MOULIN OF GRINDELWALD GLACIER.

The first time I had an opportunity of seeing these remarkable glacier-chimneys was in the summer of 1856, upon the lower glacier of Grindelwald. Mr. Huxley was my companion at the time, and on crossing the so-called Eismeer we heard a sound resembling the rumble of distant thunder, which proceeded from a perpendicular shaft formed in the ice, and into which a resounding cataract discharged itself. The tube in fact resembled a vast organ-pipe, whose thunder-notes were awakened by the concussion of the falling water, instead of by the gentle flow of a current of air. Beside the shaft our guide hewed steps, on which we stood in succession, and looked into the tremendous hole. Near the first shaft was a second and smaller one, the significance of which I did not then understand; it was not more than 20 feet deep, but seemed filled with a liquid of exquisite blue, the colour being really due to the magical shimmer from the walls of the moulin, which was quite empty. As far as we could see, the large shaft was vertical, but on dropping a stone into it a shock was soon heard, and after a succession of bumps, which occupied in all seven seconds, we heard the stone no more. The depth of the moulin could not be thus ascertained, but we soon found a second and still larger one which gave us better data. A stone dropped into this descended without interruption for four seconds, when a concussion was heard; and three seconds afterwards the final shock was audible: there was thus but a single interruption in the descent. DEPTH OF THE SHAFT. Supposing all the acquired velocity to have been destroyed by the shock, by adding the space passed over by the stone in four and in three seconds respectively, and making allowance for the time required by the sound to ascend from the bottom, we find the depth of the shaft to be about 345 feet. There is, however, no reason to suppose that this measures the depth of the glacier at the place referred to. These shafts are to be found in almost all great glaciers; they are very numerous in the Unteraar Glacier, numbers of them however being empty. On the Mer de Glace they are always to be found in the region of Trélaporte, one of the shafts there being, par excellence, called the Grand Moulin. Many of them also occur on the Glacier de Léchaud.

As truly observed by M. Agassiz, these moulins occur only at those parts of the glacier which are not much rent by fissures, for only at such portions can the little rills produced by superficial melting collect to form streams of any magnitude. The valley of unbroken ice formed in the Mer de Glace near Trélaporte is peculiarly favourable for the collection of such streams; we see the little rills commencing, and enlarging by the contributions of others, the trunk-rill pouring its contents into a little stream which stretches out a hundred similar arms over the surface of the glacier. Several such streams join, and finally a considerable brook, which receives the superficial drainage of a large area, cuts its way through the ice.

MOULINS EXPLAINED.

But although this portion of the glacier is free from those long-continued and permanent strains which, having once rent the ice, tend subsequently to widen the rent and produce yawning crevasses, it is not free from local strains sufficient to produce cracks which penetrate the glacier to a great depth. Imagine such a crack intersecting such a glacier-rivulet as we have described. The water rushes down it, and soon scoops a funnel large enough to engulf the entire stream. The moulin is thus formed, and, as the ice moves downward, the sides of the crack are squeezed together and regelated, the seam which marks the line of junction being in most cases distinctly visible. But as the motion continues, other portions of the glacier come into the same state of strain as that which produced the first crack; a second one is formed across the stream, the old shaft is forsaken, and a new one is hollowed out, in which for a season the cataract plays the thunderer. I have in some cases counted the forsaken shafts of six old moulins in advance of an active one. Not far from the Grand Moulin of the Mer de Glace in 1857 there was a second empty shaft, which evidently communicated by a subglacial duct with that into which the torrent was precipitated. Out of the old orifice issued a strong cold blast, the air being manifestly impelled through the duct by the falling water of the adjacent moulin.

These shafts are always found in the same locality; the portion of the Mer de Glace to which I have referred is never without them. Some of the guides affirm that they are motionless; and a statement of Prof. Forbes has led to the belief that this was also his opinion.[A] M. Agassiz, however, observed the motion of some of these shafts upon the glacier of the Aar; and when on the spot in 1857, I was anxious to decide the point by accurate measurements with the theodolite.

My friend Mr. Hirst took charge of the instrument, and on the 28th of July I fixed a single stake beside the Grand Moulin, in a straight line between a station at Trélaporte and a well-defined mark on the rock at the opposite side of the valley. On the 31st, the displacement of the stake amounted to 50 inches, and on the 1st of August it had moved 741/2 inches—the moulin, to all appearance, occupying throughout the same position with regard to the stake. To render this certain, moreover we subsequently drove two additional stakes into the ice, thus enclosing the mouth of the shaft in a triangle. On the 8th of August the displacements were measured and gave the following results:—

Total Motion.
First (old) stake198inches.
Second (new) do.123"
Third124"

MOTION OF THE MOULINS.

The old stake had been fixed for 11 days, and its daily motion—which was also that of the moulin—averaged 18 inches a day. Hence the moulins share the general motion of the glacier, and their apparent permanence is not, as has been alleged, a proof of the semi-fluidity of the glacier, but is due to the breaking of the ice as it passes the place of local strain.