FIG. 129.
Suppose the griffe A to be lifted for the first pick, it will lift the first and ninth ends. The second card has holes opposite the second and sixth needles, and when the griffe B is lifted for the second pick, it will lift the fourth and twelfth ends in the warp or lingoes in the comber-board. The third card has holes opposite the fourth and eighth needles, and as on the odd picks the griffe A lifts, it will lift the seventh and fifteenth ends in the warp. If this is followed out it will be found that the ends are lifted in the order 1 4, 7 2, 5 8, 3 6, or eight end satin is woven. [Fig. 131] shows the method of putting the dots on point paper for four end twill (one and three). The principle is the same as in the preceding case, and is very simple when understood. A hole opposite the first needle on the first pick causes the first end to be lifted, and a hole opposite the same needle for the second pick causes the second end to be lifted. Any figure can be put upon the cloth, with the following limits as regards the bindings: firstly, an end cannot be lifted for two successive picks; secondly, every end must be left down an odd number of picks.
FIG. 130.
FIG. 131.
From this it will be seen that a five end satin cannot be woven, nor can a weft figure be put on a warp ground. Plain grounds can be woven, and cord grounds of various kinds are also suitable for the harness.
DAMASK OR TWILLING JACQUARDS.
These Jacquards are now extensively used for weaving linen, damasks, and similar fabrics, and are used where pressure harnesses were formerly used. The pressure harness puts a great strain on the warp, and requires a longer distance between the cloth and the warp beam than is usually allowed for in power looms; therefore much ingenuity has been expended on these Jacquards with the view of obtaining a large design without using several ordinary Jacquards above each loom, with the accompanying great expense in cards and other attachments.
The principle of damask attachments and twilling Jacquards is entirely different to the principle of the pressure harness, and for fine silk fabrics which require a very large extent of pattern and woven on the hand loom, the pressure harness on the principle shown at [Fig. 126] is not likely to be replaced.