Fancy Effects.—Some novel effects can be produced on the principle of [Fig. 306]. Two picks are floated on the top of a plain cloth every ten picks, and these loose picks are bound only by two ends out of every twelve. The loose picks are pulled in opposite directions by the loose ends, and the result is that small hexagonal figures are formed after the manner shown at [Fig. 307]. By using coloured ends and picks for the loose ones a still better effect is obtained.
FIG. 307.
FIG. 308.
Crimp Stripes.—These are usually produced by having two warps at different tensions. The warp to weave the crimp is lightly weighted as compared with the warp of the other stripe, which may be plain or satin as desired, and is let off intermittently. If the crimp warp is very hard twisted the effect is increased. [Fig. 308] is the design of a crimp stripe of rather a novel character. The ends woven entirely plain are on a beam lightly weighted, whilst the other ends are heavily weighted. The first two picks are of ordinarily twisted weft, and the third and fourth picks are very hard twisted. These picks are thrown to the back, and take no part in forming the cloth in one portion of it. The consequence is that these picks, loose at the back of the cloth, and being very hard twisted, pull the two edges of the stripe closer together, and thus form a crimp or “tuck” the length of the piece. The plain ends form a crimp in the ordinary manner, owing to being lightly weighted.
Huck Patterns.—This is the name given to a class of patterns used for towellings. The object is to get a firm cloth with a rough surface. [Fig. 309] is a weave of this description, but there are many others in use. The pattern repeats on ten ends and eight picks, and can be drafted down to be woven on five shafts.
FIG. 309.
Extra Warp.—When some warp ends are used for figuring without taking any part in forming the ground or body of the fabric, they are termed “extra warp” threads. The principle is much used for putting coloured spots or figures on grounds of a different colour or material. In [Fig. 310] the ends on which the black squares occur are “extra ends,” as they take no part in forming the ground of the fabric. In this figure the black squares represent the warp lifted. Where the extra warp is not forming the figure it is thrown to the back of the cloth, where it hangs loosely unless it can be bound into the ground cloth or cut off. Two or three differently coloured spots may be formed one above the other. [Fig. 311] will show the principle of this. The ground of the cloth is plain, and these ends are distinguished by the small dots in the design. The first and second ends in the design are supposed to be of different colours. This design will repeat on forty picks, and any desired number of ends may be used between each stripe for the ground. The extra warp must be put “extra” in the reed, so that, supposing there are two ends in a dent in the ground, there would be six in a dent where the two extra warps occur. The principle is useful for obtaining a large width of pattern.