Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it this morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done yesterday for about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak heath rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms of wind and rain we arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn [49] expecting to find some ancient remains in this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon the summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the interference of the Druids to place them in their present position. On enquiring at a cottage near this spot whether there were any carnedds or chromlechs to be seen we exposed ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed a hearty laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.
Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to Bodedern situated on the turnpike road about eight miles from Holyhead. This place did not prepossess us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry accommodations (fol. 83a). However we were obliged to put up with them unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have thrown us nearly a day backward in our march. Having ordered the best the house could afford for dinner we walked nearly a mile along the turnpike road in the direction of Gwindy [50a] when turning off into a field to the left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs [50b] we have yet seen in the island the cap stone measuring four yards and a half long four yards wide and two yards thick [50c] its three supporters each about a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the same height but it does not touch the stone above. Under this cromlech we were informed a whole family who had been ejected from their habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There was another cromlech close at hand but the cap stone had been forced down and rests in a slanting direction against the supporters the top stone of this measured three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its supporters nearly two yards high. An old mansion near the spot was we understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King master of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem to be very much out of repair having been untenanted for some time. Returned about four to our homely dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after retracing my sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the intended bridge over the Menai. This if it ever is put into execution will be a stupendous work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built pretty strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting was first held for the purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban’s tavern when the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great public utility—second—that it appears from the reports and concurrent opinions of several able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon piles with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental (fol. 87a) to the navigation of the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge being erected on that plan, third, that we will support the application made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the said streights agreeable to the above plan. N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards follow the signature of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the first intention was to have constructed one of wood with three swivel bridges for the convenience of vessels passing to and fro. Now according to the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her sails set. God knows whether this plan will ever be brought to perfection but in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder at the projection of any enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were not pleased with our fare much less were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the upper story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards wherein are placed the different beds for the family and strangers. We slept in separate beds it is true, but every word that was said, nor ought that was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to the ear at least as though we had been in the same dormontory. I was unfortunately situated, in having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not being above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at my ear. Different kinds of music resounded from different parts of the room. I bore all this harmonious combination of sounds with the philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when my next neighbour played so violently on the double bass I lost all patience and began knocking with equal violence on the partition between us. This not only awoke him but every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got up grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and (fol. 89a) see who it was who knocked at the door for they imagined it was some traveller who wished to gain admittance. In the course of an hour when the tumult was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide whom I had ordered to call me at half past six.
Wednesday, Decr. 8
We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it was light paying much higher for our miserable entertainment than we had done at any place in the island. First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llandrûgan, [53] situated near Gwindy the halfway house between Beaumaris and Holyhead our host having given us to understand there was a very ancient stone near the church which many travellers went to look at but few could read the inscription. He himself among the rest although he said he was a good schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years could (fol. 90) make nothing of it. On arriving at the spot we found a flat tomb stone to the right of the entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut on its surface:
Reader in me doe thou thyself behold
Wilome full hie but now full low in mould
Bodychens heyr I was my name was John
The second who that sirname fixt upon
Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke
Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake
The day draws on when God me hence shall raise
Amongst his chosen his great name to praise.
On the side nearest the church door:
Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo sexto centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo.
On the opposite side: