FIG. 324.
FIG. 325.
Corkscrew twills are those which have a warp face on both sides of the cloth. The weave is chiefly used in the manufacture of worsted coatings, and similar goods, but is often employed in cotton designs. An eleven-thread corkscrew is given at [Fig. 324], and a fifteen-thread pattern is given at [Fig. 325]. The weave requires a large number of warp threads per inch to give a good effect.
Padded Cloths.—To obtain a raised effect on cords or figures, thick weft may be inserted between the face and back cloth, or between the face cloth and backing ends when there is no backing weft used. This thick weft takes no part in forming either the face or back cloth, and is simply held in position by the binding of the backing material to the face cloth.
FIG. 326.
A simple example of this principle of weaving is given at [Fig. 326]. This pattern may be woven with one shuttle, and a fine raised cord across the piece is formed. The backing warp threads, on which the solid squares are placed, should be on a separate beam, and should be heavily weighted as compared with the other ends. All the marks in the design represent the warp lifted, so that the empty squares represent warp left down. It will be noticed that the heavily-weighted ends are only lifted for two picks in every ten, and this forms a cord effect. There are three picks in each cord which do not interweave with either the face or backing ends, but they serve to increase the boldness of the cord by giving it a raised appearance. The three picks which form the padding are the second, fourth, and sixth in the design.
The section at [Fig. 327] will better explain the principle of the pattern. There are five plain picks in the cord, two plain picks between the cords, and three padding picks, making altogether ten to the round. These cloths are known as Piqués.