Double plain cloths may be bound together by using sufficient material to cover well, but the binding is difficult to make without being visible. This principle of binding is shown at Figs. [398] and [399].
Leno Fabrics.—In a previous chapter the method of interlacing the threads in simple gauze has been shown. With the two staves and one doup required to weave gauze a considerable variety of patterns can be woven. A “five and one cross-over” has already been given, but it will be obvious that the number of plain picks in each bar of the cross-over may be any odd number. A “seven and one,” “eleven and one,” and so on, are regular weaves.
Where the crossing thread weaves plain first at one side and then the other of the standard end, a simple crack is made in the cloth between the bars of plain, and there is no single pick in the middle of the crack. The most common pattern of this description is a “five and five cross-over;” a plan, draft, and pegging-plan of this pattern is shown at [Fig. 348].
FIG. 348.
In all these fabrics the effect is decidedly of an open or transparent nature.
In some leno fabrics the object is not to get an open effect but to get zigzag effects by crossing a thick end over a few plain ends. A simple pattern of this kind was given at [Fig. 139] in dealing with leno weaving, but the effect may be varied by making the crossings at irregular intervals.
FIG. 349.
[Fig. 349] is a fancy crossing in which the thick doup end is crossing over three double plain ends.