History of the Fylde of Lancashire

by John Porter

CHAPTER VIII.
FLEETWOOD-ON-WYRE.

The site of the present town of Fleetwood was at no very distant period, less than half a century ago, a wild and desolate warren, forming part of the Rossall estate, and belonging to the late Sir Peter Hesketh Fleetwood, bart. At that date the northern side showed unmistakable evidences of having at an earlier epoch been bounded by a broad wall or rampart of star-hills, continuous with the range until recent years visible near Rossall Point, or North Cape, as that portion of the district was locally called, but which has now been destroyed and levelled by the sea. Beyond the warrener’s cottage and a small farm-house on the Poulton road, no habitations existed anywhere in the vicinity; the whole tract of sandhills and sward had been usurped by myriads of rabbits, which were some little time, even after the erection of dwellings, before they entirely deserted the spot where for centuries they had found a home. During the stormy months of winter, and in the breeding season, immense flocks of sea-fowl made their way to these shores, and like the rabbits, were allowed to remain in undisputed and undisturbed possession of the domain they had appropriated.

Whether this district or locality was populated in the earlier eras of history by any of the aboriginal Britons, invading Romans, or piratical Danes, is a question difficult to solve, but the existence of a paved Roman road, discovered some depth beneath the sand when the trench for the sea-wall was being excavated opposite the Mount Terrace, and traced across the warren in the direction of Poulton, proves beyond a doubt that there was traffic of some description, either peaceful or war-like, over the ground at a very remote age. The road is commonly designated the Danes’ Pad, from a tradition that these freebooters made use of it during their incursive warfare in the Fylde.[82] Evidence in support of the belief that this part of the coast was visited by the Danes or Northmen, as the inhabitants of Scandinavia were called, is to be found in “Knot End,” the name by which the projecting point of land on the opposite side of Wyre has been known from time immemorial. In early days there were both the “Great and Little Knots,” or heaps of stones, but the works carried out for the improvement of the harbour involved the destruction of the small, and mutilation of the big “Knot.” Now arises the question, why were these round collections of boulder stones called “Knots?” In answer to which it may be stated that the word “knot” is of pure Scandinavian origin, and in that ancient Northern language always marked a round heap, and we believe also a round heap of stones. This interpretation would be characteristic of what these knots or mounds of stones were before they were despoiled by the Wyre Harbour Company. Such an application of the word to rounded hills of stone is common at no great distance, and must have been applied by the same people to all these rocky elevations, as instance Hard Knot, Arnside Knot, and Farlton Knot, all of which indicate the name by the rotundity of their stony summits, and seem to confirm the opinion that the early inhabitants of Scandinavia visited the coast, suggesting also that they had some settlement in its immediate vicinity.

As regards the Romans, the only traces of their presence which have been discovered in the neighbourhood of the town, consist of the road above mentioned, and a number of ancient coins which were found near Rossall, in 1840, by some labourers engaged in brick-making. These coins, amounting in all to about three hundred, were principally of silver, and bore the impresses of Severus, Sabina, Antonius, Nerva, etc. It is quite possible, however, that other relics belonging to that nation or the Danes, may still exist, hidden by the sand, and more deeply imbedded than it is necessary to sink when preparing for the foundations of the houses, whilst many also may have been submerged by the encroaching waves as they have gradually inundated the north and west sides of the district.

Doctor Leigh, in his Natural History of Lancashire, informs us that at the mouth of the river Wyre there was in his time a purging water which sprang up from out of the sand. “This, no doubt,” says the Doctor, “is the sea-water which filters through the sand, but by reason of the shortness of its filtration (the spring lying so near the river), or the looseness of the sand, the marine water is not perfectly dulcified, but retains a pleasing brackishness, not unlike that which is observable in the milk of a farrow cow, or one that has conceived.”

To the lord of the manor, Sir P. H. Fleetwood, is due the credit of having first conceived the idea of converting the sterile warren into a thriving seaport. Situated at the mouth of a river, the security of whose stream had originated the proverb—“As safe and as easy as Wyre water,” and by the side of a natural and commodious harbour, sheltered from ever wind, the illustrious baronet foresaw a prosperous future for the place, could he obtain permission from parliament to construct a railway to its shores from the important town of Preston, thereby creating a communication with the manufacturing and commercial centres of Lancashire and Yorkshire. In 1835, a number of gentlemen, denominated the Preston and Wyre Railway, Harbour, and Dock Company, having obtained the requisite powers, deputed Frederick Kemp, esq., J.P., of Bispham Lodge, then acting as agent to Sir P. H. Fleetwood, to purchase the land along the proposed route. Operations were commenced with little delay, the work progressed with fair rapidity, and on the 15th of July, 1840, the line was declared open and ready for traffic.

In the meantime dwelling-houses, hotels, and a spacious wharf had been springing into existence. In 1836 the earliest foundation was laid at the south-west corner of Preston Street by Robert Banton, of East Warren Farm. This farm was for a short season a licensed house and brewery, and is now, under the title of Warrenhurst, the private residence of J. M. Jameson, esq., C.E. The new erection, which still bears its original name of the Fleetwood Arms Hotel, made no further progress for about a year, when it was completed by Thomas Parkinson, the head carpenter at Rossall Hall. The first building finished and inhabited in Fleetwood was a beer-house at the south-west corner of Church Street, which was erected in 1836-7, and is now a shop, owned and occupied by Richard Warbrick, outfitter. That small inn or licensed dwelling was in the occupation of a person named Parker, a stonemason, who a little later built the Victoria Hotel, in Dock-street, where he removed and resided for several months, until a sale of the property had been effected.

The streets were marked out by the plough according to the design of Decimus Burton, esq., architect, of London, and so arranged that all the principal thoroughfares, with the exception of the main road of entrance to the town, converged towards the largest star-hill, now known as the Mount, on the highest point of which was placed a small decagon Chinese edifice, surrounded by a raised platform or terrace, whence an extensive view of the broad bay of Morecambe, the lofty ranges of Lancashire, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, and a wide circuit of the neighbouring country could be obtained. The hollow on the south side of the mound was fashioned into the form of a basin, and a semicircular gravelled walk carried along the ridge of each side, leading with a gentle ascent from the entrance gates on the warren at the end of London Street to the summit, whilst the slopes were tastefully arranged and planted with shrubs, to impart a pleasing and ornamental appearance to the otherwise bare sward. These shrubs, as might have been foreseen, speedily withered and perished, owing to the bleakness of the site, and a lack of that indispensable moisture which the dry sandy soil could neither retain nor supply. In earlier days the Mount was commonly known as Tup, or Top, Hill, and formed a favourite resort for pic-nic parties from Blackpool, or some of the surrounding villages, which visited the place during the summer months, to admire the innumerable sea-fowl and their nests, the latter being scattered over the shore in endless profusion.