If you find any difficulty in sketching the full size pleated tail from which to lay out the pattern for cutting, as explained in last chapter, Figure [3], the following method, while not needed by many, will give you correctness and certainty:
The pleated top should equal one-sixth the distance from top of tail to bottom point, and the widest part, which occurs half way down, should be one and one-third times the width of the top.
Thus a tail 6—0 long would be 3—0 on the front edge and pleat into 1—0 at the top, spreading to 16 inches at the widest part.
Lay out your paper with the longest edge even with the side of the table in front of you, and from the right hand end point F, Figure [5B], mark point E the length of the tail and I half way between. Draw a perpendicular line at E and on it mark G the proportionate distance, and on another perpendicular line at I locate H, Figure [5B]. Halve the line I——H and from its centre 1X rule to F; divide the line 1X——F into seven equal spaces, and mark every alternate point, commencing with the first one, 2X, 4X and 6X, and the points between 3, 5 and 7. At right angles from the line at point 3 mark J, the distance from 3 to 2X, or one space, and repeat at 5 and 7, locating points K and L.
Rule from points J, K and L to 2X, 4X and 6X (dotted lines, Figure [5B]), and from 2X, 4X and 6X draw straight lines to the top parallel with the line E——F.
Rule also from J, K and L to the dotted raking lines and from G to H, and you have a complete outline of the pleated tail from which to plan your pattern, as explained in last chapter.
The right tail joined to festoon C is cut in exactly the same manner as if it were not joined, but was complete in itself.
Lay the pattern on the goods with the side to be joined to the festoon even with the selvage. (See Figure [7]. Dotted lines which show festoon C cut out and the right hand tail marked out for cutting lying together for matching at the selvages.)
To cut irregular festoons it is well at first to make a paper pattern; spread out a paper sufficiently large to contain the full measurements, with the longest side even with the table in front of you (Figure [6]), using the edge of the paper as the line A——B, from which to project the shape of the festoon according to the measurements.
From the right-hand end point B mark X the distance recorded on Festoon A, Figure [5], on your plan, and from X mark point A. Erect a perpendicular line at X as long as twice the distance from X to X, Figure [5], and at right angles to the bottom line.