FIG. 134.
The foregoing are the chief kinds of Jacquards and harnesses (except lenos) attached thereto, but there are many combinations of shaft and Jacquard or mail harness which need not be mentioned in a book of this size. We may mention a system, sometimes called half harness, in which only half the ends are drawn through the Jacquard harness, and the other half through shafts in front or behind. A double-sized figure may thus be formed.
CHAPTER VII
LENO WEAVING
FIG. 135.
THE word “leno” has latterly become a general term given to all classes of cross weaving. Originally it had a different meaning to gauze, but the word is now often applied to gauze as well as other fabrics woven with doups. A pure gauze fabric is one in which the crossing thread is brought up on one side of a standard end, and up the other side of the standard end on the next pick. [Fig. 135] shows how the threads are interlaced in gauze weaving. It will be seen that the weave repeats every two picks. The crossing end, and the end round which it crosses, must be placed in one dent, and if an end is made to cross round a number of ends they must all be in the same dent or split in the reed, as it is very obvious that an end cannot be made to cross into another dent with the ordinary doup heald.
FIG. 136.
