For round elliptic or shaped tops, as Figures [140 and 141], we prefer to cut the awning from the iron itself. Fasten the iron to the floor (as Figure [146]) and then let it lie flat, as dotted line, while you mark out its shape and dimensions on the floor. Raise it again to the perpendicular and fasten it with a cord, as indicated, so that it will stay in an upright position. Measure the distance from A on the dotted line to B on the iron; allow a couple of inches at each end for hems, and cut a length this size.
Try this on the iron and dotted line, and measure the length for the next piece to join to this one. Repeat this until enough are joined to reach around the iron, and commencing in the centre of the iron and dotted line pin and tack the goods smoothly to the shape thus outlined, working all the fullness out to the corners (as Figure [146A]). Mark the line described by your tacks, which have followed the dotted line on your floor, and mark the goods on the edge of the iron all around; allow for seams beyond these marks and cut the surplus away. Turn a half-inch hem around the edge marked on the floor and sew rings to it for the top edge. Cut and scallop a piece long enough to go around the length of the iron and sew this to the edge of the cover where marked on the iron. Lay the scallop and cover face to face and take an ordinary seam, so that when the seam is opened out the raw edges will be on the under side; sew a two-inch band beneath this seam for the iron and patch and rope it as before.
This is the simplest and most certain plan of getting any shape other than square to fit the iron properly.
The foregoing methods apply to all iron-frame awnings where the height equals the projection. It is sometimes required, however, that the projection. be greater than the height, that the necessary shade be obtained and not have the frame so low that it would interfere with ordinary traffic beneath it.
To overcome this difference slides may be used, like Figure [147], which permit the iron to drop to their lower ends, as X—X, dotted bar, when drawing up the awning, and the irons are pushed up and pinned, as illustrated, when the awning is fully extended. Awning covers for irons with slides have a band on the front edge only, as side-bands would prevent the iron from descending the slides. The bottom corner of the awning is held in place by a ring and hook at the top of the slide.
Fig 151 Fig 152 Fig 153
VIEW INSIDE OF VERANDA
| Width | Projection | Feet of Iron | Yds of Duck | Projection | Feet of Iron | Yds of Duck |
| 2-0 | 2-6 | 7 | 3⅜ | 3-0 | 8 | 5⅛ |
| 3-6 | 9 | 5⅔ | 4-0 | 10 | 6¼ | |
| 4-6 | 11 | 7⅛ | 5-0 | 12 | 8 | |
| 2-6 | 2-6 | 7½ | 3⅜ | 3-0 | 8½ | 5⅛ |
| 3-6 | 9½ | 5⅔ | 4-0 | 10½ | 6¼ | |
| 4-6 | 11½ | 7⅛ | 5-0 | 12½ | 8 | |
| 3-0 | 2-6 | 8 | 4½ | 3-0 | 9 | 5¼ |
| 3-6 | 10 | 6 | 4-0 | 11 | 6⅔ | |
| 4-6 | 12 | 7½ | 5-0 | 13 | 10 | |
| 3-6 | 2-6 | 8½ | 4½ | 3-0 | 9½ | 5¼ |
| 3-6 | 10½ | 6¼ | 4-0 | 11½ | 6⅔ | |
| 4-6 | 12½ | 9¼ | 5-0 | 13½ | 10 | |
| 4-0 | 2-6 | 9 | 4½ | 3-0 | 10 | 5½ |
| 3-6 | 11 | 6¼ | 4-0 | 12 | 8 | |
| 4-6 | 13 | 9¾ | 5-0 | 14 | 10½ | |
| 4-6 | 2-6 | 9½ | 4⅔ | 3-0 | 10½ | 5⅔ |
| 3-6 | 11½ | 7⅔ | 4-0 | 12½ | 8 | |
| 4-6 | 13½ | 9¾ | 5-0 | 14½ | 10½ | |
| 5-0 | 2-6 | 10 | 4⅞ | 3-0 | 11 | 6⅞ |
| 3-6 | 12 | 7⅔ | 4-0 | 13 | 8⅔ | |
| 4-6 | 14 | 9¾ | 5-0 | 15 | 10½ |
Figure [148] illustrates another method of obtaining a greater projection than the height by using an extended bracket, the iron throwing up as dotted bar X—X; while dotted bar, Figure [148A], would give greater projection, still on the same bracket, by increasing the length of the bar and lowering the bracket till the straight part of the bar is on a level with the front of the awning.