CHAPTER I
1807–1828

PAGE

Birth and boyhood in Norwich—Education—Mymother—Early tastes—First sight of thesea—Public events—Early studies—RomanCatholicism—Friendships—Religious change—TheChristian ministry—College days

[1]–18

CHAPTER II
1828–1832

Fellow-students—Public excitements—Old Houseof Commons—William IV.—Popular preachers in London:Daniel Wilson, Rowland Hill, James Parsons, Irving, Dr.Chalmers—Monthly lectures—Work amongst thepoor—Political excitement

[19]–38

CHAPTER III
1832–1837

First sight of Windsor—Anecdotes of GeorgeIII.—Rev. A. Redford—New chapel andordination—Bishop Selwyn—Funeral of WilliamIV.—Queen Victoria’s coronation andwedding—Chaplainship to a Highland regiment—EtonMontem—Windsor Auxiliary to BibleSociety—Queen’s patronage—Windsor a centuryago—Eton Institute—Early friendships

[39]–58

CHAPTERIV
1837–1843

Sir Culling Eardley and tent preaching—Case ofconscience—Public questions—Missionarytours—Newstead Abbey—Byron and Scott—Royalvisit to Edinburgh—Up the Rhine—The Rev. W.Walford—Bagster, the publisher—Radicals a century,ago—John Bergne, of the Foreign Office—Tractariancontroversy, and No. 90

[59]–75

CHAPTER V
1843–1850

Removal to Kensington—Life of Dr.Arnold—Ladies’ schools at Kensington—Kensingtonfriends—Archdeacon Sinclair—British Schools andDuchess of Inverness—British and Foreign Bible Society;London Missionary Society—Young Men’s ChristianAssociation—Evangelical Alliance—SubRosâ—Tractarianism and Dr. Pusey—Politicalexcitement—Visit to Geneva—CæsarMalan—Notting Hill Chapel—Father of Rev. F. D.Maurice—Visit to Newport Pagnell and the haunts of the poetCowper

[76]–100

CHAPTER VI
1850–1854

The papal aggression—Discourses on the Romanistcontroversy—Palace of glass—Evangelical lectures inExeter Hall—Memorial of Dr. Doddridge—Visit toGermany and Switzerland; thence to Milan, Verona, andVenice—Intercourse at Kensington with remarkable people

[101]–119

CHAPTER VII
1854–1862

Visit to Rome: Holy Week, Pio Nono and the feet-washing,Catacombs—Naples—Vesuvius—New chapel atKensington—Commencement of the CongregationalUnion—Algernon Wells—The “Rivulet”controversy—Visit to Berlin, Dresden, Schandau, andPrague—Affecting sudden death at Kensington—Familybereavements—Tour in the Pyrenees—St. Sauveur, theEmperor Napoleon, and Empress Eugenie

[120]–137

CHAPTER VIII
1862–1865

Bicentenary of Bartholomew ejectment—Familybereavements—Commencement of friendship with DeanStanley—His sermon on “The Feast of theDedication”—His sermon when the American Presidentwas present—My Eastern tour: Alexandria, Cairo, the Desert,Approach to the Holy City, Communion in the Episcopal Church, Dr.Rosen, Story about the Sinaitic MS., Hebron, Eshcol,Solomon’s Pools, Monastery of St. Saba, the Dead Sea,Jordan, Across Olivet to Jerusalem, Journey to Bethel and onwardsto Damascus, Reflections crossing the Mediterranean, Rhodes,Storm, Smyrna, Ephesus, Constantinople—Home by the Danube,Germany, and Belgium—Reflections

[138]–161

CHAPTER IX
1865–1872

Church history—Visit to Dr. Hook, Dean ofChichester—Anecdotes of Wilberforce, Bishop ofOxford—The Dean’s life at Leeds—Extracts fromhis letters—Acquaintance with Dr. Swainson—AtCambridge when the announcement of wranglersoccurred—Disraeli’s school-boy days—Socialgatherings to promote union—The Archbishop of Syra atWestminster—Acquaintance with MatthewArnold—Publication of “Ecclesia”—Friendlyintercourse with Bible Revisionists—The Right HonourableCowper Temple’s bill for opening Church pulpits toNonconformists—Extension of Oxford University—Debate inthe House of Lords—Dinners at Mr. George Moore’shouse after the annual Bible meetings in Exeter Hall—Deathof Dean Alford and of Sir Donald Macleod—Party at LambethPalace—Bishop Wilberforce’s extemporarypower—Dr. Guthrie’s social habits—The educationquestion—Athenæum Club—AcademyDinner—“Ecce Homo,” and Lord Shaftesbury

[162]–200

CHAPTER X
1873

Voyage to America for the General Meeting of theEvangelical Alliance—Hospitality of the President, theHonourable Mr. Dodge—Visit to Sunnyside, where WashingtonIrving lived, and to the Mountain House overlooking theHudson—The Niagara Falls—Four days spent on thebanks—Description of scenery—Montreal, Boston,Andover, New Haven, and New Plymouth—NewYork—Proceedings at the Conference—Reception of 600guests by Mr. Dodge—Meetings at Princeton, Philadelphia,and Washington—Note from the poet Longfellow—Letterof Abraham Lincoln to Mr. Gurney

[201]–229

CHAPTER XI
1874–1875

Death of Dr. Binney—His opinion respecting theexclusion of liturgical worship—Unveiling of Bunyan’sstatue at Bedford—Unveiling of Baxter’s statue atKidderminster—Anecdote of Fletcher’s preaching atMadeley—Meeting at Kensington on my retirement—Dr.Stanley’s speech—Kensington friendships—Resultsof visits to the poor—Methods of preaching

[230]–250

CHAPTERXII
1875–1879

Luther celebrations—Death of Lady AugustaStanley—Her “At Homes”—Anecdotes ofLamartine, Guizot, and Lord Russell—Touchingwords—Funeral in Westminster Abbey—The threebenedictions—The Dean’s account of the Royal Marriageat St. Petersburg—Breakfast at Lambeth with ArchbishopTait, and conversation relative to a conference betweenConformists and Nonconformists: The plan, The meeting, Subjectdiscussed—Character of the Primate—Visit of the Queento Mrs. Bagster, who was nearly 100 years old—Mypilgrimages to Ban de la Roche and Broad Oak—Days at theDeanery with Dr. Stanley—My lectures atEdinburgh—Scottish society—Singular discovery of lostMSS.—Conference at Basle—Addresses of President M. D.Sarasin—Death of Mrs. Stoughton

[251]–284

CHAPTER XIII
1879–1883

Conversation with a distinguished nobleman upon ideas ofreligion amongst the upper classes—Days at Spezzia, Pisa,and Florence—Introduction to Cardinal Howard, who sent aninvitation to visit him—Conversation with a friend ofhis—The Cardinal’s reception verycordial—Offers of a special introduction to the VaticanLibrary authorities—Successful day inconsequence—Protestant brethren in Rome—Christianantiquities—Dr. Somerville’s mission—Drive toSubiaco—Home through Venice—Revisit to Italy in1881—Special work in library at Florence amongst memorialsof Savonarola—Death of Dr. Stanley—Character andhabits—Cromwell’s skull—Tour inGermany—Sir William McArthur’s mayoralty—Deathof Archbishop Tait—Excursion to the Grande Chartreuse

[285]–313

CHAPTERXIV
1883–1885

Journey to Spain in preparation of book on SpanishReformers: Through France to Figueras, Barcelona, Tarragona,Poblet, Valencia, Cordova, Granada, Seville, Madrid, Escorial,Toledo, Valladolid, Burgos

[314]–337

CHAPTER XV
1885

Third and last visit to Rome—Changes in the city andits surroundings—Where did Paul live during hiscaptivity?—Evangelical Alliance meetings at Edinburgh andGlasgow—Death of Lord Chichester—Mr. Cheetham,M.P.—Visits to Dr. Magee, Bishop of Peterborough—LordEbury and Moor Park—Friends in Norfolk—Increase ofRoman Catholics in Kensington—Chapel openings atHastings—Autumnal meeting in 1886 atNorwich—Bishop’s palace

[338]–360

CHAPTER XVI

I. Church of England—II. Presbyterians—III. Baptists—IV. TheFriends—V. Methodists—VI. Congregationalists

[361]–391

CHAPTER I
1807–1828

I was born in the parish of St. Michaels-at-Plea, Norwich, November 18th, 1807. My father was in some respects a remarkable man. For his great integrity, he won the name of “the honest lawyer”; he would undertake no cause, if unconvinced of its justice, and declined the office of coroner because its duties would have shocked his feelings. Of strong understanding, and fond of reading, after living a thoughtless life, he became an earnest Christian, and worshipped with Methodists, chiefly from circumstances—still regarding himself as a member of the Established Church. Two elder sisters and an elder brother of mine were baptised by the parish clergyman; so was I, the Archdeacon of London being my godfather. I have been told that I “was intended for the Church,” and some Episcopalian friends have amused themselves with speculations as to what might have been the result.

My mother before she married was a Quakeress, and used to tell of eminent “Friends” she knew in her girlhood, especially Edmund Gurney, who preached “with great power” in the Gildencroft Meeting House. She was brought up a Quakeress by her mother, but her father was, at least in later life, a staunch Methodist. She remembered John Wesley, and used to tell how he took her up as a child and kissed her.

My father died in my fifth year. Of him I have but a faint recollection. My grandfather, at a distance now of seventy-five years, visibly stands before me—a tall old gentleman with flaxen wig, large spectacles, a long, blue, bright-buttoned coat, and big buckled shoes. He was Master of Bethel Hospital, an institution for the insane, in my native city; and, as I spent much time with him for a year before his death, I saw and heard a good deal of the patients under his care. “Master,” said one of them, “I want to propose a toast—may the devil never go abroad or receive visitors at home.” “What brought you here?” somebody asked an inmate. “The loss of what you never had, or you would not ask such a question,” was the prompt reply. A man who fancied himself King of England drew on his cell wall pictures of ships which he called his fleet, and would never speak unless he was addressed as “Your Majesty.” I once narrowly escaped severe injury from a woman, who seized me as her child and squeezed me so hard, that no violence could induce her to relax her grasp; but gentle words, and a promise that I should be taken care of, secured my release. Alternate severity and indulgence, at that time, in the treatment of patients led to a sad tragedy in the case of my grandfather, who was killed by a man employed as gardener. He was thought to be harmless, and used to mow the lawn. One morning he drew the scythe across his master’s body and nearly cut him in two.

My mother had a dream the night before, and saw in it her father lying on a bed, pale as ashes, which she interpreted as meaning something terrible would happen to him. When, at breakfast time, she was told by a gentleman of what had occurred, she coupled it with what she had seen in her sleep.

We were living at the time in a very old house with diamond-paned windows, a brick-paved entrance hall, and some rambling passages. I well remember the little bedroom in which I slept. There resided with us an old lady, widow of a Norwich gentleman, who had been a friend of the famous George Whitefield. She used to tell anecdotes of the popular preacher—how he called himself Dr. Squintum, and, when supping off cowheel, a dish he liked, would say, he wondered what people would think of his being so employed.

My mother had a strong verbal memory which her son has not inherited; and it enabled her to instruct and entertain me by reciting long extracts in prose and poetry. She was a great reader and did much to instruct and cultivate my mind by her frequent recitations. My education owes more to this, and other circumstances, than to schoolmasters under whom I was placed. However, of course, rudiments of knowledge fell to my lot in the usual way; but my culture in chief resulted from devouring books, from instructive conversation, and from the delight I felt in observing nature, and looking on what was ancient. When other boys were at play, I liked to get by myself and read; biography and history having for me pre-eminent charms. Lord Nelson had been dead only a few years at the time I speak of, and what I learnt about him as a Norfolk man immensely gratified my curiosity. His aunt was a friend of my grandmother, and great was my delight to see and hear such a distinguished lady; the gratification being enhanced by a bright shilling she slipped into my hand. The river Wensum, old trees by the water-side, the picturesque village of Thorpe, Whitlingham White House and woods, the uplands of Mousehold, walled-in gardens all over the city, wild hedgerows, sheltered nooks and corners under weeping willows, cattle feeding in green meadows, and swans swimming on the river—these objects afforded me an æsthetic education.

From a child I took an interest in historical tales, and felt delight in listening to my mother’s memories of early days. She recollected the American war, and spoke of a family dispute amongst her elders, which lasted just as long—ten years. Excitement in William Pitt’s day she brought vividly before me; and she told how Thelwall, the orator, delivered revolutionary harangues, and being attacked by a mob, he was glad to escape by clambering over the roofs of houses. The trials of Horne Tooke, Hardy, and others, and Erskine’s famous speeches in their defence, were in my boyhood modern incidents. Objects in the city excited archæological tastes. The Norman keep, Herbert de Lozinga’s Cathedral, Erpingham Gate, the Grammar School, the Bishop’s palace, with ruins in the garden, dilapidated towers on the edge of the river, Guild Hall, St. Andrew’s Hall, and the Old Men’s Hospital—these had for me a mighty charm, creating fancies by day and dreams by night. The East Anglian city had not old houses such as Prout found on the Continent, but it contained picturesque, tumble-down tenements, and other “bits,” sketched in “Highways and Byeways of Old Norwich.” The sight of these created a habit of looking after ancient quaint remains, which has never forsaken me.

Guild day, with its triumphal arches, carpets and flags hung out of windows, Darby and Joan sitting in a green arbour, the Mayor’s coach attended by “Snap,” and the “whifflers”; the rush-strewn cathedral pavement, as the Corporation marched up the nave—all this gave birth to boyish enthusiasm for the picturesque. Every Guild day, on a green baize platform near the west door of the cathedral, the head boy of the Grammar School delivered a Latin oration before his Worship. What envy that boy aroused in my bosom! Elections, too, were objects of intense interest to me as a childish politician, when Whig candidates were carried in blue-and-white satin chairs, on the shoulders of men who tossed them up, as the Goths did their heroes upon battle shields.