Only small solid spot figures can be woven, as the figuring thread cannot be bound between the extreme edges of the figure. This is the chief disadvantage of the principle, and it is not to be compared with swivels for the purpose of producing intricate designs. In swivel weaving each figuring thread is placed in a small shuttle, which receives a horizontal motion by means of a rack. The small shuttles can be lifted out of, and dropped into, the warp, so as to allow the figuring thread to be passed through the shed where the spot is formed, and therefore twill or satin, and shaded effects, can be formed in the spot. In lappet weaving the floats cannot be bound in the middle.
The chief advantage of lappet weaving is that it can easily and satisfactorily be applied to a power-loom. Swivels have been applied to power-looms, but not yet with entirely satisfactory results, taking into consideration the question of cost.
The principle of the lappet power-loom will be understood from [Fig. 161]. In front of the slay cap the needle rack A is placed, the ends resting in the slots BB, and this is moved downwards by the hook C being lifted by the treadle F at the side of the loom. The figuring threads are taken from a separate beam through the needles in the rack, and it will thus be seen that when the rack is pulled down the figuring threads will be at the bottom of the shed. When the treadle F is forced down, the springs PP pull the rack back to its topmost position, and when in this position the rack is pulled to the left by pressing down the treadle D, the distance which the rack can be moved being regulated by the size of the groove in the lappet wheel at that point.
FIG. 161.
The lappet wheel G is a wheel with ratchet teeth, and is turned one tooth at a time. The groove in the wheel is so shaped that the rack can be pulled sideways a greater or a less distance as desired, to form a spot or figure. The pin N fits in the groove, and when the treadle D is pressed down the rack is pulled to the left as far as the groove will allow, when the spring S gives way until the treadle reaches the bottom of its stroke. When the treadle is released the spring K pulls back the rack and treadle as far as the groove in the wheel will allow it. The spring K is much weaker than S, so that when the treadle D is pressed down the spring K gives way the first.
The needle rack being in front of the ordinary reed, a “false” reed is required to guide the shuttle across the shed. This false reed M is placed immediately behind the shuttle race, and it is lifted every pick when the shuttle is going across, and dropped to make room for the proper reed to beat up. The treadle E is used for operating the false reed; the connection is shown in the diagram, and when the treadle is pressed down the reed is lifted.
At [Fig. 162] a section is given showing how the needle rack receives a lateral as well as a perpendicular motion. The slay-cap is cut square, and the cover C works loosely upon it. The needle rack A is pulled down against the spring S, and the cover is pulled sideways by the bar attached to the cover at O, carrying the needle rack along with it.
