I cannot, however, allow the volume to go to Press without again tendering thanks to my former Editor and present friend, Mr Leo. Weinthal, of The African World, for the opportunity given to carry out the expedition and for allowing me to incorporate in these pages matter printed in his paper; Sir Walter Egerton and Sir Hesketh Bell, ex-Governors respectively of Southern and Northern Nigeria, for the letters of introduction which proved an open sesame to the good-will of the high officials administrating each colony; Mr F. Seton James, C.M.G., and Mr A. G. Boyle, C.M.G., both of whom in the course of my stay were in turn Acting Governors of Southern Nigeria; Mr F. W. Waller, Acting General Manager, Lagos Government Railway; Mr Charles L. Temple, C.M.G., Acting Governor of Northern Nigeria; Captain G. C. Kelly, temporarily in command of the 1st Battalion Northern Nigeria Regiment; Captain C. F. S. Maclaverty, in charge of the Battery; Mr C. Maclean, Agent of the Niger Company at Zungeru; Mr E. M. Bland, Deputy Director of Railways, Northern Nigeria; Mr Joseph E. Trigge, Managing Director of the Niger Company; the late Mr Walter Watts, its Agent General; Mr Robert Lenthall, also Agent General of same Company; Mr W. P. Byrd, and Captain J. J. Brocklebank, D.S.O., of Kano, and also my native friends of that city, Adamu Ch’Kardi and Suly; Mr F. Beckles Gall, Resident at Naragutu; Mr F. D. Bourke, Manager of Naragutu Tin Mine; Mr S. E. M. Stobart, Resident at Bukuru; Mr T. H. Driver, Manager of the Anglo-Continental Mines; Mr A. C. Francis, Acting Resident at Zaria; Major E. M. Baker, temporarily in command of the 2nd Battalion Northern Nigeria Regiment; Mr W. H. Hibbert, of Lokoja; Mr Bertram D. Byfield, Cantonment Magistrate there; and Mr A. E. Price, of Burutu. Although not strictly within the scope of this book, I add Mr J. B. McDowell, Managing Director of the British and Colonial Kinematograph Company, who gave special care and attention to the apparatus and material which enabled me to bring back unique moving pictures of people in whose country no instrument of the kind had ever been taken.
J. R. R.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| CHAPTER I OUTWARD BOUND | |
| Call of the Coast—Mal-de-mer—Coasters afloat—From 78° to 90°—The Kru sailor—His civilised degeneration—Laundryman’s discipline—A dangerous stretch—The skipper—From ship to train | [1] |
| CHAPTER II FROM THE COAST BY TRAIN—THE WEST AFRICAN PULLMAN | |
| Iddo Wharf—Strange sights and thoughts—Umbrellas—“Niggers”—Train luxuries—Liquor permits—The iron-horse at the Niger—Ferry and bridge—Budget details | [12] |
| CHAPTER III ZUNGERU—THE CAPITAL OF THE PROTECTORATE | |
| A garden-city Capital—“Ikey” square—Autocracy thorough—Circumscribed accommodation and doubled-up quarters—Young administrators—Strict, stern, severe economy—The Governor’s “Palace”—Job-lot furniture—His Excellency’s 1s.-an-hour, Bank-Holiday motor-car—Pooh-Bah Cantonment Magistrate | [19] |
| CHAPTER IV ZUNGERU—THE CAPITAL OF THE PROTECTORATE—(continued) | |
| Native settlement—Rents and Treasury—A model prison—Northern Nigeria Constabulary—Mails paid time-work—Sport at the door—Up-country and Coast natives—Selection of Zungeru—The future Capital | [33] |
| CHAPTER V ZUNGERU TO KANO | |
| Everybody his own porter—Religion and missions—Divining water—Carriages patchy in parts—Native passengers—In the track of the slave-raider—Engine sustenance—Kaduna Bridge—A tight-rope performance—Close cultivation—“The lazy negro”—Two civilisations—At Kano | [43] |
| CHAPTER VI ARRIVAL AT KANO | |
| Plans and expectations—Small water-famine—The handy man—Change of quarters—Ants as sauce—Niger Company | [57] |
| CHAPTER VII FASHIONS, GOVERNMENT, ADMINISTRATION | |
| An Empire builder—The country and population—Hausa tribes—Moslem and Pagan—Sartorial distinctions—Ruling through natives—Election of their own rulers—Lugard’s peaceful persuasion—A modern Earl of Warwick—The genius of Taubman Goldie and Lugard—Native administration—Residents—Taxation—Law Courts | [63] |
| CHAPTER VIII KANO PROVINCE AND CITY—BRITISH TRADE PROSPECTS | |
| Town and country—Officials and traders—Belgravia and Bermondsey—A housekeeping budget—European stores—Buying and selling—A Syrian in the fold | [72] |
| CHAPTER IX A GENTLEMAN ADVENTURER | |
| The London and Kano Trading Company—The Captain intervenes—Army, Civil Service, Commerce—Discarding appearances—Contrast of mansions—The pleasure of business—“Traders” and others | [80] |
| CHAPTER X KANO CITY | |
| The founder—Hunter and prophet, too—The city wall—Warfare and slave hunts—Provocation and defiance to the British—The Emir’s challenge—March on the city—First check—Renewed attempt—Entry—A new ruler | [86] |
| CHAPTER XI KANO CITY—(continued) | |
| Houses and rents—From 1s. 6d. to £5 a year—Mud mansions—No. 1 Kano—When to build and repair—Advice on building—A contract and a surprise | [93] |
| CHAPTER XII KANO MARKET | |
| A cosmopolitan rendezvous—Arab merchants—The desert route and the iron-horse—War and commerce—Local industries—Arts and crafts—Skilled workers—Camels, cattle, sheep, horses—Pitiful brute suffering—An appeal | [100] |
| CHAPTER XIII KANO MARKET AND CITY—(continued) | |
| Deference to the Englishman—A sagacious policy—Administration of justice—An Alkali’s judgment—The native Treasury—Kano municipality—Money matters | [112] |
| CHAPTER XIV SOME ASPECTS OF SOCIAL LIFE | |
| Wives of the upper-class—Women and the mosques—Polygamy—Its difficulties in the home-circle—How to maintain peace—Hints on management of the feminine character—A domestic diplomat—Slavery—The former and the present position—Status of a slave | [119] |
| CHAPTER XV THE MISSIONARY QUESTION | |
| Missions and Moslems—Strong comments—Bearings of the situation—Present practice—The British solemn promise—The alternative | [125] |
| CHAPTER XVI THE BAUCHI LIGHT RAILWAY | |
| Zaria and other stations—The two gauges—Through new country—Second-hand rails—A new post for Sir Frederick Lugard—A relic of tribal warfare—Sport for the gun—A derailment—Blend of tongues—Smart re-railing work | [130] |
| CHAPTER XVII AT RAHAMA RAILHEAD | |
| Engaging carriers—How to facilitate getting away—Hausa horse coupers and political economy—Bullock transport—Donkey carriage—The man who belies a fable | [139] |
| CHAPTER XVIII ON TREK—RAHAMA TO JUGA | |
| Heavyweight and overweight—The white barred—Collective displeasure—Getting off—A doki boy—Tin-mine pilgrims—A scion of royalty—The rest-house—Village elders—Acrobatic horsemanship—The carriers—Headman Hanza—Over the edge of the Pagan belt | [ 146] |
| CHAPTER XIX RAHAMA TO JUGA—(continued) | |
| Stopped by a stream—A volunteer—Amadu the carrier—Sun heat—Across the river—“Kow abinshi”—The doki boy’s experiment—The climate and granite—Domestic details on trek—A chilling downpour—Mark Tapleys—Sun and warmth—Hanza’s command—A dignified procession | [156] |
| CHAPTER XX JUGA TO NARAGUTA | |
| Native feminality and the cavalry spirit—Scarcity and economy—A house of straw—Carriers, professional and other—Diversified panorama—Parting with the first carriers | [169] |
| CHAPTER XXI TWO SHORT JOURNEYS | |
| Man proposes—A narrow river barrier—Travellers this side of the stream; beds, the other side—Pagan cultivation—A postal description—Headmen and Headmen—Gotum Karo | [175] |
| CHAPTER XXII THE NIGER COMPANY’S JOS CENTRE | |
| Jos and St Peter’s—A wet and dry object—Fashion in stationery—Smoking and writing materials—The cost of money—Coin in transit—Tin-mine labourers and food—Inception of European transport—Linguistic stimulus and aptitude—Donkey caravans—The animals’ acumen—Double-distilled philosophy | [181] |
| CHAPTER XXIII MINES—MEDICAL | |
| Tin-mining—First Exclusive Prospecting Licence—Early tin-winning—Mr Law’s work—Health and economics—Feminine nursing—The medical service | [194] |
| CHAPTER XXIV A MURDER TRIAL | |
| Mining licences and leases—The Government Inspector of Mines—Nine years without doors—Two Residents—Poisoned arrow welcome—A murder trial | [202] |
| CHAPTER XXV TROUBLES OF THE TREK | |
| Philosophers’ test—At the back of white men’s minds—Human calculations—Blows to plans—Oje leaves—The servant problem—Short, severe rations—Doki boy Kolo—A Pagan pony—Its performances—Injury to insult—Human and equine elements | [209] |
| CHAPTER XXVI INCIDENTS ON TREK | |
| The changed seasons—End of the rainy season—Bush fires—Rolling downs and kopjes—A 25-miles march without food or drink—Return journey commenced—Ascent of the escarpment, 2,200 feet—A Hausa and Pagan affray—An ugly situation | [221] |
| CHAPTER XXVII INCIDENTS ON TREK—(continued) | |
| Information and advice in West Africa—Different men, different manners—Ritz by comparison—A Samaritan by the way—Dried streams—Primitive transport—A visitor from Rhodesia—Omitting anti-fever precautions | [230] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII CLOSE OF THE TREK | |
| Character of carriers—The only blow given—Native grooms’ monetary transactions—Material for a cause célèbre—Dispensing justice on the road—Headman Dan Sokoto—Dan’s sharp practices—A long march | [237] |
| CHAPTER XXIX TOWARDS THE PAGAN COUNTRY | |
| Hausa and Pagan—Distinction of dress—Deeper divisions—The price of peace in former days—Public highway—Revenge and brotherhood—Scope of an Assistant Resident | [243] |
| CHAPTER XXX IN A PAGAN TOWN | |
| Bukuru Residency—Bukuru town—Its ingenious defences—Traps for an attacking force—The blacksmith—Musical instruments—Pagan orchestras—A royal male Pavlova—The Court band—A King’s reward—Pagan homesteads—The sleeping apartment—Farming—Incentives to obtain, money—Enhancing nature’s charms—Male and female decorations—Bareback and bitless horsemanship—Races—Care of horses—The hunt—Sign language | [247] |
| CHAPTER XXXI ADMINISTERING JUSTICE AND TAXATION | |
| Direct rule—Cases in a Resident’s Court—Wife and “another man”—Trial by ordeal—Modification of that method—Kidnapping for slaves—“The liberty of the subject”—Extenuating circumstances and even-handed justice—Benefits that are not welcomed—The joy of fighting—Graduated taxation—How to express numerals to people who have no such terms—Two tax collectors—First lessons in administration | [260] |
| CHAPTER XXXII MARRIAGE AND DEATH CUSTOMS | |
| Fashions—A wedding-ring warning—The former way with undesirables—Succession to a Chief ship—Marriage—Dowries—A perpetual leap-year—Widows—Burial usages—Cannibalism—Eating those who die from natural causes—Etiquette of the practice—A credit and debit account | [269] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII SOLDIERS AND THEIR SPORTS | |
| British-trained troops—Little-known Mr Atkins—Swearing-in recruits—Hausa and Pagan oaths—Native priests on active service—Number of wives allowed—Artillery on men’s heads—Gun drill—Dipping for toroes—Mounted infantry—Signalling tuition—Teaching the band—Inculcating self-reliance—The military classification of white civilians | [278] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV ZARIA CITY AND PROVINCE | |
| Prominence of Zaria—As a produce and trading centre—The gold discoveries—Opposite deductions—Model, native town-planning—Various taxes | [291] |
| CHAPTER XXXV THE BARO-KANO RAILWAY | |
| Emir’s assent—Compensation for palm trees—A locomotive’s food—Engine whistling preferred to Caruso—Official opening—Natives’ curiosity—A Mallam’s impressions—Horse v. train | [299] |
| CHAPTER XXXVI BARO ON THE NIGER | |
| Baro port—A Selfridge-Whiteley 400 miles up the Niger—London frock-coats in West Central Africa—Fretwork and ladies’ garments—An untutored eye and its guide—The rat a table delicacy—Oje’s local patriotism—Baro and Jebba; hygienic problems—A superfluous hospital | [306] |
| CHAPTER XXXVII LOKOJA | |
| First stage down the Niger—Lokoja’s past—The discovery of the brothers Lander—Previous theories—McGregor Laird’s enterprise—Eighty per cent. mortality—The 1841 expedition—Richardson, Barth and Overweg—Laird’s second endeavour—The House of Commons scuttle policy—Its reversal—First Fulani battle—Imperial control—Commerce of Lokoja—Vessels at the beach—Loading boats—Freedom of contract | [312] |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII LOKOJA—(continued) | |
| A cosmopolitan town—A Baron Haussman—The Cantonment Magistrate—Some of his duties—Expenditure and economy—King Abigah—A plea for generosity—The hospitals—A black Bishop’s legacy—The missionary question—Critics and the converse | [324] |
| CHAPTER XXXIX NAVIGATING THE NIGER | |
| Rise and fall—A tideless stream—Comfort afloat—The uncertain river—Nasaru the Pilot—Altered channels—When aground—Breakdown of machinery and smart repair—Tropical scenery—The crocodiles’ rest—Riverside villages—Where money is ignored—Estimation for old bottles and tins—Harmattan fog—An island trading station—Hazard and skill to maintain a time-table | [334] |
| CHAPTER XL BURUTU | |
| A port in a swamp—Training native engineers—A composite village—Social grades—Medical provision—Mr John Burns on a Nigerian river—Back to the sea | [348] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| A Gateway in the Wall of Kano | [Frontispiece] | |
| The Rt. Hon. Sir George Taubman Goldie, Founder of Nigeria | Facing page | [64] |
| One of the Emir’s Trumpeters | ” | [78] |
| Native Skin-merchants with Transport, Kano | ” | [78] |
| Captain J. J. Brocklebank, D.S.O. | ” | [82] |
| The Premises of the London and Kano Trading Company at Kano | ” | [82] |
| Sir Frederick Lugard, D.S.O., First Governor of Northern Nigeria | ” | [92] |
| Houses in Kano City. The cheapest type, rent 1s. 6d. a year | ” | [94] |
| Houses in Kano City. A detached dwelling, rent 1s. 9d. a year | ” | [94] |
| House in Kano City, rent 2s. 6d. a year | ” | [96] |
| No. 1 Kano. The houses in the city are numbered to facilitate taxation | ” | [96] |
| An Arab Merchant who trades from the Shores of the Mediterranean to Kano | ” | [102] |
| Ex Sergt.-Major Dowdu, a Beri-Beri from Bornu | ” | [102] |
| The Magistrate’s Court in the Market. His worship is on the steps | ” | [108] |
| A Detachment of the Emir’s Police | ” | [108] |
| A Corner of Kano Market. Note the stocks | ” | [112] |
| A Section of the Market with Open-air Stalls | ” | [112] |
| The Principal Mosque | ” | [114] |
| An Entrance to the Courtyard of the Emir’s Palace | ” | [114] |
| The Royal Courts of Justice | ” | [116] |
| The Native Treasury, known as the Beit-el-Mal | ” | [116] |
| A Street in Kano | ” | [118] |
| Doctor’s Shop in the Market | ” | [118] |
| Hausa Woman-trader. Her clothes are silk and her rings silver | ” | [120] |
| A Hausa Belle | ” | [120] |
| Tureg Traders from Lake Chad. They are reformed robbers | ” | [122] |
| Abigah (seated) and his Two Wives | ” | [122] |
| “Zaki!”—Natives giving the usual salute to a white man | ” | [128] |
| Respect to the Aged is shown by removing the Shoes and Curtsying | ” | [128] |
| The Religion of the Mohamedan forbids the use of soap, as it contains fat. Shaving therefore is done with the aid of water only | ” | [138] |
| Specimen of the Barber’s Art | ” | [138] |
| Carriers ready to start | ” | [168] |
| A Bridge which is swept away by the stream each year during the wet season | ” | [168] |
| A Government Rest-house | ” | [174] |
| The Headman’s House at Toro, where the Author slept | ” | [174] |
| Approach to a Pagan Town. A maze of impenetrable cactus | ” | [248] |
| A Pagan Homestead, built against a rock to prevent rear attacks | ” | [248] |
| Pagan Farmer using his only implement, a spade-hoe | ” | [250] |
| The King of the Jarawa Pagans dancing in Honour of the Author’s Visit. The accompaniment is by his Court band in State uniform | ” | [250] |
| A Naked Pagan riding his pony barebacked | ” | [256] |
| Pagan Horsemen | ” | [256] |
| Bukuru Sign Language | ” | [258] |
| Mr S. E. M. Stobart, the Resident at Bukuru, and His Staff | ” | [268] |
| Bukuru Residency | ” | [268] |
| Pagan Feminine Fashions | ” | [270] |
| A Pagan Beauty of the Dass Tribe | ” | [272] |
| A Girl of the Jarawa Tribe. The cuts in the face are made when she reaches the age of puberty | ” | [272] |
| Jarawa Pagans. The marks are produced by the flesh being cut and charcoal placed in the incision | ” | [276] |
| Signalled message | Page | [290] |
| A Beri-Beri Woman with an elaborate headdress | Facing page | [290] |
| Swearing in a Pagan and a Mohamedan for the Northern Nigeria Regiment | ” | [290] |
| Hausa Boy playing the molah, a kind of banjo | ” | [298] |
| Fiddle with Strings and Bow of Horse-hair rubbed with Gum | ” | [298] |
| Hausa House-Building with Grass. The foundation | ” | [310] |
| The Finished Mansion. It is put up, including cutting the grass, in a couple of hours | ” | [310] |
| Manicure. The fee is twenty cowries, i.e., about one-fourteenth of a penny | ” | [338] |
| A Nupé Pilot on the Niger | ” | [338] |
| A European Trading Station on the Niger | ” | [342] |
| On a Creek of the Niger | ” | [342] |
| The Niger Company’s Wharf at Burutu | ” | [348] |
| Shipping Palm-oil for Direct Transit to Liverpool | ” | [348] |