FIG. 407.
It often occurs that for printing and dyeing purposes the weft is preferred spun “twist way,” and as the weft greatly predominates over the warp, the direction of the twill should be contrary to the lines of the weft. Not much difference is noticeable in the better makes of cloth, but when there are few picks, a frayed appearance is often produced if the direction of the twill is not reversed.
To keep the twill in a given direction, the twist may be spun “weft way” to give the desired effect.
In very small twills, such as Jeannettes, a more decided twill is obtained by using weft spun in the same way as the twist or warp yarns, but in larger twills the best effect is obtained in the opposite manner.
CHAPTER XII
TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
THE numbers of cotton yarns are based upon the hank of 840 yards, the number of hanks in 1 lb. being the “counts.”
It follows that if 840—the yards in one hank—be multiplied by the counts, the result will be the yards in 1 lb. of that count.
Thus in 1 lb. of 30’s yarn there will be 840 × 30 = 25,200 yards, and the yards in a pound of any count may be found in the same manner.
The counts of worsted yarns are based upon a hank of 560 yards, and the number of hanks in 1 lb. Avoirdupois is the count of the yarn.