Cutting and draping

by John W. Stephenson

Figure [18] illustrates another style with French heading, which requires a little more care in calculation and in making. If you have determined the length and depth of the valance, divide the distance into the number of scallops you desire to make, and proceed to mark out the full size of one festoon upon your pattern paper. Use the bottom of your pleats (dotted line A——A in Figure [18]) as a temporary top line, and the distance from centre of pipe to centre of pipe, with about four inches extra as a temporary width, the depth the same as plan calls for, with no allowance extra.

Lay out the bottom line according to the measurement of bottom of scallop, and draw perpendicular lines at A and B to about nine or twelve inches above the line A——A in Figure [18A]. On these mark off the distance from bottom pleat (line A——A) to the top of heading, with as much again for fullness, and rule line E——E, which is the true top of the festoon.

Half way between E and E make a perpendicular cut, C——C, from the top to the line A——A, and from the bottom C draw a horizontal line the length of the measurement of the bottom pleat (in this case 1 foot 2 inches); divide it in the centre and erect a perpendicular line through E——E as a centre guide.

On the line E——E, with F——F as a centre, mark the points of the top of the heading, H and E in Figure [18A], the distance apart that lies between X and X on your sketch (in this case, Figure [18], one foot) and repeat this measurement at D——G one-third the distance from line E——E to line A——A in Figure [18A].

Rule from D to H, G to E, D to C on dotted line, and G to A, as illustrated, and from A to B, fold pattern over on centre line C——C and cut out the other side. Lay pattern on the goods so as to centre the pattern of fabric nicely in the scallop, and cut out as many as required for the valance.

In order to get the pleating shirr or pleat the raking lines G to A and D to C as tightly as possible, so that H H and D D meet together just above the lower C. The pipes between the festoons are cut in a manner similar to the plain pipes in last chapter.

When the pattern is planned out and ruled off for cutting, as there explained, measure down from top point of pattern on centre line one and one-half times the distance represented between the lines H——E and D——G on Figure [18A], and with point of dividers at this point (K, Figure [18B]), and point I, the top of pipe, as a radius, strike an arc equal in length to one and one-half times the radius. Rule from each end of the arc, J——J, toward middle K, till you meet the raking line of each side.

This gives the outline of the pipe, which is joined flat to the festoons on either side, as illustrated, Figure [18C], and formed into a pipe by pinching together the two back edges at L and L.

Should the pleated pipe seem too wide at this point double pleats on each side will obviate any difficulty. The pattern included between the points J J and M on pipe pattern is the size and shape required for the little heading at C——C, Figure [18], and is simply formed into a pipe inverted and sewn in place. This particular style is very effective for bedrooms, made in art ticking, denim, cretonne or taffeta, having a prominent pattern. The sketch shows a slight ripple in the bottom of the scallop, which is not sufficient to interfere with the pattern, and will be greater or less, according to the sag of the pleats, and consequent distance between H and H, Figure [18].

The pipe on the outside is joined to the tail and festoon, as Figure [18C], and is pleated up with the tail to the shape illustrated.