During the years more immediately previous to the opening of the new port at the mouth of the river, a great many large ships from America, laden with timber, and brigs from Russia, with flax and tallow, were discharged at Wardleys. A three masted vessel, for the foreign trade, was also constructed in the ship-yard attached to that place, but as far as can be learnt this was the only vessel of equal dimensions ever built there, repairs being the chief occupation of the workpeople.
Several of the officers connected with the Custom House at Poulton, were stationed at Knot End, opposite the Warren, living in the small cottage standing near the shore, in order to board the different craft as they entered the river, and pilot them up the stream to Wardleys. A large hotel is situated behind the site of the old ship-yard, and during the summer months is generally well patronised by visitors, to whom, as well as to the pleasure-parties arriving by water from Fleetwood, and by road from Blackpool, the hamlet is now mainly indebted for support. Some large mussels, the “Mytili angulosi,” but known amongst the natives of those parts as “Hambleton hookings,” were found formerly in large quantities a little lower down the river, but lately specimens of this fine shell-fish have been growing much scarcer. Dr. Leigh, in his Natural History of our county, informs us that pearls have frequently been discovered enclosed within the shells of these molluscs, and also that their popular name arises from the manner in which they are taken, the feat being accomplished “by plucking them from their Skeers, or Beds, with Hooks.” The tidal estuary of the Wyre embraces an area of three miles by two, and it is near to its termination that the port and town of Fleetwood are situated. Our purpose now is not to enter into a description of the harbour, which will be found in the chapter specially devoted to the seaport itself, but a few words as to the advantages derived from the nature of the river’s current and its bed, will not be out of place. Captain Denham, R.N., F.R.S., after inspecting the site of the proposed port on behalf of the promoters, issued a report in the month of January, 1840, and amongst other things, stated that during the first half of the ebb-tide, a reflux of backwater was produced which dipped with such a powerful under-scour as to preserve a natural basin, capable of riding ships of eighteen or twenty feet draught, at low water, spring tides; also that the anchorage ground, both within and without the harbour, was excellent. These facts alone seemed sufficient to warrant the gallant officer’s prediction that the undertaking would be successful and remunerative, but when in addition it is called to mind, that “as easy and safe as Wyre water” had for long been a proverb amongst the mariners of our coast, and that the harbour was, and is, perfectly sheltered from all winds, as well as connected with a railway terminus which communicates with Preston, Manchester, etc., we are astonished that comparatively so little encouragement has been given to it, and that now, thirty-five years from the date of this survey, the first dock is only approaching completion.
The river Wyre is plentifully supplied with fish of various sorts; in the higher parts of the stream trout and smelts may be found, whilst the lower portion and estuary contain codling, flounders, sea-perch, conger, sand eels, and occasionally salmon. The earliest enactments with regard to the fisheries connected with the last-named fish related to the Wyre, Ribble, and other rivers of Lancashire. In 1389, during the reign of Richard II., a law, which arranged the times and seasons when the fisheries in these rivers should be closed, and other matters affecting them, was passed and brought into force, being the first regulation of its kind.
The Ribble is associated with the Fylde only in so much as its tidal estuary is concerned, which forms the southern boundary of the district. Since 1837 great alterations have been effected in the channel of the river by the Ribble Navigation Improvement Company. The stream for the larger portion of its extent from Preston to the Naze Point has been confined within stone embankments, and its bed considerably deepened by dredging. During the progress of these improvements wide tracts of land have been reclaimed both north and south of the current. From Freckleton the river rapidly widens as it approaches the sea, so that a direct line drawn from Lytham to Southport across its mouth would pass over a distance of seven or eight miles. The channel here is shallow, while the sands on each side are flat and extensive, and midway in the estuary, at its lowest part, lies the far-famed Horse-bank, which divides the stream into a north and south current, scarcely discernible, however, after the tide has risen above the level of the bank. About one mile from the town of Lytham, in the direction of Preston, is a pool of moderate dimensions, having an open communication with the river, and formed into a small harbour or dock for yachts and vessels connected with the coasting trade. In the bed of the river, a little higher up than that locality, trunks of large trees are occasionally observed at low water, and many such remains of a once noble forest, which is believed to have extended from near the Welsh coast as far even as Morecambe, have been raised at different times during the operation of dredging.
The following descriptions of the Ribble, its source, course, and tributaries, were written, respectively, by the ancient topographer Harrison, and the poet Drayton, whose accounts of the Wyre have been previously quoted:—
“The Rybell, a river verie rich of Salmon and Lampreie, dooth in manner inviron Preston in Andernesse, and it riseth neere to Ribbesdale above Gisburne. It goeth from thence to Sawley or Salley, Chatburne, Woodington, Clitherow Castell, and beneath Mitton meeteth with the Odder, which ryseth not farre from the Cross of Grete in Yorkshire, and going thence to Shilburne, Newton, Radholme parke, and Stony hirst, it falleth ere long into Ribble water. From thence the Ribble hath not gone farre, but it meeteth with the Calder. Thys brooke ryseth above Holme Church, goeth by Townley and Burneley (where it receiveth a trifeling rill), thence to Higham, and ere long crossing one water that cometh from Wicoler, by Colne, and another by and by named Pidle brooke that runneth by Newechurch, in the Pidle: it meeteth with ye Calder, which passeth forth to Padiam, and thence (receyving a becke on the other side) it runneth on to Altham, and so to Martholme, where the Henburne brooke doth joyn with all, that goeth by Alkington chappell, Dunkinhalge, Rishton, and so into ye Calder as I have sayde before. The Calder therefore being thus inlarged, runneth forth to Reade (where M. Noell dwelleth), to Whalley, and soon after into Ribell, that goeth from this confluence to Salisbury hall, Ribchester, Osbaston, Sambury, Keuerden, Law, Ribles bridge, and then taketh in the Darwent, before it goeth by Pontwarth or Pentworth into the sea. The Darwent devideth Leland shire from Andernesse,[57] and it ryseth by east above Darwent Chappell, and soone after uniting it selfe with the Blackeburne, and Rodlesworthe water it goeth thorowe Howghton Parke, by Howghton towne, to Walton hall, and so into the Ribell. As for the Sannocke brooke, it ryseth somewhat above Longridge Chappell, goeth to Broughton towne, Cotham, Lee hall, and so into Ribell.”
“From Penigent’s proud foot as from my source I slide,
That mountain, my proud sire, in height of all his pride,
Takes pleasure in my course as in his first-born flood,
And Ingleborrough too, of that Olympian brood,