We left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback with the design of examining the Celtic remains in the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the inn accompanying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a ride of fifteen miles along the vale of Nantffrancon by Lord Penrhyn’s quarries we came to Moel-don ferry about eleven o’clock when returning our horses by a boy (fol. 22a) (previously sent forward for the purpose from Capel Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our passage across the Menai savoured somewhat of quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other side waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the delay so taking possession of a fisherman’s skiff lying on the beach we rowed to the Island pursuing nearly the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius which event is so particularly described by Tacitus.
On our landing we immediately made the necessary enquiries at a public house for the route we were to pursue and found the places we had noted down lay so wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend them in the course of the day. We accordingly determined on making that our sleeping place and after a slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields to Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called Plâs Goch apparently built in the time of Elizabeth. A little way beyond the house is a natural barrier of rock rising abruptly above the level ground and extending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance of half a mile. Near this place in a meadow the Romans are supposed to have formed their ranks immediately on landing and the field to this day retains the name of Pant y scraffie, or the place of the passage boats. At low tides the channel is not above three or four feet deep so that it might easily have been crossed by the cavalry in the manner described by the Historian and the natural barrier before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at all improbable that it was the first post occupied by the Romans under Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion of the island 1740 years ago. “Igitur Monam insulam, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum adgredi parat, navesque fabricatur plano alveo adversus breve litus (flat bottomed boats to pass over the shallows) et incertum—sic pedes—(the infantry thus passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter undas adnantes equis tramisere.” The cavalry followed the infantry, and by fording and swimming over the deeper channels arrived at the opposite side. Tac. Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes’ walk brought us to Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24a) the generality of Welsh buildings of the kind having a double roof and two bells in the clochti or belfry. A large irregular built mansion [11a] belonging to Mr. Williams who has acquired such immense property in the Pary’s Mines stands close to it. From Llanidan we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half a mile beyond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons formerly had a town but now every trace is lost. Having procured a lad well acquainted with the neighbourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we quickly proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north-west. [11b] At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge of rock (a quarry being now worked beneath) we traced the foundations of four or five circular buildings in a line close to each other each measuring nearly seven yards in diameter. The same gentleman Mr. Rowland describes these as the remains (fol. 26) of British habitations and his opinion seems to be confirmed by some others of a similar form lying in a meadow called Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards from the spot. These latter are surrounded by two quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by forty containing four of these circular foundations the smaller (forty yards by thirty) only two. It is not improbable that some of the Roman soldiers might have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants from their possessions and that the earth works were thrown up by them by way of security.
Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks of a circular work probably formed for the same purpose as that we before noticed at Caerleon and I presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the country people indeed have an idea it was a fortification as our guide informed us it still goes by the name of the Castle. [13a] Whatever it was it does not appear to have been at all connected with the Druidical worship (fol. 26a) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound encompassing the area may be from ten to fifteen feet in height the diameter of the circle sixty yards. This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part of the circle having been destroyed in order to form a cart road makes it more difficult to determine with certainty. On enquiring for some ancient stones noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn we were directed to one standing near a cottage a quarter of a mile to the north-west [13b] of the circus. It was of a lozenge form measuring above three yards in height and two in width. We observed none of equal dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of the cottage there were six each about a yard high placed three and three at equal distances so as to form two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along higher ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref Drw (Druids town) where some of that venerable order are said to have resided. Now the name alone records the circumstance to posterity as there is nothing remaining which can be attributed to so remote a period. But not far distant we were directed to a quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground near the brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants the river Briant). [14a] The outer mound [14b] measures fifty yards by forty and is about five feet in height the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the enclosure we noticed the foundation of another of the circular huts above mentioned and in an angle to the south east appearances of walls and buildings. The course of the river must have altered considerably in aftertimes otherwise the Romans would hardly have chosen so damp a spot even for a temporary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly direction and leaping over the river Briant we regained the higher ground near (fol. 29a) Bodower [15a] house which is at present occupied by a farmer who rents the property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by the sight of a very perfect chromlech standing in a field to the N.W. [15b] of the house. The upper stone terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building and measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep and four wide: this is sustained by three supporters each three feet in height & nearly the same in thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if they were at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be demonstrated by the one before us (as its Pyramidical form is by no means adapted to the purpose. Indeed there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude memorial was erected over the grave of a British princess named Bronwen who flourished in the year of the world 3105!!!!). My sketches being finished we hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian [16a] a mile and a half further before the evening closed in but owing to a mistake of the guide’s we lost our way and wandered about until it grew quite dark. Our disappointment however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by the intelligence we received of some Roman coins in possession of a person at Tre Evan [16b] a cottage we were to pass on our return. The moon having by this time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk to Tre Evan and entering the door made known the purport of our visit to the good lady of the house who readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits of brass money but thinking them of no value had given them her children to play with. On our anxious request through our interpreter for a more exact scruitiny in this important concern she began rumaging a little cupboard and at length produced a counterfeit shilling of William the third which she said was all that she retained of any money. This was a mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in hope a few (fol. 32a) might have escaped the general dispertion. On enquiring how the brass coins came into her possession she informed us that about six years ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round a field near her house he took materials for the purpose from the foundations of some circular buildings (similar to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about two quarts of brass coins. He also dug up a smaller millstone which she still retained in her cottage. On producing it I found it of a close texture and tho’ only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds. This probably belonged to a hand mill as it seems to resemble those I noticed in my excursion along the Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building sufficiently proves that the Romans occupied the premises after the Britons had quitted them. We returned at seven o’clock to Moel-don and supped in company with a young clergyman just appointed to the curacy of the parish. He proved an agreeable companion and gave us some interesting (fol. 33) information regarding the new regulations at Oxford. On retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them altogether the most homely I ever occupied. However as we had made up our minds not to quarrel with trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in oblivion.
