Put in the entire bottom row of buttons and the first one of the next row (Figure [114A]), forming the triangular pockets, which are stuffed as explained above for biscuit tufting.
The diamond tufting of Figure [115] is made in a slightly different way, but the principle is the same. Rule the cross lines 1——2——3——4 as Figure [115A], line 3, say three inches from the bottom, line 2, six inches above line 3, and line 1 three inches higher again.
Divide lines 1, 2, 3 and 4 into three-inch spaces, as shown on line 1, A——B——C, etc.; rule from B on line 2 to A on line 3, and also to C on line 3; rule from C on line 2 to B and D on line 3, and also from A on line 2 to B on line 3, continuing this until the surface is all marked, as Figure [115A]. This will give you a row of intersecting diagonal lines between lines 2 and 3 and marks the diamonds for buttons by following the intersections.
To measure the space for covering, measure from A to B, to C to D, and so on to G, adding one and a-half inches to the distance between each letter for fullness. Measure from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 in the same way, adding one and a-half inches to each space, so that a panel the size of 115 A, which measures 12 x 18 inches, requires a piece of covering 18 x 27 inches, with an allowance of another inch all around for tacking (20 x 29). Mark the covering, as Figure [115B], which shows the one and a-half inches added to the spaces between the upright lines and also to the spaces between the cross lines.
Put in the first row of buttons and draw the bottom edge of the goods, which lies directly in line with each button, straight down, and tack it temporarily there. This will form a series of pipes all across the bottom; stuff evenly and plumply, and commencing in the centre stuff up all the space between the first row of buttons and the second line; pull the cover down over this by pulling the button mark on the cover down to the button mark on the line, and put in the button, forming the surplus material diagonally from button to button into a pleat, as illustrated (Figure [115A]). Continue this row and the rest in like manner, folding the pleats downward and facing each other in pairs, as indicated by arrows. Finish the top with a row of pipes similar to the bottom, stuff up all the edges and tack them, drawing all the surplus fullness into pleats from each button of the outside rows, and rounding the edges down to the place where finished off by tacking.
Beneath the rail of Figure [113] a short piped valance fills the space to the floor. It is slightly pleated between the pipes, so that the pleats fall into festoon shape, and is also an effective valance for cosey corners and chairs. Mark out on a paper, Figure [116], the exact appearance of a portion of the valance, including two pipes and the space between; erect perpendicular lines A and B through the centre of each pipe, measure the width of the pipes at bottom and top, the length from top to bottom, the distance between D——C at the top and the distance around the curved bottom line between A——B at the bottom, recording the measurements as here shown.
COLONIAL BEDROOM
Take a large piece of paper, and using the longest edge of it as the bottom line A——B, Figure [116A], mark off the distance of the bottom edge of the festoon (1——9); from the centre of this space erect a perpendicular line E——E at right angles to the bottom line, and as long as twice the length of the pipe (2——0); at the top of the perpendicular line rule another horizontal line parallel with the bottom line or the edge of your paper, and with the perpendicular line as your centre, locate points C and D, exactly as on your drawing 116.
With E as your centre and A——B as radii (116 A), strike a half circle to connect A and B; with B as a centre and one-quarter the distance to E as a radius, strike an arc to intersect the half circle and locate point A——1, and repeat at B to locate B——1; rule from B——1 and A——1 to E, from A——1 to C and from B——1 to D, defining the general outline of the festoon-like section between the pipes.