Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

A lighter cloth may be made, and the same firmness kept. The formula is the same in both cases. If a cloth is made lighter it must be done by using finer counts and more threads. It cannot be done by using fewer threads, as the firmness could not be kept and the required weight obtained.

In altering the weights of cloths some allowance would have to be made for the difference in milling-up with different counts of yarns and numbers of threads. If a cloth is made heavier, thicker yarns would be used, and the warp length to give a certain length of piece would be different in the sample to the altered cloth. But this is a comparatively small matter, which can be adjusted with a slight alteration in the basis of the structure.

INDEX

• ANTISEPTICS, [32]
• Automatic looms, [198]
• BACKED cloths, with weft, [255];
• with warp, [257]
• Barley-corn patterns, [235]
• Beaming, press, [47]
• —— tension, [47]
• Beating up the weft, [72], [85]
• ——, character of motion in, [72], [73]
• ——, distance moved by slay whilst the crank moves through given
• angle in, [74]
• ——, eccentricity of slay’s movement in, [72];
• cause of, [74]
• ——, effect of altering position of crank-shaft in, [83];
• of reversing direction of crank in, [84]
• ——, force of slay in, [78], [82]
• ——, position of crank in, [72]
• Becks, size mixing, [30]
• Brake, [95]
• CALCULATION for two or more fold yarns, [308]
• —— of contraction for different weaves and counts, [326]
• —— of cost of a piece, [325]
• —— of counts of yarn from weighing given length, [329]
• Calculation of diameter of yarn, [336]
• Calculation of number of threads of given counts required to make a
• firm cloth in any weave, [341]
• —— of quantity of warp and weft in a piece, [311–313]
• —— of reeds and setts, [310]
• —— of weaving wage, [324]
• —— of weight of a given length of any counts, [330]
• —— to make a cloth of equal firmness to given cloth when changing
• weave, [338]
• —— to preserve firmness and alter weight, [343]
• —— to preserve firmness when changing threads per inch, [341]
• —— to preserve same firmness when changing counts, [341]
• Card-cutting machine, [190]
• —— repeater, [191]
• Casting out, [285]
• Checks produced by re-arranging twills, [241]
• Circular-box motion, [115]
• Clearer guide, [8]
• Clipped or sheared cloths, [254]
• Coiling motions. _See_ Taking-up
• Combined twills, [226]
• Cop winding machine, [6]
• Cording plan for hand loom, [50]
• Cords, [245]
• Corkscrew twills, [257]
• Counts of cotton yarns, [307]
• Counts of two or more unequal threads twisted together, [308];
• and weight of each required in given weight of resulting
• thread, [309]
• Cover on cloth, [86], [87]
• Crapes, [248]
• Crimp cloth, [249]
• DAMASK or twilling Jacquards, [168–172]
• Design, transferring from sketch to point paper, [281]
• Detached figures, spots, arrangement of, [278–281]
• Development of pattern, [282–285]
• Diagonals, fancy, produced by combining unequal twills, [240]
• —— figured, [289]
• Diameters of cotton yarns, [335]
• Diapers, [233]
• Dice checks, [234]
• Direction of twist in yarns, effect of, [304]
• Dobbies, timing of movements in, [129]
• —— undermotions for, [130], [131]
• Dobby, the Blackburn, [127];
• knife motion for, [127];
• character of shed in, [129]
• ——, the Keighley double-lift, [123];
• method of pegging for, [126];
• double jacks in, [126];
• character of shed in, [125];
• made positive, [129]
• Double cloths, [259]
• —— bound by passing back pick over face end, [261]
• —— bound by passing back end over face pick, [262]
• —— plain clothes, figuring, [263];
• bound together, [266]
• —— shed Jacquard, [157]
• —— twill cloth figuring, [300]
• —— warp face, [257]
• Double weft face, [255]
• Double-beat slay, [135]
• Doup heald, [173]
• Draft, arranging on point paper, [227]
• —— the V, [230]; patterns produced by, [230–233]
• Drawing-in, [3]
• Drills, [224]
• Drop-box motion, Diggle’s, [107]
• —— in pick-and-pick loom, [116];
• connected to Jacquard, [120]
• —— Whitesmith’s, [112]
• —— Wright Shaw’s, [109]
• Drum winding machine, [13], [14]
• EDLESTON harness, [166]
• —— —— designing for, [294]
• Extra warp, figuring with, [250];
• reeding of, [252]
• —— —— and extra weft combined, [255]
• —— weft, figuring with, [252]
• —— figure on mock leno ground, [254]
• FANCY effects produced by warp and weft pulling each other out of
• straight line, [249]
• Fast reeds, [91]
• Figured design, [278]
• —— leno designing, [295]
• Firmness of cloth, [333]
• GAUZE, plan of, [173]
• “Gloy,” [33]
• Grey warps, preparation of, [2]
• HAND-LOOM, [48]
• Hattersley weft-replenishing device, [214]
• Heck of warping mill, [22]
• Honeycomb designs, [242]
• Huck patterns, [250]
• JACQUARD card cutting, [142], [190]
• —— damask or twilling, [168–172]
• —— damask, Tschorner and Wein, [172]
• —— double-shed, [157]
• —— for cross-border, [155]
• —— for leno weaving, [181]
• —— harness, bordered pattern, Norwich tie, [151];
• London tie, [153]
• —— centre pattern or point tie, [154]
• —— Edleston’s, [166];
• designing for,[167], [294]
• —— for all-over pattern, [139]
• —— London tie, [150]
• —— Norwich tie, [144], [150]
• —— machine, origin of, [137]
• —— sizes of, [150]
• —— difference in character of shed between single and
• double-lift, [137], [144–148]
• —— double-lift, single-cylinder, [144];
• principle of, [145]
• —— double-lift, double-cylinder, [146];
• advantages of, [144]
• —— single-lift, [138]
• —— open-shed, [158]
• —— pressure harness, [161–166]
• —— split harness, [160]
• Jeans, jeanettes, [220]
• KEIGHLEY dobby, [123]
• Kenyon’s undermotion for dobbies, [131]
• LACE and leno stripes, [269]
• Lags, pegging of, [126]
• Lappet loom, [193]
• —— wheel, construction of, [195]
• Lappets, [192]
• Leno checks, [268]
• —— crossovers, [175]
• Leno effects, [266]
• —— full cross, [181]
• —— Jacquards, designing for, [185]
• —— double-lift, [186]
• ——, imitation of, [186]
• —— net or lace, [176]
• —— selvedge, [132]
• —— weaving in dobbies, [174–180];
• use of slackener in, [174];
• arrangement of staves and pegging plan, [175–178];
• shaking motion for double-lift dobbies, [178];
• arrangement of slackeners for two doups, [180]
• Letting-off, [106]
• Linen yarns, counts of, [307]
• List of prices for weaving, New Uniform, [314–322];
• Chorley, [322]
• Loose reeds, [92]
• MARKING mechanism in slashing frame, [35]
• Marseilles quilts, [298]
• Mildew, [32]
• Mitcheline, [299]
• Mock lenos, [243]
• Mono-coloured warps, preparation of, [3]
• Multi-coloured warps, preparation of, [5]
• NET lenos, [267]
• Northrop weft-replenishing device, [210]
• OSCILLATING tappets, [61]
• PADDED cloths, [258]
• Patterns produced by combining alternate picks of twills, [240]
• —— by combining equal twills, [226];
• unequal twills, [240]
• —— by drafting, [227]
• Patterns by fancy drafts, [238]
• —— by re-arrangement of simple twills, [236];
• and of combined twills, [237]
• Pegging plan making, [228]
• Pick-and-pick loom, [116]
• Pick, force of, [69]
• Picking, over pick, [68], [69]
• —— under pick, [71]
• Pile fabrics, warp, [189]
• —— weft, [270–277]
• Piqués, [258]
• Pirn winding machine, [15]
• —— —— —— disc, [17]
• Plain cloth, [218]
• —— draft for weaving, [219]
• —— number of threads possible in, [218]
• —— ornamentation of, [218]
• Plushes, [189], [275]
• Point draft, [230]
• Point paper, selection of, for different proportions of warp and
• weft, [290]
• —— use of, [219]
• Power-loom, tappet shedding motions in, [51–68]
• Preparatory processes, [1]
• Presser roller, expanding, [27]
• Pressure harness, designing for, [292]
• —— harnesses, [161–166]
• Primary movements in weaving, [48]
• —— timing of, [85–87]
• Protector, loose reed, [91]
• —— stop rod, [92]
• REEDS and setts, [310]
• Ribs and cords, [245]
• Roller top motion for plain cloth, [62];
• 3 staves, [64];
• 4 staves, [64];
• 5 staves, [65];
• 7 staves, [66]
• SACK weaving, [259]
• Satin draft, [229]
• —— weaves, [222]
• Satin, principle of construction of, [224]
• Scotch dressing, [42]
• Section blocks, expanding, [27]
• —— tappets, Woodcroft’s, [59], [60]
• Sectional warping, [23]
• Selvedge motion in sateen loom, [134], [135]
• Set figures, arrangement of, [278–281]
• Shading, [283]
• Shedding motions, power-loom, [51–68]
• Silk yarns, thrown or net, numbering of, [307]
• Sines and cosines, table of, [81]
• Singleton’s stop-motion, [19]
• Size mixing, [28]
• —— —— for light sizing, [30]
• —— —— for fine counts, [31]
• —— —— for medium sizing, [31]
• —— —— for heavy sizing, [32]
• Sizes of patterns woven in Jacquards, [285]
• Sizing, [28]
• —— ball, [43]
• —— materials, [28]
• ——, slashing frame, [33];
• slow motion in, [37]
• —— frame, slasher, marking motion in, [35], [36]
• —— —— frictional winding motion in, [39]
• —— machines, hot air drying in, [38]
• —— ——, automatic supply of size to, [40]
• Slubbings, [8]
• Solid coloured borders in dhooties, [303]
• Split harness, designing for, [292]
• Splits, motion for, [132]
• —— Shorrock and Taylor’s motion for, [133]
• Spreading the warp, [85]
• Spun silk yarns, counts of, [307]
• Stitching-thread used to bind extra warp and extra weft, [252], [253]
• Stocks and bowls, [67]
• Stop motion, weft fork, [93]
• —— ——, in beam-warper, [19]
• —— rod, [92]
• Striped designs, [288];
• calculation of reed for, [288]
• TABBY weave, [218]
• Taking-up motion, negative, [101];
• screw and worm wheel, [103]
• —— positive, [95];
• Pickles’, [99];
• new system, [104]
• Tappets, calculation for lift of, [52]
• ——, construction of, [53]
• ——, effect of treadle-bowl on, [57]
• —— for plain cloth, [50], [51], [53]
• —— for twills, [56], [58]
• —— oscillating, [61]
• —— positive, [59]
• ——, speed of, [87–91]
• —— Woodcroft’s, [59]
• Terry cloth, [187]
• —— loom, [187]
• Testing yarns, [329]
• Three-ply, four-ply cloths, [263]
• Toiletings, [297]
• Traverse motions, heart cam, [9], [10];
• mangle wheel, [11] cloths, [258]
• Trial section, [25]
• Twaddell’s hydrometer, [30]
• Twills, [219]
• —— combined, [226]
• Twisting-in, [3]
• Twofold yarns, cotton, worsted, silk, [308]
• UNDERMOTIONS, [130], [131]
• Undermotion, Kenyon’s, [131]
• V-CREEL, [18], [23]
• V-reed, [24]
• Velvet, common, [270]
• —— cords, [276]
• —— E1, [273]
• —— fast pile, [273]
• ——, figured, [301]
• —— twill back, [274]
• Velvets, velveteens, [270], [277];
• definition of, [272]
• WARP line, [85]
• Warping, beam, [18]
• Warping mill, [21]
• ——, sectional, [23]
• Weaving wage calculations, [324]
• Weft, preparation of, [6]
• ——, wet, [6]
• —— fork, [93]
• —— pile fabrics, [270]
• Weft-replenishing devices, automatic, [198–217]
• —— ——, patents for, [209]
• —— ——, Northrop, [210]
• —— ——, Hattersley, [214]
• Winding coloured yarn, [14]
• —— drum, [14]
• —— from cops to warpers’ bobbins, [6]
• —— from ring spools to warpers’ bobbins, [6]
• —— from throstle to warpers’ bobbins, [6]
• Woodcroft’s section tappets, [59], [60]
• Worsted yarns, [307]
• Wrapping yarn, [330]
• YARN balance, Staub’s, [331]
• —— twist of, [305]
• Yorkshire dressing, [5], [47]

THE END

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