Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

The cause of this difference in the shed when beating up in the two kinds of looms will be understood by following the relative positions of the griffes and the loom crank throughout its revolution.

In a single lift the time allowed for opening and closing the shed must be used to the best advantage; that is, as much time as possible must be given for this purpose. On this account it is necessary to pick the moment the slay is sufficiently far back to allow the shuttle to enter the shed—that is, when the slay is half-way back, or the crank at the bottom centre. The griffe is worked by a crank on the top shaft of the loom, and there is no actual dwell of the griffe or of the ends when the shed is open; therefore the shed must be opened a little wider than would otherwise be necessary for allowing the shuttle to pass through.

The shed must be sufficiently open to allow the shuttle to enter when the loom crank is at the bottom centre. This regulates the timing of the other parts. [Fig. 114] will make this quite plain. The shed must be nearly fully open when the crank is at the bottom centre to allow the shuttle to enter; and when the loom crank is at A the griffe must be nearly at the top. When the crank is at B the griffe will be at the extreme top, and when the crank is at the top centre, or C, the griffe will be as near the bottom as it was to the top when the loom crank was at A. As was previously pointed out, the griffe must go further down than the hooks to allow another card to operate the needles, and therefore it is when the loom crank has arrived at C that the knife is leaving the hooks resting on the grate, or bottom board. The griffe will be at the extreme bottom when the loom crank is at D, and when the griffe is up at the hooks again the crank is at the front centre, or E. Thus the shed has the fraction of a revolution between B and C to close in, and between E and B for opening. The shed remains closed for the quarter of a revolution, C to E.

FIG. 114.

FIG. 115.

In a double-lift the warp is much more leniently dealt with. As we have said, the shed must be open for the shuttle to enter when the loom crank is at the bottom centre. Therefore the griffes should be in their extreme position—one up and one down—when the crank is at the bottom centre.

The timing of the parts in a double-lift will be seen at [Fig. 115]. The cranks that work the griffes are on the bottom shaft, which of course makes a revolution every two picks. These cranks will be perpendicular when the shed is fully open; therefore when the loom cranks are at the bottom centre the cranks which drive the griffes must be in the position AB. If they are so set they will be in the position CD when the loom crank reaches the back centre, and in the position EF, or horizontal, when the loom crank arrives at the top centre, when the shed will be closed. We have thus a closed shed when the crank is at the top centre, as in a single-lift; but in this case when the shed is closed the griffes are moving quickly, whereas we have a quarter of a revolution dwell after the loom crank reaches the top centre in a single-lift. This causes, as we shall see, a difference in the shed when the slay beats-up, or is at the front centre. When the griffe cranks are in the position GH, the loom crank will be at the front centre, and thus the shed will be partly opened for the next pick when the reed comes in contact with the cloth.

Jacquards are made in various sizes. 100s, 200s, 300s, 400s, and 600s, are the most common. 100s are arranged in rows of four; 200s and 400s are in rows of eight; 300s and 600s in rows of twelve.