Peter Stuyvesant, the Last Dutch Governor of New Amsterdam

by John S. C. Abbott

"There had already been thrown upon it," they write,

"a pail full of Gouanes oysters, which are the best in the
country. They are large, some of them not less than a foot
long, and they grow, sometimes ten, twelve and sixteen
together, and are then like a piece of rock. We had for
supper a roasted haunch of venison which weighed thirty
pounds, and which he had bought of the Indians for fifteen
cents. The meat was exceedingly tender and good and quite
fat. We were served also with wild turkey, which was also
fat and of a good flavor, and a wild goose. Everything we
had was the natural production of the country. We saw lying
in a heap, a hill of watermelons as large as pumpkins. It
was late at night when we went to rest, in a Kermis bed, as
it is called, in the corner of the hearth, alongside of a
good fire."
"The next morning they threaded their way through the
forest, and along the shore to the extreme west end of the
island, where fort Hamilton now stands. They passed through
a large plantation, of the Najack Indians, which was waving
with corn. A noise of pounding drew them to a place where a
very aged Indian woman was beating beans out of the pods
with a stick, which she did with amazing dexterity. Near by
was the little cluster of houses of the dwindling tribe. The
village consisted of seven or eight huts, occupied by
between twenty and thirty Indians, men, women and children.
"These huts were about sixty feet long and fifteen wide. The
floor was of earth. The posts were large limbs of trees,
planted firmly in the ground. The sides were of reeds and
the bark of trees. An open space, about six inches wide, ran
along the whole length of the roof, for the passage of
smoke. On the sides the roof was so low that a man could not
stand under it.
"They build their fire in the middle of the floor, according
to the number of families which live in the hut; not only
the families themselves, but each Indian alone, according as
he is hungry, at all hours morning, noon and night. They lie
upon mats with their feet towards the fire. All in one
house, are generally of one stock, as father and mother,
with their offspring. Their bread is maize, pounded by a
stone, which is mixed with water and baked under the hot
ashes.
"They gave us a small piece when we entered; and although
the grains were not ripe, and it was half-baked and coarse
grains, we nevertheless had to eat it, or at least not throw
it away before them, which they would have regarded as a
great sin, or a great affront. We chewed a little of it with
long teeth, and managed to hide it so that they did not see
it.
"On Wednesday a farmer harnessed his horse to a wagon and
carried them back to the city. The road led through the
forest and over very rough and stony hills, making the ride
quite uncomfortable. Passing again through the little
village of Breukelen, they crossed the ferry and reached
home about noon. On Friday they took an exploring tour
through the island of Manhattan. Their pleasant description
is worth transcribing.
"This island is about seven hours distance in length, but it
is not a full hour broad. The sides are indented with bays,
coves and creeks. It is almost entirely taken up, that is
the land is held by private owners, but not half of it is
cultivated. Much of it is good woodland. The west end, on
which the city lies, is entirely cleared, for more than an
hour's distance, though that is the poorest ground; the best
being on the east and north side. There are many brooks of
fresh water running through it, pleasant and proper for man
and beast to drink; as well as agreeable to behold,
affording cool and pleasant resting places, but especially
suitable places for the construction of mills, for though
there is no overflow of water, it can be used.
"A little east of New Harlaem, there are two ridges of very
high rocks, with a considerable space between them,
displaying themselves very majestically, and inviting all
men to acknowledge in them the grandeur, power and glory of
the Creator, who has impressed such marks upon them. Between
them runs the road to Spuyt den Duyvel. The one to the
north is the most apparent. The south ridge is covered with
earth on its north side, but it can be seen from the water
or from the mainland beyond to the south. The soil between
these ridges is very good, though a little hilly and stony.
It would be very suitable, in my opinion, for planting
vineyards, in consequence of its being shut off on both
sides, from the winds which would most injure them; and it
is very warm. We found blue grapes along the road, which
were very good and sweet, and as good as any I have tasted
in the fatherland.
"We went from the city, following the Broadway, over the
valley or the fresh water. Upon both sides of this way there
were many habitations of negroes, mulattoes and whites. The
negroes were formerly the slaves of the West India Company.
But, in consequence of the frequent changes and conquests of
the country, they have obtained their freedom, and settled
themselves down where they thought proper, and thus on this
road, where they have grown enough to live on with their
families. We left the village called Bowery on the right
hand, and went through the woods to Harlaem, a tolerably
large village situated directly opposite the place where the
northeast creek and the East river come together. It is
about three hours' journey from New Amsterdam."

From the account which these gentlemen give, the morals of the people certainly do not appear to have been essentially better than now. They passed the night at the house of the sheriff. "This house was constantly filled with people all the time drinking, for the most part, that execrable rum. He had also the best cider we have tasted. Among the crowd we found a person of quality, an Englishman, named Captain Carteret, whose father is in great favor with the king. The king has given his father, Sir George Carteret, the entire government of the lands west of the North river in New Netherland, with power to appoint as governor whom he pleases.

"This son is a very profligate person. He married a
merchant's daughter here, and has so lived with his wife
that her father has been compelled to take her home again.
He runs about among the farmers and stays where he can find
most to drink, and sleeps in barns on the straw. If he
conducted himself properly, he could be, not only governor
here, but hold higher positions, for he has studied the
moralities and seems to have been of a good understanding.
But that is all now drowned. His father, who will not
acknowledge him as his son, allows him yearly as much only
as is necessary for him to live on."

Saturday morning they set out from Harlaem village to go to the northern extremity of the island.

"Before we left we did not omit supplying ourselves with
peaches, which grew in an orchard along the road. The whole
ground was covered with them and with apples lying upon the
new grain with which the orchard was planted. The peaches
were the most delicious we had yet eaten. We proceeded on
our way and when we were not far from the point of Spuyt
den Duyvel, we could see on our left the rocky cliffs of
the mainland, and on the other side of the North river these
cliffs standing straight up and down, with the grain just as
if they were antimony.
"We crossed over the Spuyt den Duyvel in a canoe, and paid
nine stivers fare for us three, which was very dear.[12] We
followed the opposite side of the land and came to the house
of one Valentyn. He had gone to the city; but his wife was
so much rejoiced to see Hollanders that she hardly knew what
to do for us. She set before us what she had. We left after
breakfasting there. Her son showed us the way, and we came
to a road entirely covered with peaches. We asked a boy why
he let them lie there and why he did not let the hogs eat
them. He answered 'We do not know what to do with them;
there are so many. The hogs are satiated with them and will
not eat any more.'
"We pursued our way now a small distance, through the woods
and over the hills, then back again along the shore to a
point where an English man lived, who was standing ready to
cross over. He carried us over with him and refused to take
any pay for our passage, offering us at the same time, some
of his rum, a liquor which is everywhere. We were now again
at Harlaem, and dined with the sheriff, at whose house we
had slept the night before. It was now two o'clock. Leaving
there, we crossed over the island, which takes about
three-quarters of an hour to do, and came to the North
river. We continued along the shore to the city, where we
arrived in the evening, much fatigued, having walked this
day about forty miles."

The rather singular record for the next day, which was Sunday, was as follows:

"We went at noon to-day to hear the English minister, whose
service took place after the Dutch service was out. There
were not above twenty-five or thirty people in the church.
The first thing that occurred was the reading of all their
prayers and ceremonies out of the prayer-book, as is done in
all Episcopal churches. A young man then went into the
pulpit, and commenced preaching, who thought he was
performing wonders. But he had a little book in his hand,
out of which he read his sermon which was about quarter of
an hour or half an hour long. With this the services were
concluded; at which we could not be sufficiently
astonished."

Though New York had passed over to British rule, still for very many years the inhabitants remained Dutch in their manners, customs and modes of thought. There was a small stream, emptying into the East river nearly opposite Blackwell's Island. This stream was crossed by a bridge which was called Kissing Bridge. It was a favorite drive, for an old Dutch custom entitled every gentleman to salute his lady with a kiss as he crossed.

The town wind-mill stood on a bluff within the present Battery. Pearl street at that time formed the river bank. Both Water street and South street have been reclaimed from the river. The city wall consisted of a row of palisades, with an embankment nine feet high. Upon the bastions of this rampart several cannon were mounted.