There are glaciers that lie in hollows on the mountain side, and here and there push little moraines before them in their heavy course down the valleys to the water. A couple reach to the water's edge and throw off tiny icebergs that go drifting about with the tide and wind. Better yet, if one really loves nature, are the storms. Seen from a sailing-vessel in danger of drifting on the rocks that are a hundred leagues from help, the storms are fearsome; but when seen from the deck of a well-found steamer, when wrapped in water-proofs and furs, they are magnificent. The gale goes roaring up the mountain, carrying the snow in fluffy masses to the very crest and hurls it thence in smoky, quivering tongues, 1200 feet into the air. The same phenomenon may be seen on the coast of Greenland, but in the Beagle Channel the mountains are nearer at hand, their sides more precipitous, and the winds fiercer. And then there are the "williwaws" the whalers tell about, the whirling squalls that pick up the water, as the sand is picked up on the plains of New Mexico to form writhing columns a thousand feet high. There is something in the whizz and swish of wind and water, as one of these passes the ship, that stirs the blood as nothing else in nature, short of a tornado or live volcano, can do.
American art students go to Europe to complete their education by copying old-time paintings of apostles—apostles standing erect in a boat not large enough to accommodate their feet without pinching—and then come home to gabble about the beauties of nature. The picture of a saint, regardless of surroundings, may inspire the soul with religious fervor and teach the struggling youth to put that fervor on the canvas, but if one would paint a landscape that will at once thrill the soul with terror and awake it to an appreciation of the wildest scene in nature, let him make studies of the williwaws in the Cape Horn region, with frozen volcanoes vomiting flames of snow for a background.
The Ushuaia sailed out of Buenos Ayres on Wednesday, April 18th. She arrived back on Saturday, June 23d. I should say there is probably no other voyage in the world that a tourist could make in which he would suffer more physical discomforts. The most of these as I saw them were due to the wretched design of the remodelled lighter, but some were inseparable from such a voyage because due to the climate and the distance one goes from civilized communities.
Nevertheless, the liking for North Americans which the Argentines everywhere professed, their hearty efforts to make me comfortable because I was a North American, the delights of visiting the old-time ports and waters of which one reads in the thrilling tales of early exploration, these, with many other things that come to mind, combine to crowd from the memory everything disagreeable, and I can think of the voyage, as a whole, only with the greatest pleasure.
INDEX.
A
Aborigines of Cape Horn, story of, [47] et seq.
"Adobe Money" depreciated, currency of Spanish-American nations, [279]
Adventures in Patagonia, by Titus Coan, [154]
Aguirre Bay (see Spaniard Harbour).
Akers, Mr. C. E., author of Argentine, Patagonian, and Chilian Sketches, [249]
Alaculoof Indians, called Fuegians, [100];
seen by early navigators, [128];
home of, [134];
described by early navigators, [134];
story of aggressiveness of, [134] et seq.;
R. C. Mission to, [136]
Alaska, reference to colony of outlaws in, [67]
Albatross, white, seen off Staten Island, [141];
enormous specimens of, in Patagonia, [209];
eaten by early navigators, [209];
superstition of sailors concerning, [209]
Allen Gardiner (see Mission schooner).
Alluvial banks of Cape Horn region, [7]-21, [295];
beds of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, [64], [125];
cliffs of New Gulf, [171], [268]
American lion (see Panther).
Andes, break in the, in Patagonia, at Gallegos River, [125], [282];
in Tierra del Fuego, from San Sebastian to Useless Bay, [125]
Animals, found in Patagonia, [184] et seq., [194]-200;
of the desert, able to live without water, [200]
Anson, Admiral, description of land of the Yahgans by, [49]
Ansorge, Herr Bruno, gold miner at Paramo, [14];
found bit of gold ore, [22];
member of singing club, [267]
Antarctic Highlanders (see Yahgans).
Archipelago of Cape Horn, [47]
Arctic, S. S., wrecked on Cape Virgin, [6]
Arenas, Punta (see under Punta).
Argentine, Capital (see Ushuaia).
Argentine, Government sends engineer to gold region of Patagonia, [7];
establishes settlement at Ushuaia, fearing Chilian encroachment, [101] et seq., [108];
grants land to Mr. Bridges, [121];
transport Ushuaia sails for Staten Island, [138] (see Ushuaia);
generous to Welsh colonists, [174] et seq.;
depressed condition of currency of, [221];
hospitality shown on pampas of, [256];
naval transports of, [260];
great consumption of maté in, [271];
prepares Santa Cruz as base of operations, [276];
Lake, traces of gold at, [278];
land system discourages small owners, [280];
connected with other lakes by navigable channels, [280];
population on border line of, friendly to Chili, [282];
difficulty of obtaining justice in, [282]
Argentine, Patagonian, and Chilian Sketches, by Mr. C. E. Akers, [249]
Armadillo, prey of panther, [195];
two varieties of, [198];
interesting habits of, [198] et seq.;
methods of killing snakes, [199];
delicious article of food, [199];
not found south of Santa Cruz River, [199];
grubs for worms, [199];
methods of catching mice, [199];
robs nests, [199];
suggestion as to importation of, into United States, [200]
Arms, Mr., sent to Patagonia with Rev. Mr. Coan, [154]
Asado, or beef roasting, by gauchos, [229]
Asses' Ears, point of New Island, [16], [17]
Axes, of Yahgans, shell, [57]-59 (see Yahgans).
B
Baccarat, favorite game in Punta Arenas, [44]
Backhausen, Herr Carlos, gold miner at Paramo, [14]
Bala College, [169]
Banner Cove (see Picton Island).
Baptists at Frondrey, [177]
Barrancas, vertical earth banks, [21];
perpendicular alluvial banks, [295]
Bars, number of licensed, in Punta Arenas, [40]
Beagle Channel, Ushuaia in, [15];
ranch of Mr. Bridges on, [62];
milder climate of, [117];
charming scenery, [117];
profits of ranching on, [119], [122];
market for products, [120], [138]
Beech, Antarctic, trees of Fuegian Islands, [50]
Beer made at Quilmes, [244]
Bell snake, gaucho term for rattlesnake, [246]
Benfield, Mr. Theo., story of wonderful find by, [21] et seq.
Berberis, berry of thorn bush, [76];
medicinal decoction of, [134]
Big Feet, name given to Tehuelches, [173]
Birds, of Patagonia, [201]-214;
interesting to sportsmen, [206];
interesting to naturalists, [208];
in North Patagonia migrate farther south, [210];
thirteen Arctic varieties of, migrate to Patagonia, [210];
and insects, [173]
Bolas, weapons used by Ona Indians, [59];
"the lost," used by Tehuelche Indians, [164];
used in hunting panthers, [194];
how to make them, [235];
how to use them, [235];
effective weapons, [235]
Bongos, canoes of Bay of Panama, [55]
Bougainville, M., [150];
French explorer, [260]
Bows and arrows, weapons of Onas, [129], [296];
weapons of Tehuelches, [164], [296]
Brecknock Pass, [15]
Bridges, Rev. Thomas, describes Yahgan canoes, [55];
compiles grammar of Yahgan language, [62];
descriptions of Yahgan character, [66];
descriptions of Yahgan cooking, [76];
first arrival at Keppel Island, [85];
learns Yahgan language, [87];
becomes a missionary, [90];
labors among Yahgans, [91];
reports condition of Ushuaia, [93] et seq.;
method of solving Hidugalahgoon's matrimonial troubles, [94];
picture of life at the station, [97];
turns ranchman, [118];
home of, on Beagle Channel, [118];
family of, [119];
profits of ranching, [119];
how ranch was obtained, [120];
extract of lecture in Buenos Ayres, [121];
charges against, [122];
land of, belonged to Yahgans, [124];
safe journey of, through Ona country, [133]
Buenos Ayres, excitement in, over gold discoveries, [8];
Mr. Bridges lectures in, [120];
Mentions of, "the Athens of South America," 248, [252];
Ushuaia starts from, [261];
hard biscuit of, [275];
Ushuaia returns to, [299]
Bunch Grass, [178];
seed, [157];
eaten by Indians and gauchos, [238]
Burleigh, Rev. Mr., at mission station, Tekenika Bay, [104]
Button, Jemmy, a Yahgan, taken to England by Darwin, [62];
goes to Keppel Island, [85];
conduct towards his fellows, [99]
C
Cabbages, size of, at Ushuaia, [115];
grown at Punta Arenas, [289]
Cape Horn (see Horn).
Cape Virgin (see Virgin).
Canoes of Yahgans, [54]-57
Caramba, use of the word, [231]
Caranchos, species of vulture, [162];
abundant, [212];
aid panther hunters, [213]
Carmen de Patagones, Spanish colony on Rio Negro, [152];
paid tribute to natives, [152]
Cattle and sheep raising conducive to over-hospitality, [254] et seq.
Celery, wild, found in Fuego, a delicate vegetable, [49]
Centenera, Del Barco, Spanish writer, [192]
Channels, labyrinthian, of Cape Horn, [25]
Cheenah, Indian squaw, [147] et seq.
Chico River, [280]
Chili, takes possession of Port Famine and the Straits of Magallanes, [27];
renames Port Famine, [28];
depressed condition of currency of, [221];
justice to be had in, [282]
Chiloé, island of, [4]
Chisels, wooden, [59] (see Yahgans).
Chubut, Welsh colony settled at, [168];
hardships of colony at, [171] et seq.;
foes of the desert, [173];
area and population of, [177];
railroad constructed from, to New Gulf, [179], [269];
Welsh colony of, [252];
tramp element in Welsh colony of, [256]
Chubut River, [33], [168], [173]
Chwaites, II. V., Captain of the Ushuaia, [263], [285];
a fine sportsman, [288];
hunting guanacos with bolas, [288]
Clark, Mr. William, ranchman at Gallegos, [225], [256] et seq.
Climate of Cape Horn region, [23];
of Punta Arenas, [46], [91];
of land of Yahgans, [49], [53];
12° below zero the coldest, [52];
of Gallegos, peculiarity of, [286]
Coan, Rev. Mr. Titus, theological student, [154];
sent to Patagonia, [154];
experiences in, [154];
author of Adventures in Patagonia, [154];
found runaway sailors among Tehuelches, [258]
Cockburn Channel, [15], [47];
scenery of, [298]
Colonia de Magallanes, La, or Port Famine, [27];
nicknamed Sandy Point, [28] et seq.;
penal colony established at, [28];
prison burned, [33]
Colony, Welsh (see under Welsh).
Condors, size of, [212];
aids to panther hunters, [213]
Cook, Captain, describes land of the Yahgans, [49];
wild celery, [49];
sailors of, find albatross good eating, [209];
early navigator, [260]
Coots found on Chubut River, [173]
Cordilleras, wild cattle hunting in, [31];
snow-capped peaks of, [34], [224];
Gallegos River rises in, [282]
Cormorants found in Patagonia, [208]
Coypu, hunted for fur, good eating, [197];
aquatic 'possum, or species of beaver, [197];
peculiar formation of, [197]
Cripple Creek, [140]
Cruz, Santa, River (see under Santa).
Cuerpo de Bomberos, gambling club in Punta Arenas, [44]
Curios to be found in Patagonia, [43], [293]-297
Currency of Argentina and Chili, depressed condition of, [221];
value of gold and paper, [222]
D
Darwin, Sound, [15];
Mt., peak of coast range on Tierra del Fuego, [47]
Darwin, Charles, the naturalist, describes Yahgans, [62];
takes Jemmy Button to England, [62];
explores Santa Cruz River, [169];
opinion of Patagonia, [183];
misstatements concerning guanacos, [185];
mentions black-faced Ibises, [211]
Dandelions thrive in the desert, [157]
Deer, found in forests of Andes, [198];
destroy desert snakes, [198]
Denominational churches in Welsh colony, [177]
Deserts of Patagonia, [157];
inhospitable region, [157];
springs far apart, [157];
well adapted to guanacos and ostriches, [157];
foes of the, [173];
bushes of the, [183], [232];
snakes of, destroyed by deer, [198];
similar to desert regions of United States, [199];
armadilloes thrive in, [199];
animals of, able to live without water, [200];
ostrich hunting in, [204] et seq.;
silence of the, [212], [232];
fascination of, [227], [232];
sparrow of the, [232]
Desire, Port (see under Port).
Desolation Bay, [15]
Diaz, Don Rui, Spanish Captain, [192]
Dido, S. S., sent to Spaniard Harbour, [84]
Dragon fly, called "the son of the southwest gale," [246]
Ducks, uncounted hosts at Cape Horn, [75];
enormous quantities at Staten Island, [140];
near Chubut, [173];
prey of panther, [195];
curiosity of wild, [206];
shooting too easy, [206];
quantities of, in interior, [207];
favorite breeding places, [208];
curious air dance of, [212];
color and curiosity of, off Santa Cruz, [288]
Dugouts, canoes used in Caribbean Sea, [55]
E
Eggs, methods of gathering, [68];
methods of cooking, [76], [238];
panthers eat, [195]; ostrich, [202];
size of ostrich, [238]
Elephants formerly existed in Patagonia, [157]
Elizabeth Island, sheep thrive on, [31]
El Paramo (see Paramo).
Endeavor, Captain Cook's ship, [209]
Eskimos, Yahgans compared with, [49]
Extradition treaty between Chili and Argentine of little value, [286]
F
Fables of Tehuelches, [159] (see Tehuelches).
Falkland Islands, [27], [150], [222]
Famine, Port (see under Port Famine).
Farina, a ground root, [222]
Fauna of Patagonia, [68], [75], [76], [83], [140], [157], [173], [183], [184] et seq., [194] et seq., [198]-200, [206] et seq., [212], [288]
Felis Concolor (see Panther).
Ferns, [45]
Figue, Adolph and Louis, merchants at Ushuaia, [22], [115], [297]
Fish, native methods of catching, [59], [60];
sea filled with, [75], [83]
Fitzroy, Captain, [67], [73], [81]
Flints and agates abound in the Ona country, [132]
Flora of Patagonia, [11], [43], [45], [49], [50], [68], [75], [76], [83], [115], [157], [178], [183], [200], [222], [238], [289]
Flores Island, quarantine station of Uruguay, [228]
Flowers in great profusion in Punta Arenas, [45]
Fossil, mastodon's jaw, [21];
of opossum, kangaroo, and monkey, [64];
in Tierra del Fuego, [125];
of glyptodon, [201], [295]
Fox, gray, flourishes in Patagonia, [198]
"Friend of Man," gaucho term for panther, [246]
Frondrey, village of, [177]
Fruits, small, [76]
Fuegians (see Alaculoof).
Fuegian Islands, mountains of, [50]
Fuego, Tierra del, [7];
placer gold found on, [1], [7], [22];
explored by Popper, [9];
Bay of Port Pantaloons in, [17];
peaks of coast range on, [47];
magnificent vegetation of, [49];
prairies of, [124];
climate and fertility of, [124];
size and shape of island, [125];
contrast to Patagonia, [125];
bones of animals found in, [125];
rainfall and frosts of, [125];
sheep raising introduced into, [126];
the industry spreads, [127];
three Argentine stations in, [127];
origin of name, [128];
ships wrecked on, [254];
Ona Indians of, [296];
scenery through channels of, [298]
Fungus, yellow, vegetable food, [75], [157];
eaten by Indians and gauchos, [238]
Fuschias, [45]
Future Bay, near Punta Arenas, [10]
G
Gable Island, in Beagle Channel, [62];
sheep ranch of Mr. Bridges on, [118]
Gallegos, successful sheep raising in, [216];
ranchmen at, [224] et seq.;
description of ranchmen, [225];
game of cards, corn kernels for chips, [225];
ordinance against tramps in, [255];
the capital of Santa Cruz territory, [281];
location of, [281];
buildings of, like a Yankee mining camp 283;
good cattle country back of, [283];
placer gold mines along coast south of, [283];
size of the capital city, [283];
unattractive appearance of, [283];
every store a hotel, [284];
hotels compared with those of Mexico, [284];
queer boarding-house in, [284] et seq.;
Doña Philomela, the hostess, [284];
occasional arrests and trials in, [286];
government officials of, [286];
Captain of Police in, a cripple, [286];
peculiar climate of, [286];
high winds in, [286];
winter the pleasantest season, [287]
Gallegos River, [14], [16];
probably a strait in former ages, [125];
volcanic mountain peak south of, [157];
parrots found at the heads of, [213];
population between Santa Cruz River and, friendly to Chili, [282];
rises in Cordilleras near Pacific Ocean, [282];
size of, [282];
navigable, [282];
lava beds, [282] et seq.;
perfect pasture land along, [283];
lands south, filled with shepherds, [283];
lack of fuel on north side of, [283];
Captain Chwaites hunts the guanaco with bolas, [288]