Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

CHAPTER XI
FIGURED DESIGN

IN figured fabrics it is most important that the distribution of the parts of the figure should be such that the eye is not attracted by lines formed by the unequal distribution of the figure. The objectionable feature is most likely to occur in designs of an all-over character, as it is almost impossible to tell if the distribution is perfect without extending the design to cover a considerable space.

FIG. 375.

In designs which consist of set or detached figures, it is a comparatively easy matter to cover the surface of the fabric equally by distributing the figures in some pre-arranged order. The simplest method of arranging detached figures is to arrange them “one and one,” as in [Fig. 375]. This is a small spot arranged from two points on twelve ends and twelve picks, and the same principle will apply whatever the size of the figure. The space to be covered, twelve ends and twelve picks, is divided into two, both in warp and weft, and it will be noticed that the central dot in each spot is in the same position in each square of 6 × 6.

In designs of a floral character the two figures are generally turned in different directions, and if the centres of the figures be properly placed they may be turned in any direction, and still preserve the equal distribution. Detached figures may be arranged in the order of any satin, but the regular satins show the figures too much in lines, and the system is not much practised on that account. Irregular satins give much better effects. [Fig. 376] is a design consisting of six spots arranged in six-end satin order, on thirty ends and thirty picks; the ground being five-end satin. In making the design the space to be covered is divided into six parts, both in warp and weft, by the crosses at the corners of the squares.

FIG. 376.

The squares are numbered at the side in the order of the satin, viz. 1, 3, 5, 2, 6, 4, and the first spot is placed in the left-hand bottom corner, the central dot of the spot being placed in the centre of its square. The next figure is placed in the third square, on the second five picks, the central dot again being placed in the middle of the square. The third spot is placed in the fifth square, on the third division of the picks; and so on, until the six figures have been placed on the thirty ends and picks.