Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit

by John S. Trecartin

A word of caution might well be put in here against buying cheap birds. They are never worth any more than you will pay for them, and many are only fit for eating purposes along with common pigeons.

Our method of shipping birds enables them to arrive in first-class condition over very long distances. The birds are packed in strong, light cases with a partition to separate the males and females. A bag of feed and drinking cup go with each case. Instructions are sent with each order for feeding and watering while in transit.

Your attention must now be given to preparing the pen for the pigeons:—

Close all openings into the aviary and see that the drinking pan or fountain is filled with fresh water. Shake a few tobacco stems loosely in a pile under the window or else in a corner. The grit box should be half filled with a good prepared pigeon grit; Red Cross grit is as good as any and contains all the necessary ingredients for the birds. A little feed should now be put in trough. A small handful for each pair, is sufficient at first.

You are now ready to release the birds. The males are marked with a color band on the right leg and the females on the left leg. Keep a record as you let the birds go to see that each male has a female with a corresponding band. That is, a male bird with a blue band on the right leg must have a female also with a blue band on the left leg. The next chapter will explain the habits of the birds and why they are banded.

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CHAPTER V.

HABITS AND PECULIARITIES.

In the first place, pigeons are monogamous. They must always be kept in even pairs, because they select their mate and very seldom ever change, unless forced to select another mate in a mating coop. Even pairs of pigeons will soon settle down quietly in various nest boxes. They usually keep the same nest boxes and alternate, having squabs first in one side and then the other. After the birds have become accustomed to their quarters and have selected in which nest they are going to start housekeeping, it will not be many days, before they begin to carry stems from the pile on the floor and start their nest. They need no assistance and should not be unnecessarily disturbed until they commence laying. This should occur in about two weeks and then it is advisable to look over the nests twice a week, and see that all new nests are well made and do not resemble a golf tee. Birds sometimes will build a high nest and lay the eggs on the top without any support. It is best to spread out a nest of this kind, after removing the eggs, so as to give a good foundation. Make a slight hollow in the centre of the stems and then replace the eggs, but be sure and see that the nest is firm enough to keep the eggs from sinking in, under the stems.

It is advisable for the beginner to mark very lightly with pencil, on eggs, the date laid. In this way it is very easy to learn the appearance of an egg at different ages, and soon you will be able to discern a bad egg at a glance and remove it, so that the old birds will not waste time sitting on it. Fresh laid eggs are semi-transparent and have a slightly dull appearance. They gradually grow opaque and solid white, with only an air space discernable unless candled. During the third week, the shell will begin to chip and the baby squab will chip a complete circle, in end of egg and gradually work out. One egg will usually hatch a day in advance of the other. This is accounted for by the fact that there is from one to two days between the time the hen lays the eggs. The birds always lay the eggs in pairs, but once in a while two pairs of birds will lay in the same nest and give the impression that four eggs have been laid.