Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

FIG. 353.

FIG. 354.

FIG. 355.

For dobby weaving, the leno principle is chiefly used in the production of striped fabrics. One of the most popular classes of fabrics is a combination of the thick zigzag effect with an open leno effect of any kind. [Fig. 354] is an example of this combined style, the stripe can either be woven with a satin or plain ground fabric.

With three doups some very elaborate effects can be obtained, but the increased cost is rather prohibitive.

A thick end can be crossed round a pair of ends weaving leno, as in [Fig. 355]. It is necessary to bring the end from the back stave round the doup B before crossing under the pair of leno ends, as this would make the crossing easier.

Weft Pile Fabrics, Velvets, and Corduroys.—Practically all cotton velvets are woven on the weft pile principle. The intricate nature of the loom required for weaving warp cut-pile prevents its adoption for cotton pile fabrics. There is no doubt that a warp pile woven over wires is superior to any weft pile fabric, all the pile being perfectly even. The principle upon which weft pile is formed is illustrated at Figs. [356] and [357], the former showing the pile uncut, and the latter cut.