Two plain cloths are woven, one being white and the other brown, and these are made to change places so as to form the desired figure in the manner shown in [Fig. 398].
The two cloths are bound together in both the figure and the ground. When the white cloth is at the top, as in the first part of [Fig. 398], a ground pick is passed over a white face end under the float which follows, and the binding is perfectly hidden. When the brown cloth is at the top a white end is lifted, and as this is of a fine count and the brown warp threads are rather closely set to the reed, the binding is obscured.
A portion of a design of this weave is given at [Fig. 399], the structure of which will repay careful study along with the section at [Fig. 398].
Twilled cloths are sometimes used for figuring on this double cloth principle, and the binding can be much more easily effected, although the weave is more expensive than double plain, if the same firmness is desired. [Fig. 400] is a section showing how the figure can be formed from two twill cloths, and how the binding can be best effected. The cloths in this example are of equal fineness.
REFERENCE.
= White face warp-ends raised above coarse white figuring picks.
