Object and plan of the Expedition—Equipment at York Factory—Boats—Crews—Articles useful in an Arctic Voyage—Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson Rivers—Departure from York Factory—Progress retarded by the ice—First night at sea—Reflections—Rupert's Creek—Unbroken fields of ice—Broad River—Description of the Coast—Double Cape Churchill—Open sea to the north and north-west—Arrive at Churchill—White whales—Mode of catching them—Sir George Simpson's instructions—Stock of provisions

[1]

CHAPTER II.

Depart from Churchill—A gale—Anchor in Knap's Bay—Land on an island—Esquimaux graves—Visited by Esquimaux—A large river running into Knap's Bay—Nevill's Bay—Corbet's Inlet—Rankin's Inlet—Cape Jalabert—Greenland whales seen—Chesterfield Inlet—Walruses—Cape Fullerton—Visited by an Esquimaux—Reefs—Cape Kendall seen—Ice packed against the shore—Take shelter in an excellent harbour—River traced—Seals—Gale—Ice driven off—Direction of the tides reversed—Whale Point—Many whales seen—Again stopped by the pack—Wager River estuary—Ice drifts—Eddy currents—No second opening into Wager River seen—Enter Repulse Bay—Interview with Esquimaux—No intelligence of Sir John Franklin

[19]

CHAPTER III.

Receive a visit from a female party—Their persons and dress described—Crossing the Isthmus—Drag one of the boats up a stream—Succession of rapids—North Pole Lake—Find a plant fit for fuel—Christie Lake—Flett Portage—Corrigal Lake—Fish—Deer-scaring stones—White wolf—Stony Portage—View of the sea—Exploring party sent in advance—Their report—Long Portage—Difficult tracking—Miles Lake—Muddy Lake—Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its banks—Marmot burrows—Salt Lake—Visit Esquimaux tents—Discouraging report of the state of the ice—Esquimaux chart—Reach the sea—Ross inlet—Point Hargrave—Cape Lady Pelly—Stopped by the ice—Put ashore—Find a sledge made of ship-timber—Thick fog—Wolves—Walk along the shore—Remains of musk-cattle and rein-deer—Nature of the coast—Danger from the ice—Irregular rise of the tide—Deer on the ice—Fruitless efforts to proceed northward—Cross over to Melville Peninsula—Gale—Again stopped by the ice—Dangerous position of the boat—Return to starting point—Meeting with our Esquimaux friends at Salt Lake—Deer begun to migrate southward—Walk across the isthmus to Repulse Bay

[38]

CHAPTER IV.

State of things at Repulse Bay—Determine to discontinue the survey till the spring—Reasons—Party sent to bring over the boat—Fix on a site for winter residence—Ptarmigan—Laughing geese—Eider and king ducks—Visits of natives too frequent—Return of the party sent for the boat—Report the bay more closely packed than before—Preparations for wintering—Fort Hope built—Proceed to North Pole and Christie Lakes to look out for fishing stations—Purchase dogs—Wariness of the deer—Flocks of geese pass southward—Blue-winged and snow-geese—Their habits—Snow-storm—Its effects—Return to Fort Hope—Daily routine—Signs of winter—Deer numerous—Quantity of game killed—Provision-store built of snow—Great fall of snow—Effects of the cold—Adventure with a deer—Visited by a party of natives—Their report of the ice westward of Melville Peninsula—An island said to be wooded—Produce of the chase in October—Temperature—Two observatories built of snow—Band of wolves—A party caught in a snow-storm—Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies—Temperature of November—Diminished supply of provisions