FIG. 277.
An immense variety of useful weaves may be obtained on this system of combination, the effects being perhaps more useful than when the patterns occupy twice as many picks as ends.
Unequal Twills combined.—Some useful fancy effects are obtained by combining two unequal twills “end and end,” or “pick and pick.” [Fig. 278] shows the effect produced by combining “end and end,” a “three and two” twill, and “two and two” twill. As one twill repeats on five picks and the other on four, the combined pattern will occupy twenty picks—twenty being the L.C.M. of five and four. There will require to be twenty ends of each twill used to make up a complete pattern, therefore the combined design will repeat on forty ends and twenty picks. If a four-end twill is combined with a three-end twill in this manner, the complete pattern would occupy twenty-four ends and twelve picks, as twelve is the least number of picks on which both the four-end and three-end twills repeat.
FIG. 278.
Check Patterns produced by Re-arrangement of Twills.—If an eight-end twill “three and five plain” is re-arranged in the order 1 4, 7 2, 5 8, 3 6, the effect shown in the square A ([Fig. 279]), and if this be again re-arranged in the same order, the original twill results. It follows, therefore, that by placing the pattern A above the twill and drawing the ends through eight staves as indicated in the draft ([Fig. 280]), a check pattern will be formed. The draft which produces the crape from the twill also produces the twill from the crape. The first eight ends and sixteen picks of the design is the pegging plan. By the addition of two extra staves the floats may be prevented from passing from one square to another. To produce the check effect properly, the satin draft must be such a one that if the fourth end is drawn on the second stave, the second end must be drawn on the fourth stave. If a sixteen-end satin draft is used for making a check pattern on this principle from a sixteen-end twill, the satin draft must be selected from those which can be made on sixteen shafts, and must be such a one that exactly the same pattern will be produced in the opposite squares of the check. The sixteen-end satin which gives this effect is the one made by skipping eight ends between each lift.
FIG. 279.
FIG. 280.