Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

FIG. 340.

The question as to which is the better system of binding depends upon the character of the two cloths. If the face weft covers better than the warp, it is the better way to bind by passing the back pick over a face end, whereas if the face warp covers better than the weft, a back end lifted over a face pick is preferable.

Three-, and more ply Cloths.—Any number of cloths may be woven separately, one above the other, or several may be bound together to form a very thick fabric. [Fig. 341] is a design for weaving four plain cloths, one above the other, and if the picks are woven in the order given in the design it will weave a cloth four times the width of the loom when opened out. The passage of the weft from one cloth to the other is shown at [Fig. 342].

FIG. 341.

FIG. 342.

Figured Double Plain Cloths.—If the warp be taken with alternate ends of two colours and picked in the same manner, figures, checks, or stripes can be formed by weaving two separate cloths of the different coloured yarns, making both cloths solid colour, and making them change places so as to form the desired figure. [Fig. 343] is a design for a small check pattern on this principle. The odd ends and picks are, we will suppose, black; and the even numbered ends and picks white. It will be seen that in the bottom left-hand square of eight ends and picks, the lifting marks for lifting the face cloth out of the way when weaving in the back cloth are put on the black ends and white picks, and therefore the black cloth is lifted to the face in this square. On the opposite square of eight ends and picks, the lifting marks for separating the two cloths are put upon the white ends and black picks, and therefore the white cloth is here made the face cloth. By bringing either the black or white cloth to the face, any figure may be formed, and the surface of the fabric is quite plain, which for some purposes is much preferable to floated figures. The weave used may be a twill or satin instead of plain, if desired, or the two cloths may be of different weaves, and one brought through the other to form a figure. [Fig. 344] is a design for a small spot pattern on the double plain principle. The threads should be “end and end” and “pick and pick” of different colours, the first end and first pick being, we will suppose, black, and the threads for the second cloth being white. The lifting marks for bringing the back cloth to the face are the solid squares, whilst the white cloth is brought to the top by the circles.

FIG. 343.