during the year 1794, and almost simultaneously, but a little later, the Clifton Arms arose on the opposite side of the thoroughfare, facing the sea. There were several shops in the village, and in Douglas Street a house of confinement, containing separate cells, for the detention and punishment of any offenders against the law. The most pretentious dwellings stood upon the northern portion of the tract known as the Marsh, and all of them were newly constructed. One near the western extremity was a substantial house with gardens and plantation, inhabited by the clergyman of the parish, the Rev. Robt. Lister. In close proximity was a marine villa with a Chinese porch, belonging to William Hornby, esq., of Kirkham; and a row of white cottages, called Lizmahago, after a race horse of John Clifton, esq., who had erected them for the accommodation of visitors. A pretty white villa was placed more to the rear, and several well-constructed lodging-houses studded the ground between those just mentioned and the old village, where clay and straw had been the time-honoured building materials. The beach afforded no more than three bathing machines, but sundry improvements, both in multiplying the vans and in the establishment of a warm sea-water bath, were in contemplation. No elegant promenade with its expansive sward, as at present, defined the landward margin of the beach, but the whole space, at one end of which Mr. Cookson had erected a windmill, was covered with miniature sand-hills and star-grass, unfolding a most uninviting and deterring aspect to the pedestrian. The church of St. Cuthbert’s was built of rubble, rough cast and whitened, and certainly possessed, both externally and internally, no very extensive claims to architectural beauty. The instrumental part of the service was accomplished by means of a clarionet and a bass fiddle. The religious edifice stood in the midst of fields, and was approached by a footpath, sufficiently wide to admit the passage of bathing vans, which were occasionally had recourse to by visitors on wet Sundays, in order to attend the service with dry garments, being then, and for some time afterwards, the only covered vehicles in the place. Lytham Hall, embosomed in lofty trees and plantations, formed an imposing object, being situated half a mile inland, between the village and the church. This noble mansion, comprising three fronts, of which the east is the principal, was commenced in 1757 and completed in 1764, by Thomas Clifton, esq., and superseded the original Hall, erected about 1606, by Sir Cuthbert Clifton. At the date now under examination, its possessor, John Clifton, esq., had laid out a race-course for training purposes, of three miles and a quarter in circumference, in the fields to the north-west of the church; and close at hand were excellent paddocks and stables, filled with a considerable stud of fine blood horses. The residence of the trainer was an elegant villa near the stables, surrounded with a shrubbery. Two steamers plied daily in the season between Preston and Lytham, but the larger share of the company arrived by the road, the journey having a few years previously been rendered more direct by the opening of a route across the marshes, past Freckleton, instead of the former circuitous one through Kirkham. In 1801 the population amounted to 920 persons.
During the ensuing twenty years Lytham made steady, if not rapid, progress. Buildings of modern and pretty designs sprang up along the beach, whilst others of substantial workmanship were visible in the lines of various thoroughfares, especially in Clifton Street. The two hotels already specified, underwent enlargements, owing to the growing pressure on their accommodation, and a fresh inn, the Commercial, was erected on the land behind the present Market Hotel, the front and main entrance of the house having an easterly aspect, overshadowed by several lofty trees. A little beyond the north gable end of the inn, in a westerly direction, were the old gates of the park attached to Lytham Hall, near to which, on the road side, was stationed the pinfold, constructed of cobble stones, in a quadrangular form, with an embattled tower rising about eight feet above the height of the walls. A small Baptist chapel, having a school-room connected with it, also existed, standing on part of the ground now occupied by the premises of Mr. Edmondson, draper, the remaining portion being covered by the residence and shop of that gentleman’s father, who owned the chapel, and acted as its minister. The chapel would hold about thirty worshippers, and contained three or four rows of forms and a pulpit; whilst the school-room, of equal dimensions, was let to a person for a private day seminary.
During the summer months, hundreds of day visitors, in addition to the more permanent ones who constituted the company, found their way in carts, waggons, or lighter vehicles, to the coast at Lytham, from Preston, Blackburn, Burnley, and other inland towns, for the pleasure of enjoying once, at least, a year, an invigorating bath in the sea. The fortnightly spring tides were the signals which foretold the advent of these huge pic-nic parties, for such it seems appropriate to style them, who flocked down to the shore, generally bringing their own provisions with them, and after disporting themselves amidst the waves, and procuring amusement in various ways during the day, returned quietly or hilariously home to their several destinations, in the evening or following morning, in the manner they had arrived. Some from the more remote places prolonged their sojourn for three days. Races for the better class of farmers’ horses were held annually on Wit-Monday, over the sward which runs from the windmill to the site of an old lime kiln about one mile distant, in the direction of Saltcoats, the course being round that spot to the starting point. These races, which are described as having been very fair contests, were kept up for many years. The prizes competed for were saddles, bridles, whips, etc. The bowling greens of Lytham amounted to two, which were attached to the Clifton Arms and Commercial Hotels, and were well patronised.
The following description of the attractions of Lytham, published in 1821, furnishes a pretty correct idea of the recreations afforded by the watering-place about that date:—“Lytham is a very salubrious place; its walks are pleasant and diversified. You may walk for miles on the sand westward. You may trip to the Hey-houses and get bad ale. Common-side offers a journey, which, if you please, ends at Blackpool. The walks are many and various for those who love exercise; the lazy will soon tire here, but the active will never be at a loss. The sands are fine—the sea breeze pleasant—the air is impregnated with health. Sailing may be had at tide time; boats are occasionally going to Preston and over the water to Southport. There are baths, shower, cold, and warm for invalides. Old Hugh Holmes, the shaver, doctor, and shopkeeper, is an old man, thin and meagre, conceited to a tittle, and remarkably fond of chit-chat. The people here bathe not at all, whilst those from a distance think it a blessing. Holmes, the barber, said he had never bathed in his life, nor could I persuade him to do so. He said that he was sound in body, and if so, why dip in the briny sea at all.”
In 1821 the population of Lytham amounted to 1,292 persons, consisting of 258 families; and in 1825 the parish contained 258 houses, the occupants of 75 of which were employed chiefly in agriculture, and of 55 in trade, fishing, or handicraft, those of the remaining 128 being unclassified. Three years later the Wheat Sheaf Inn and a wide range of thatched buildings adjoining were demolished, and after leaving the spacious opening, called Dicconson Terrace, leading down to the beach, several improved dwellings and a billiard-room were placed on the remainder of the ground. The greater part of the marine frontage had been levelled, and efforts commenced to lay out a species of walk or promenade. The houses standing along the shore line were usually hired furnished by families for varying periods, at prices from one and a half to three guineas per week, their value being estimated by the number of bed-rooms, each of which represented ten shillings and sixpence a week. Other villas in the watering-place were similarly let, but lodgings could be procured amongst the humble cottages on a weekly payment of four shillings and sixpence by each individual. The prices at the hotels for board and lodging, exclusive of wine and liquors, were—at the Clifton Arms, seven shillings a day in private, and six shillings in public; the Commercial, five shillings and sixpence; and the Ship, a new inn erected since 1820, three shillings and sixpence. Of trades and professions in the village there were three milliners, six drapers, three boot and shoe makers, five joiners and cabinet makers, one druggist, two blacksmiths, one ship carpenter, one custom-house officer, one tide-waiter, one corn miller, three butchers, five grocers, two coal dealers, one confectioner, one surgeon, one attorney, and one clergyman. In addition it should be mentioned that a solitary ladies’ seminary had been established within the previous twelve months. “I recollect,” says Mr. Whittle, in his Marina, “visiting Lytham during July, 1824, when Mr. Lardner’s troop of comedians were performing in what was termed the ‘New Theatre, Lytham,’ Cibber’s admired comedy of a ‘Journey to London, or a Bold Push for a Fortune,’ and the laughable farce of the ‘Irish Tutor, or New Lights.’ The chief of the stage business was done by the Lardners, consisting of father, mother, son, and daughter. Likenesses were also taken in miniature by Mr. Lardner, senior, at from two to five guineas each! and the polite art of dancing taught by Lardner, junior. We saw in succession performed Morton’s comedy of ‘Speed the Plough, or the Farmer’s Glory;’ ‘Lovers’ Vows, or the Child of Love’; and Coleman’s admired and excellent comedy of the ‘Poor Gentleman’; all of which were tolerably got up, but the scenery was not of that kind which befitted a place of dramatic exhibition.” During the season three coaches ran regularly from Preston to Lytham and returned, their times of departure being—from Preston, at 12 noon, 5 in the evening, and 7 in the evening; and from Lytham, at 6 in the morning, 9 in the morning, and half-past 4 in the afternoon. In addition to these coaches, occasional public conveyances and many private vehicles brought their loads of pleasure-seekers to the village, especially during Easter and Whit-tides. Letters arrived at half-past 9 in the morning and were despatched at 4 in the afternoon. In 1828 the buildings situated in the vicinity of the beach were, commencing at the eastern extremity of the line and travelling westward, a house, occupied by Miss Dennett, Rimmer’s and Butcher’s cottages, the Baths with a house adjoining, two newly erected dwellings, Cookson’s cottages, Rawstorne’s Marine Cottage, Craven’s and Hampson’s cottages, Clifton Place, Buck’s cottages, Silcock’s and Miller’s cottages, Townend’s and Captain Cookson’s residences, Mr. Barton’s house, Captain Fell’s and Mrs. Birdworth’s residences, Mr. Fisher’s house, Lizmahago houses, Hornby’s Chinese villa, the Parsonage, in the occupation of the Rev. Robert Lister; the Parish Church, situated more inland, and Church-house, a rural place. Mr. Corry, in his History of Lancashire, published about that time, states:—“That the increase of Lytham has not been so rapid as in many villages, where the people are engaged in manufacture; but a considerable part of the visitors and settlers within the last twenty years have been opulent individuals, who were induced by the beauty of the spot and the benefit derived from bathing in the sea water, to resort to this pleasing village.” The houses were unnumbered and recognised by the titles bestowed upon them, or the names of their owners. Lamps for the autumn and winter evenings were unknown in the streets, whilst libraries, news-rooms, and livery stables were things of the future. The Clifton Arms Hotel had recently been overlaid with a thick coating of cement resembling stone, and the Commercial Inn had undergone sundry enlargements. An ornamental enclosure or garden had been formed on the land of the present Market-house, surrounded by a palisading and planted with flowers and shrubs. A carriage road also had been lately made from the village to the church of St. Cuthbert.
In 1831 the census of Lytham showed a total of 1,523 residents, being an increase of 231 over the population ten years before; and three years subsequently the ancient church of the parish was levelled to the ground and the erection of the present edifice commenced. The early growth of the summer resort was much retarded by the exceedingly short terms upon which building leases were granted. Previous to 1820 all land reverted to the lord of the manor forty years after its provisional purchase had been effected, so that there was little inducement for either the speculative or private individual to upraise habitations where the tenure was so unsatisfactory. About that date the duration of leases was extended to sixty years, and even this slight advance in a more liberal direction was not without influence in promoting the development of the place, but no great rapidity characterised the multiplication of houses until a later epoch, when periods of 99 and 999 years were offered to purchasers. In 1839 the Roman Catholics erected a chapel, dedicated to St. Peter, at the east corner of Clifton Street. Previously the members of this sect had worshipped in a small chapel belonging to Lytham Hall, which had superseded the domestic oratory of the Cliftons, in the days when they professed the Romish creed. The edifice in Clifton Street is of brick and has a priests’ residence and schools attached, the whole being prettily encircled by willow trees and a low wall.
The returning seasons brought increasing streams of visitors to the shores of Lytham, and practically proved that the delightful and invigorating influences of the climate and sea were well and widely appreciated by the populace of the large inland towns. The marine esplanade and the firm sands left by the receding tide were ever alive with crowds of people, who either for health or pleasure, or a combination of the two, had arrived in the watering-place. The bathing vans were still unequal to the demands on their accommodation, and many were compelled to dispense with their decorous shelter, and unrobe themselves on the more secluded parts of the beach. To have returned home again without immersing their body in the buoyant sea would to most of them have been to omit the chief object of their journey, many, indeed, having such an exalted idea of the remedial and hygienic properties of the water that they imbibed huge draughts, and even filled bottles with it, for future use, or for friends who had been unable to come themselves. There were few amusements for the visitors beyond those enumerated earlier, but had there been none other, the exhilarating breeze and bath, coupled with the novel surroundings, would have possessed sufficient charm to insure a thronged season year after year.
In 1841 the population numbered 2,047 persons, being a rise of no less than 524 in the inhabitants during the preceding ten years, more than double the excess observed in the census of 1831 over its antecessor. During the previous twelve months the Clifton Arms Hotel, in Clifton Street, had been abolished and a stately building, bearing the same name, erected on the front, where it now stands, very considerable enlarged and beautified under the proprietorship of the late Mr. John Knowles, who purchased it on lease from the lord of the manor, and by whose representatives the Hotel and appurtenances were sold to a company of gentlemen in 1875.
The 16th of February, 1846, initiated a new era in the history and progress of Lytham, for on that day the branch line connecting this popular resort with the Preston and Wyre Railway was formally opened. At an early hour the town evinced manifest signs that the inhabitants were bent on doing full honour to the introduction of their invaluable ally; flags and banners floated from the church and the residences of many of the inhabitants, and later in the day the streets were thronged with processions and spectators of all grades. The directors and a large party of the neighbouring gentry assembled by invitation at Lytham Hall, and after partaking of luncheon proceeded to the newly erected station, where the “opening train,” consisting of an engine, gaily decorated, and fourteen carriages, awaited their arrival. Amongst the gentlemen who accompanied Thomas Clifton, esq., and Mrs. Clifton, on the formal trip to Kirkham and back, were John Laidlay, W. Taylor, J. Dewhurst, T. W. Nelson, Frederick Kemp, C. Swainson, James Fair, E. Houghton, W. H. Hornby, T. R. W. ffrance, P. Rycroft, W. Royds, and William Birley, esquires, the Revs. R. Moore and W. Birley, and Colonel Rawstorne. The train departed amid a volley of cheers and discharge of cannon, and proceeded to Kirkham; the return journey was performed in fifteen minutes. The carriage station was 140 feet long by 53 feet wide, and covered by a somewhat unique roof of twelve wooden arches, put together in segments and secured by nuts and screws, all the timber ends butting upon each other like the stones of an arch, but as solid, from their peculiar construction, as if the whole had been cut out of a single block of timber. The Lytham line diverged from the main railway at a point about a mile to the north-west of Kirkham, and was nearly five miles in length. It passed within a short distance of the village of Wrea, where a station was built, and terminated in the immediate vicinity of the Roman Catholic chapel in this town.